They say four feet for every ounce and how far in front of the lure effects the vertical swim of the lure

 

Using clip on weights with diving or non-diving lures. The only way to know actually where the baits are running is to let one out with the lure, at 20/20 or 50/50 ,find bottom at the speed/direction you want to troll. (Reason for the line angle in the equation.) The calculation might not give you a true answer. You have to test yourself as your boat speed and direction determine the actual diving depth. Lake currents, boat speed and direction affect the achievable depth. So the difference between a N/S troll will be different than a S/N troll if that makes sense. Once you find bottom, you now have a working knowledge of where bottom is and can determine how to stagger your lines out to cover the water column. You can do this using all 20/20 or 50/50 by using different weights or change up the line out after the 20 for example. If that makes sense. Once you have done it a few times, you will have a good idea on what is required without having to find bottom.

 

simplest way to do that,is use 3 Oz inline.
why?the 3 Oz inline is les effected with speed and current.
simple math,relese line and divide in half,that is where you are trolling,
relese 60' line,and you are 30' down,
it is not important where you at,it is important catching fish,that is reason why you are there.
if you target 30; down,set one line70' back,second 60' back,if is noting happening,change the 70' back to 50' back.
you can use the same weight from west to east astabula.
do not need charts,just remember divide in half.
that is simple fishing.

 

HappySnag are you saying 30' 3oz snap weight then 30' more line = 30' of lure running depth

 

Thanks for the reply guys hopefully more come to consider or add to my tactics happy snap that is simple n I like that any insight to line diameter braid or mono n how bout speed ? I would greatly consider investing in 3 oz thanks again

 

Oh yeah I forgot to get clarity on the weight for snook also I use inlines on my clips n I believe that's what he means so example if my target depth is 40 ft. He's saying double it 40 ft.out Clip 3 oz inline (attached to clip ) another 40 ft out attach board hope I understand n not confusing snook

 

Guess im a little confused snag. Is that 30 foot of line out, a 30z weight, and another 30 foot out to get 30 foot down?
Or just a 3 oz weight before the leader and 30 ft back?

 

60' line from real to 3 oz inline weight give me 30' dept.
you can hook up 6' leader,after inline weight.
if you like to fish 20/20,you release 20' line with lure then clip on 3 oz weight,and then relese 60' more line.it will be 30' down in water.

 

a 3oz weight is more affected by speed on the drop but less affected on the rise. because of it's weight it will sink faster at slower speeds or inside turns etc. the lighter the weight the less affect speed has on it while dropping. it is simple physics. So depending on your speed and what ounce of weight you are using will determine your total depth achieved. Also where the snap weight is placed will also affect the depth due to line angle.

 

you can use what you like.
simplest math calculating the dept is with 3 oz weight,
relese line and divide in 1/2.
simplest way to change dept ,ever 10' more line you are 5' deeper,
10' les line you are 5' higher,
this way you do not need any charts and you know where you at,just from your head,simple fishing.

 

I've held in my thoughts as long as I can. Your using a formula for spinners and applying it to crank baits.
A Reefrunner 800 60' back dives unassisted to 18'. A DHJ 60 back goes 12' deep. A spinner 60' back may be 3' deep. If you think a 3 oz wt magically makes them all go to 30' I must disagree. Also you seem to take no account of speed which makes a lot of difference when weight assisted lures are being discussed.

Weight assisted lure depth is a complex situation. And there no easy, simple or straight forward way around it.

 

yes I am using a formula for spinners at 1.5 MPH,if you go 1MPH or 2 MPH it wil change little,that is not big deferent.
you can not do that with 1 oz or 2 oz,you have to look at chart all time,they make big change from 1 MPH to 2 MPH.
spinners,shalow divers,floters follow the 3 oz very close.
if you target 30' dept, use 1 oz inline and go 1.5 MPH,you have to look at the chart and set the dept.
if you have current agains you,your 1 oz is higher 10' to 15' than what the chart is saying,
the same condition effect 3 oz inline maybe 5',that is much beter ges then 1 oz.
the deep divers 10/10,20/20,30/30 is very close.
the 40/40,50/50,60/60 you relese 10' les line to be on target,if nothing happen you relese 10' les line to be on target.
when you set up 4 rods,you set line release 50',60',70', 80' not to find where is 30' dept but you cover 30' dept,looking for active fish,when you find active fish than you make adjustment with rest of the rods or you steel testing for best bite.
I like your compromise,i am looking for easiest way to fish,simple and injoable not a job.
with this system you do not have to know anything about trolling dept,you start with 20' relese line and every 20 minutes you drop 10' more line,before you cover all water you will catch fish,start on top or on bottom,you do not have to remember anythink only 10' higher or 10' lower the line from real to inline sinker.

 

If you are adjusting and changing, then you will get to the fishes depth sooner or later. But it takes time. I'd rather have a good idea of the depth I'm running and go 3' higher and 3' lower. I think you'd zero in on the fish quicker.

 

I also adjust line to lures. If your running a spinner on one and a deep diver on the other there is quite a bit of difference. I use a chart. Figure how deep i want my lure to run, subtract the depth the lure will run from the depth and then target that depth. I I'm running multiple rods I target in 10 foot increments. One right at depth. Rest above that. As a fish will attack a lure 10 foot above them but never below them.

 

Here is the 50/50 dive chart from Offshore. They have more on the website. It is there for download.I got similar to this 25 years ago with my snap weight kit. I only ever used it with worm harness. I didn't know walleyes would chase a stickbait then.....

Now my question is....do I use 50 feet back to determine how deep my lure is? PT says P10 50 ft back is 8 feet down and 2 oz weight 50 ft from rod tip is aprox 20 ft down...would the P10 be approximately 28 feet down and 100 feet behind the rod tip? Speed being 1.5 mph per PT. Thanks for any input.

 

I would say that would be in the range for that condition but when you turned to that side you'd have to be aware of the fact that it may drop to the bottom if stalled out. Weighted lure have verticle movement with every increase or decrease in speed. That's part of what makes them effective.

 

But its a good start as to knowing where you should be, correct? Thanks for your respected input.

 

Yes

 

Wtf guys.... Set up with a spread if they're up high then focus on the top 1/2 of the water column. Fish go deeper as the day goes on and rise up in the evening to feed. Line counters allow you to duplicate the presentation. Catch a fish and adjust the other rods. If it's morning then keep a few deep, if it's evening keep a few up. A fish will rise up 5' to hit a bait, but it won't dive 2'! Line counters help to go back to where you were. I don't care what line, braid, mono, I guarantee mine run different than yours. I use 65# fireline that is 12# diameter. According to the "experts" on here I should never hook up again, and if I do they will get off... Amazingly in spite of all of this, I still catch tons of fish and usually end up catch and release after the live well is full. Sorry to the normal guys, "rant over"