You should run braid like a dipsy.

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But the 40s I use trip fine with mono too.Just adjust them for mono.
Rickerd

 

I think I have run tru-trips incorrectly in the past. I thought the trip mechanism was intended to allow you to ‘trip’ the diver with a quick tug and not have to fight both the fish and diver. I always had the trip arm set kinda tight and would release it from the tow line, then ‘trip’ the diver. (advantage to braid line for this). Even if this is the wrong way to use, they’re still better than a jet because when you want to bring in an outside line, it comes right over the inside lines as long as you ‘trip’ it. This alone is good reason to use tru-trips. I’m getting the feeling they’re capable of much more though

If the trip tension is set correctly, does a tru-trip ‘trip’ on a fish without a lot of false trips? I’m almost embarrassed to even ask this question. If these divers actually trip on most fish, that’s a whole different way to use them than I’ve done in the past. A tripped diver would allow you to easily tell when a fish is on. I’ve been putting a lot of focus this season on being able to run larger spreads with the 3 rods per person the law change.

I my question, I’m speaking of the diver only, not the tow line release, that’s a different conversation.


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I think I have run tru-trips incorrectly in the past. I thought the trip mechanism was intended to allow you to ‘trip’ the diver with a quick tug and not have to fight both the fish and diver. I always had the trip arm set kinda tight and would release it from the tow line, then ‘trip’ the diver. (advantage to braid line for this). Even if this is the wrong way to use, they’re still better than a jet because when you want to bring in an outside line, it comes right over the inside lines as long as you ‘trip’ it. This alone is good reason to use tru-trips. I’m getting the feeling they’re capable of much more though

If the trip tension is set correctly, does a tru-trip ‘trip’ on a fish without a lot of false trips? I’m almost embarrassed to even ask this question. If these divers actually trip on most fish, that’s a whole different way to use them than I’ve done in the past. A tripped diver would allow you to easily tell when a fish is on. I’ve been putting a lot of focus this season on being able to run larger spreads with the 3 rods per person the law change.

I my question, I’m speaking of the diver only, not the tow line release, that’s a different conversation.


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I don't think there is much diff. between a dipsey and tru-trip..they both have the same trip/release mechanism. You have to adjust the tension on the release depending if using mono or braid.I always use braid but sometimes still have to adjust the tension screw-some won't tighten up enough. Let out 30ft and see if it'll trip without swingin for the fence and adjust from there

 

I use tru-trips 40s on my 3 rod down the middle of boat and on mono ,and have a hard time tripping until it gets to about 60' than trips

 

I went out on my local reservoir and spent some time determining the best tension to not come unhinged one their own yet still be trippable with the mono. The right amount of tension is much less than you’d think and way looser than I used in the past. I went to the deep part of my lake and let one back 125 ft and was still able to release with the mono by striking the rod butt. I was using my LiveScope to watch the running depth and they dive true to the published chart. One thing I found very interesting is they do not come to the surface when tripped. They continue to dive at maybe 60-70% of what it was before tripped. One thing I want to be able to do is run two dipsies per side plus a diver/spoon program off big bds when I have 4 on the boat and fishing is slow. You can’t use tru-trips for that because they dive steeper than the #3 dipsy and interfere with the dipsy when you try to send it out the tow line. I just bought a set of jet 30’s for this purpose and maybe I could have used the trutrips without the lever engaged.


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I went out on my local reservoir and spent some time determining the best tension to not come unhinged one their own yet still be trippable with the mono. The right amount of tension is much less than you’d think and way looser than I used in the past. I went to the deep part of my lake and let one back 125 ft and was still able to release with the mono by striking the rod butt. I was using my LiveScope to watch the running depth and they dive true to the published chart. One thing I found very interesting is they do not come to the surface when tripped. They continue to dive at maybe 60-70% of what it was before tripped. One thing I want to be able to do is run two dipsies per side plus a diver/spoon program off big bds when I have 4 on the boat and fishing is slow. You can’t use tru-trips for that because they dive steeper than the #3 dipsy and interfere with the dipsy when you try to send it out the tow line. I just bought a set of jet 30’s for this purpose and maybe I could have used the trutrips without the lever engaged.


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The true trips should not interfere with a #3 dip because it floats until you put tension on the line. Let it out floating until get the desired amount of line out & then hook it to your board. I have never had any trouble doing this

 

I know it would work with inline boards. The issue I was mentioning happens with big boards because you can’t let it float back like you can with an inline board. It starts diving once you start attaching the release. Let’s say you want to run 20 down. The #3 dipsy is 65 back. Now you let the trutruo back 45 and try to send it out. When the trutrip reaches the line with the dipsy, that line might be only 15 down at the point of intersection and the trutrip stalls and won’t go down the tow line. A 30 jet is 85 back to get 20 down and will pass right over the dipsy because at the point of intersection (65 back) the line pulling the jet is only down 16 feet and passes right over. I recently bought a full set of jet 30’s specifically for this ‘mixed spread’. I’m thinking a ‘tripped’ trutrip 40 might be about equivalent to a jet30. I was using the live scope to verify the trutrip actually dives close to the chart since this mono line I switched to feels thick to me. It’s close enough. I was watching what it does when tripped and was surprised when it did not rise very much after tripping it. Another thing I checked out was whether a trutrip would dive to the published depth with a ripstick behind it. Wouldn’t you think this moderately hard pulling stick bait would make the trutrip not dive as deep? That’s what everyone says. At 50 back, the lure ran at 26 down and the diver was around 23. That’s deeper than the published dive curve. Look how much lower the crankbait runs below the diver with only a 7 ft leader. Each block is 5 feet. With a 2 oz snap weight 5 ft in front of the lure, it took 90 back to achieve 25 ft. I think it’s worth a look to see what a bandit does behind a trutrip next time I have time.

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Good technical explanation

 

Hey guys, excuse my ignorance, i'm a decades old fisherman, but relatively new to trolling.
I have opted for the tru trips and i have a question for you all.
How much deeper will a tru trip dive with the ring vs. without the ring?
I finally calibrated my rods yesterday (and broke one in the process) and this came to mind.
Any help will be highly appreciated.

 

True trips do not have a ring (that I'm aware of). Are you referring to dipsys?

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Trutrips are a jet type diver and have no ring. The rings on Dipsys only add a couple feet to the diving depth but increase the separation between the Dipsys appreciably.

 

I stand corrected, these thing are "Slide Divers"
I told you i was ignorant to trolling.

 

Diesel, here are the depth charts. If you received a ring with it, it will be the #2 ring. You have to special order the #3 ring, so you can ignore the third chart. I’ve found they go significantly deeper than this published chart at slower speeds, so make sure you are at least at 2.0 - 2.3 mph. I’m a huge fan of the slide divers and really have them dialed in to the point I went ahead and gave away my dipsy divers. We can take the conversation offline and I’ll help you get set up


https://www.google.com/search?q=sli...diver+depth+chart&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en-us&client=safari#imgrc=zqDpzRN-DPY55M


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I’m also a big fan of slide divers and also did away with dipsys. I don’t see myself going back. I don’t use them as sliders tho. I have a fixed piece of braid on the rear that goes through the release arm, to which a leader is tied. I really like the fact that “shorts” release this diver and I never drag a fish. Also available to assist if needed. Enjoy

 

Here’s a couple good data points in case you want to troll at 1.8 - 1.9. To achieve 25 down at this slower speed, it’s 30 back on 1 setting and 40 back on 5 setting. If you’re not getting bit, error towards shorter leads and make sure you have a screwdriver handy first time. Keep tightening the front tow arm until you get no false release. A quick punch on the rod butt will release it when clearing lines. Don’t break your rod though. Good luck!


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Thanks, dg, i'm heading that way in about an hour. My good friend thats going with me likes to drift fish. We usually get a few down near Walnut and i know he wants to do that. Hopefully i can talk him into going out and troll.......lol.
Are those settings with or without the rings? And thanks again, friend.

 

With rings


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I went out on my local reservoir and spent some time determining the best tension to not come unhinged one their own yet still be trippable with the mono. The right amount of tension is much less than you’d think and way looser than I used in the past. I went to the deep part of my lake and let one back 125 ft and was still able to release with the mono by striking the rod butt. I was using my LiveScope to watch the running depth and they dive true to the published chart. One thing I found very interesting is they do not come to the surface when tripped. They continue to dive at maybe 60-70% of what it was before tripped. One thing I want to be able to do is run two dipsies per side plus a diver/spoon program off big bds when I have 4 on the boat and fishing is slow. You can’t use tru-trips for that because they dive steeper than the #3 dipsy and interfere with the dipsy when you try to send it out the tow line. I just bought a set of jet 30’s for this purpose and maybe I could have used the trutrips without the lever engaged.


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In regards to Tru-Trips running depth after tripped... I watched a video stating that light lures like spoons should be attached to the back hole on the bottom of the diver, harder pulling baits like cranks should be attached to the front hole on the bottom of the diver.
Could that be what affects the depth it runs after tripping?

Also, I have been running them on my trolling rods with mono. They seem to fill the cooler just fine. Any decent size fish that “hits” the lure trips it with mono. If not a tug works to release smaller fish.

 

Run all your baits off the middle hole. They will run better regardless of bait type.

 

If you don't want to do the math as a starting point, you can use old fashioned trolling method.
Put out slide diver with lure and a zero setting on reel, and boat at speed and direction. Know your depth. Release the lever to let line out. Once you strike bottom, note the feet out on counter. That will work for any angle or straight down. Once you know this, Say 50 feet out in 40 fow, that is the ratio you use to get to desired depth with that setting. If you want to get down to 20 feet, you let out 25. There is a bit of SWAG involved if you are fishing deeper east end, but close enough.

Of course if you change direction like go upwind, that might change the depth too. Speed over water and current can affect the length needed.

Rickerd