first check the part of hitch that fit onto ball. you should be able to move it down a little and let it up. check to see if plunger is free. unlikely both wheel cylinders are stuck. you could loosen brake line at hitch and check wheels. what kind of hitch and drums or rotors.

 

No idea what kind of hitch, drum or rotors.... I'll poke around a bit.

 

Sometimes the sleeves get corroded on caliper where it slides which causes them to stick....

 

Your trailer squeaks could be the bushings on the ends of your springs. Soak them with WD-40 and see if the squeaks stop. If so depending on the condition of the bushings you may need nothing more than some grease. The WD-40 will only quiet speaks for a week or so.

 

what about the heat?

 

When I've had brakes drag or stick they get a whole lot hotter than 130.
If the brakes are dragging I'd disassemble and clean, is this a mechanical or hydraulic system?
Mechanical, clean, lube, and check return springs.
Hydraulic, any fluid leaks at cylinders, are there any broken springs on the shoes?
Disc's would check that pistons are releasing.

 

I appreciate the suggestions. I believe they are mechanical but not positive. I think I will ask Shoreland'r for a brake schematic. I haven't gotten in to them yet, soon though.
As far as the squeaking, I'm sure it's coming from the wheels, not the trailer.

 

if you see b

 

You might check the adjustment on the shoes if it's a drum brake set-up. One of the pairs of shoes could be adjusted a little too close to the drum. Are both sides making noise ? Mike

 

Not sure if both sides are squeaking or not. I asked Shoreland'r for some info on the brake system and Dough Clough sent me a ton of info on my trailer. Looks like I need to start taking things apart. I'm sure I will have more questions before this is done.
Al

 

G.lock, they are hydraulic.

 

Are these drum or disc??

 

Drum

 

I'd recommend disassembly to verify that all the hardware is in good condition & also to give the components a good cleaning. Prior to taking things apart spin the hubs to see how tightly the shoes are adjusted to the drums. The adjuster threads should be lubricated with some brake grease or Never Seize prior to reassembly. While the hub is off you can see what tool works best to spin the wheel on the adjuster. After you repack the bearings & install the hub check the adjustment of the shoes. I usually run the shoes out until they start to drag a little bit & then back them off until you hear a light 'swishing' sound as the hub is rotated. You shouldn't feel any appreciable amount of drag when the hub is being spun. There is a measuring tool available to do drum brakes but if you follow this method you'll get the same results. I'd double check your coupler to make sure that the linkage compresses & releases the piston in the master cylinder. Surge brake couplers require some periodic lubrication to work smoothly. Mike

 

Mike, thanks for all the info. I bought this boat in 2013 and have run back and forth to Erie a bunch. I have never repacked the bearings, just shot more grease in them. How long should they last before replacing? Are there any parts that need to be replaced after taking them apart to repack?

 

The bearings will last a long long time if they dont get dirt or water in them. When you check the bearings, if you remove them from the hub you should replace the oil seal...always replace the races with new bearings..my personal preference is to NOT use bearing buddys... alot of people will disagree with me. But in my opinion they have a better chance to leak water than just a good old dust cap..

 

With 4 seasons of use I'd definitely just replace the bearings. I carry a complete hub for my Alumacraft now, but prior to having a new hub assy I always had a repacked set of used bearings w/ races, new seal, cotter pin, & an appropriate size dust cap in my spare parts kit. I repack my bearings annually in my 2 primary fishing boats. I'm a Bearing Buddy guy & my axle is the EZ Lube style, with a grease zerk in the end of the spindle which helps to supply the inner bearing with some fresh grease as well. If you choose to use BB's, be careful not to over grease throughout the season. 2 or 3x throughout the year (only a few pumps) should be adequate . Forcing grease past the seal certainly won't help your braking performance. At my shop I keep a couple of the popular size BB's around to put a shot of fresh grease in my customer's trailer hubs. I jack up every boat that comes through the shop & spin the hubs as well. Trailer bearings are routinely neglected by quite a few boaters. My preference is to service trailer bearing annually & drag around a spare hub that I don't have to use on the side of the road (hopefully). Mike

 

All good advice!

Seems many think if they have BB's that that pretty much eliminates pulling wheels, inspecting or servicing trailer bearings.
BB's are very nice to have but should never be viewed as performing regular yearly maintenance/inspection on bearings.

Carrying an extra,pre-packed hub is a good idea. Much easier/faster/safer to replace the whole pre-packed hub versus taking the time replacing bearings/seals alongside the road.

 

All good advice!

Seems many think if they have BB's that that pretty much eliminates pulling wheels, inspecting or servicing trailer bearings.
BB's are very nice to have but should never be viewed as performing regular yearly maintenance/inspection on bearings.

Carrying an extra,pre-packed hub is a good idea. Much easier/faster/safer to replace the whole pre-packed hub versus taking the time replacing bearings/seals alongside the road.

An extra hub and bearings can save a trip if you're several hours or states from home.