..why a steel-leader? You want to stagger your split shot .. go purchse some 7grams, 8 gram drennan floats... Barrel swivel between your float and your larger split shot that keeping the float up right... It really wont matter whan main line your using but your leader needs to be floro - or super clear mono! No egg sinkers.. all slip shot!

 

"Ok I use a spinning rod with 10 lb cajun line ( love that stuff) I know nothing about fly fishing but may give that a shot next year"

I don't go above 6lb test for ease in casting and controlling the drift. When water clears, I will add a fluorocarbon leader in the same strength.

"Assuming I am fishing the Rocky River with a stick float. How do you guys rig your floats and jigs up?"

You will see various floats being used for steelhead. The stick float is one of the most sensitive, but you can't cast it as far. The alternative is the oblong casting float with the small lead plug on the bottom. Not as sensitive, but you can cast them farther, covering more water. Others use custom Drennan or Thill steelhead floats.

A single jig or hook with minnow, worm, or spawn at the end of the line. Add a split shot if needed to get the bait to the bottom. Float above that to keep your offering from snagging.

"Tie a barrel swivel to my main line. Run a leader down to my jig and tie the jig straight onto the leader line"

I don't use a swivel of any type, since it contributes to making the drift unnatural. I only use a leader when the water is very clear (better than 3' clear visibility) to reduce the number of knots in the line. Less knots = less changes for breakage. I use a mono main line since the line floats along with the current (natural drift) as opposed to others that tend to sink where they're casted (pure fluorocarbon, braids).

"Can I use a steel leader with a snap on the end or does that mess the action of the jig up?"

No steel leader necessary. They don't have the teeth/gill plates that will cut line.

"How long should my leader be past the barrel swivel?"

When using a leader for clear water conditions, I use about a six foot leader of fluorocarbon, tied with a double trilene knot.

"Now if I am using a maggot and a jig do I put anything else on the jig besides the maggot?"

Nope. Just the jig and a few maggots. Keep the jig size small and carry different colors. Some days it's black, others bright colors, others white. I have had days where they would only hit brown or olive.

"Can I put a egg sinker or a split shot on for weight? Do I put this on above the barrel swivel. Does the float go on the line above or below the weight?"

Split shot can be added between the bait and float if needed to get/keep the bait near the bottom. I only use them when necessary. If you must use a swivel, it goes between the float and bait, with weights between the swivel and bait.

If the owner ever overcomes his issue with the server, www.steelhead101.com is a great site to get basic float, fly, and water reading info.

In summary, keep it simple:

Spinning reel with a drag that you can trust. Maximum 6 to 8 lb main line.

Fluorocarbon leader directly tied to main line when clear water conditions.

Long rods work better than short ones, since a better drift is possible by keeping more line out of the water and the length aids in fighting the fish. Choose a rod with a decent backbone so you can keep the fish out of trouble or horse it in for a quick release when desired.

Less is more. Try not to use split shots or swivels and use the smallest float that you can use successfully. When the bite is slower, don't overlook directly fishing the bottom without a float (especially when using minnows).

 

I run 6# fluorocarbon main line and tie it right to the jig. Fluoro isn't needed in stained conditions, but it can't hurt. It has HUGE advantages in clear water, though. If you run heavier main line then a small swivel will make tying the leader easier and it prevents line twist, IMHO. On floats, I use the size that supports the weight I need to get the offering down when the float reaches the 1 or 2 o'clock position, assuming a 3 o'clock cast up river. Rarely do I use more than 4 grams of total weight (including jig) and that's in higher, faster water. Yesterday I used less than two grams and a 2 1/2AA Drennan Pike Bobber with good results when nobody else had luck. The Rocky is a fairly shallow river, which means you don't need a lot of weight to get your offering into the strike zone. It also means the fish are more sensitive to line, and the huge splash made by boat anchor offerings.

 

That's what I like about you guys. Taking the time to lay it all out. In Steel Craniums case, his post took more than just a few minutes. I learned someting as well. Thanks!

 

well i still learning but i use an 8 gram clear bottom float, as steelheader said, i stopped using a swivel, it did not help me once so ever ive had better success with out it, and the line twist is not a factor, but i use 3 small split shots, one directly under the bobber to keep it proped up, and 2 in the middle of the spool, thats basically all i can help with as enough has already been said by steel cranium, ill be going a few days next week if youd like to meet up just shot me a pm.

also i seen the river today, it wasnt much higher then yesterday, but it was pretty muddy, i only went to check it out, bass fished the ponds instead....

 

My Technique Is A Little Different, Because I Have Parkinsons. I Tie 2-3' Of Fluoro To A Barrel Swivel, Then Clip The Barrel To A Snap Swivel W/ The Smallest Cigar-shaped Weighted Bobber Over Everything. Then I Tie The Jig Or Hook For Egg Sacks To The Fluoro. The Thing Is I Can Pre-tie My Jigs, Etc. At Home, Then Wrap Them Around An Old Butt End Of A Rod W/ A Foam Handle For Storage. Parkinsons Doesn't Lend Itself To A Lot Of Tying In The Field. The Bobber Really Helps Me Know My Drift; If It Leans To The Left/right, I Correct It And Catch Fish. I Realize This Is Not Standard, And Sometimes Scares Away Mr. Steelie, But I Went Yesterday And Caught 11, So...

 

"I Realize This Is Not Standard"

Nothing wrong with using a technique that's "not standard". Unless you're doing something that would repel the fish (like using a thick wire leader), the most important thing is using something that provides the confidence that you will catch fish.

That's what I'm going through with the fly rod. I take it out and fish the same holes/runs/tailouts, but routinely outfish it using spinning tackle. It probably has more to do with technique (mending line, casting, good drifts, etc), which breeds confidence once I figure it out. But, I feel better after catching one fish on the fly rod (not sight fishing) than six on the spinning rod.

 

I feel better after catching one fish on the fly rod (not sight fishing) than six on the spinning rod.[/QUOTE]


I would have to agree!

 

I'll take the 6 on the spinning rod

 

Me too....

 

I'll take any and all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I hate being skunked!!!

 

skunked or no skunk...i just like getting out. Fish are secondary

 

"Ok I use a spinning rod with 10 lb cajun line ( love that stuff) I know nothing about fly fishing but may give that a shot next year"

I don't go above 6lb test for ease in casting and controlling the drift. When water clears, I will add a fluorocarbon leader in the same strength.

"Assuming I am fishing the Rocky River with a stick float. How do you guys rig your floats and jigs up?"

You will see various floats being used for steelhead. The stick float is one of the most sensitive, but you can't cast it as far. The alternative is the oblong casting float with the small lead plug on the bottom. Not as sensitive, but you can cast them farther, covering more water. Others use custom Drennan or Thill steelhead floats.

A single jig or hook with minnow, worm, or spawn at the end of the line. Add a split shot if needed to get the bait to the bottom. Float above that to keep your offering from snagging.

"Tie a barrel swivel to my main line. Run a leader down to my jig and tie the jig straight onto the leader line"

I don't use a swivel of any type, since it contributes to making the drift unnatural. I only use a leader when the water is very clear (better than 3' clear visibility) to reduce the number of knots in the line. Less knots = less changes for breakage. I use a mono main line since the line floats along with the current (natural drift) as opposed to others that tend to sink where they're casted (pure fluorocarbon, braids).

"Can I use a steel leader with a snap on the end or does that mess the action of the jig up?"

No steel leader necessary. They don't have the teeth/gill plates that will cut line.

"How long should my leader be past the barrel swivel?"

When using a leader for clear water conditions, I use about a six foot leader of fluorocarbon, tied with a double trilene knot.

"Now if I am using a maggot and a jig do I put anything else on the jig besides the maggot?"

Nope. Just the jig and a few maggots. Keep the jig size small and carry different colors. Some days it's black, others bright colors, others white. I have had days where they would only hit brown or olive.

"Can I put a egg sinker or a split shot on for weight? Do I put this on above the barrel swivel. Does the float go on the line above or below the weight?"

Split shot can be added between the bait and float if needed to get/keep the bait near the bottom. I only use them when necessary. If you must use a swivel, it goes between the float and bait, with weights between the swivel and bait.

If the owner ever overcomes his issue with the server, www.steelhead101.com is a great site to get basic float, fly, and water reading info.

In summary, keep it simple:

Spinning reel with a drag that you can trust. Maximum 6 to 8 lb main line.

Fluorocarbon leader directly tied to main line when clear water conditions.

Long rods work better than short ones, since a better drift is possible by keeping more line out of the water and the length aids in fighting the fish. Choose a rod with a decent backbone so you can keep the fish out of trouble or horse it in for a quick release when desired.

Less is more. Try not to use split shots or swivels and use the smallest float that you can use successfully. When the bite is slower, don't overlook directly fishing the bottom without a float (especially when using minnows).

Thank you this was very informative .

 

Steel Cranium,

Thanks very much for the advice. I will be first-timing in beginning of April and i wrote all of your info down!

Tom