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Floating jig heads

3.4K views 14 replies 9 participants last post by  TClark  
#1 ·
Not sure how to hook a minnow on these...through the lips??
Also, how much weight is recommended on inland lake and how far off the bottom should it be set?

Thanks...never used them before.:)
 
#2 ·
i prefer using lindy floating rigs instead of floating jigheads when using minnows as many of the floating jigheads have a long shank and it never looks good IMO. I tie a #4-6 hook then put a small bead and float 5 inches above that, the entire length is 42" so technically you're getting about that off the bottom. I run the hook under the mouth out the top of the minnow forhead, only hits or bad snags will strip it off. I've had a lot of success with this. To answer your original question though when i use floating jigs they're also 42" off the bottom with a 1/4 or 3/8 oz sinker depending on the drift.
 
#3 ·
I've always used 1 or 2 split shots above the floating jig head any where from 18-24 inches .....it depends how hard the wind is moving you along on your drift on the amount of weight to use .....I always liked the soft body jig heads over the hard bodies.....as for hooking I usually went down through the nose of the minnow but have hooked them both ways .....I always seemed to do better with a lively minnow....good luck I hope this helps you
 
#4 ·
On a larger minnow I always go in the mouth and out through the nostril. It allows the minnow to breathe better so they stay alive longer with more action. Prefer a gumdrop floater over a polystyrene version. Softer and shorter hook shank. Split shot it to keep it down on the drag.
 
#6 · (Edited)
Tips: Try using a tiny barrel swivel at the end of the length of leader you prefer(and the smallest "round"", sliding sinker you can use that will keep everything down on the bottom, on your main line. If using splitshot, DON't Use the ones that are "removable". The little "legs" on those will more easily snag something, or help it to snag/wedge between two rocks or crevasses in decaying stumps-and you to break-off. Always use the "totally round" splitshot-this is especially important when Steelie fishing in rivers! The "removables" don't 'rock and roll' where there's a lot of rocks on the bottom. Not that critical on mud/silt bottoms like in lakes. I assume Tom is referencing floaters for "walleye". I would recommend using a leader to the floater from 12-18" since walleye typically hug the bottom 75% of the time and anything longer might put the floater out of their sight-path, especially in murky or tannin stained waters as our "inland" lakes are prone to. Afterall, the floating jig is for getting the bait up into the feed-zone, not "out of sight".(This does not apply to other species that regularly frequent the areas higher up the water column like crappie.)