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Buying a boat from a private party - What steps are needed?

15K views 22 replies 10 participants last post by  Burks  
#1 ·
I'm going to look at a boat tomorrow. I won't be purchasing it (2 hours away, too expensive to take a truck "just in case") tomorrow though.

If I were to purchase this from a private party, what all needs to be done? It will include motor, boat, and trailer. I've never done this before so I'm totally new to it. Only ever purchased cars from a dealership so I have no experience outside the dealership realm of things.

Thanks for the help. Fingers crossed the boat turns out as nice as the pics!

While I'm at it, what's the best way for both parties to pay for a boat? Cash just seems iffy to me. Money order? We're only talking <$2000 (hope to get it for a little less).
 
#2 ·
Cash, check, bank check, money order, bank transfer, what ever you and the seller agree too.

There should be 2 titles, one for the hull and 1 for the motor, get them both and review the HIN (Hull ID #) and EIN (Engine ID #) and make sure they match. I honestly don't know if the trailer has a title too.


Seller signs them to you when you come to a deal and exchange funds. You take them to the title bureau near you and sign it there in front of the registrar and it get's notarized. (I think the seller has to get their side notarized too now that I think about it). You pay the tax to the county and they print out a new title for you and you drive off. If you need new hull tags then you'll have to go get those too.

I think that's it.
 
#5 ·
Seller can sign the title while being witnessed by any notary...notary fills out their part and puts there stamp on it...then you can go to title office. Makes it easier that way for seller.

Make sure notary has signed and stamped if done that way. I know it's been done other ways...but a legitimate notary won't notarize without witnessing the seller signing.

Don't fill out your part until your at the title offfice...
 
#7 · (Edited)
If the engine is less than 10hp it needs no title. If the boat is less than 14' it needs no title. Trailers have no title and the last registration or a current weight slip is all you need to register it. One word of caution. I always prefer to do the transfer AT the title bureau and I let the registrar "steer" so to speak. ANY mistakes on a title will render it void and you'll have to get a new one. So (and I know this from experience) FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS. LOL

Good luck. Just make sure you get all the stuff you are supposed to have because it is a pain to get it later...

UFM82
 
#9 ·
Even when buying a "package" of boat, motor and trailer get each one itemized on the receipt. The reason is that you pay tax on the boat and motor when you get a new title but you do not have to pay tax on the trailer since there is no title. So, if it's a $2000.00 and the trailer is $500.00 you just saved the tax on that much. If it's all lumped together you pay tax on the whole $2000.00

MC
 
#11 ·
Cash, check, bank check, money order, bank transfer, what ever you and the seller agree too.

There should be 2 titles, one for the hull and 1 for the motor, get them both and review the HIN (Hull ID #) and EIN (Engine ID #) and make sure they match. I honestly don't know if the trailer has a title too.


Seller signs them to you when you come to a deal and exchange funds. You take them to the title bureau near you and sign it there in front of the registrar and it get's notarized. (I think the seller has to get their side notarized too now that I think about it). You pay the tax to the county and they print out a new title for you and you drive off. If you need new hull tags then you'll have to go get those too.

I think that's it.

Don't forget you'll need a license plate for the trailer (or temporary tag), and there SHOULD be a Title for the trailer, too, if it's in Ohio. Otherwise, you have to get a weight slip and do a "Homemade" Title creation. Make sure the trailer ball size is the same as your hitch, AND, the lights have the same connector as your tow vehicle. If the boat doesn't have tie-downs, make sure you have those with you.

Good luck.
 
#14 · (Edited)
Ok so here is the "problem" after viewing the boat. It looks good, and I'm very interested in it. Worst case is if I don't use it much, I'm out a little under $2k, or whatever I sell it for less than what I bought it.

The boat sits at the owners father's house, which is 2 hours west of me. The owner lives a hour east of me (follow me here?). The father is using the boat since the son is busy moving and stuff. The son has the title.

The father said he could write me a bill of sale, pay him, and then meet with the son to transfer the titles (boat/motor) to me.

Does this sound legit? Can it be done at ANY title/registration place? The family is fairly well off (all new vehicles and such) so I doubt they'd stiff me, but you never know.

Edit: Instead of making a new topic and wasting space, might as well ask here. When the guy was trimming the motor to show me that everything works (and it does), I noticed the transom flexes. How much is allowed, if any? It's fiberglass with only a small piece of what looks to be aluminum over top (looks like it's more for protecting the rim of the fiberglass). Although that aluminum is cracked, the fiberglass is not from what I can see. Any issues here? The guy just had it out fishing last week, and I'd agree since it still had water in the live well. Guess he forgot to drain it.
 
#16 ·
Ok so here is the "problem" after viewing the boat. It looks good, and I'm very interested in it. Worst case is if I don't use it much, I'm out a little under $2k, or whatever I sell it for less than what I bought it.

The boat sits at the owners father's house, which is 2 hours west of me. The owner lives a hour east of me (follow me here?). The father is using the boat since the son is busy moving and stuff. The son has the title.

The father said he could write me a bill of sale, pay him, and then meet with the son to transfer the titles (boat/motor) to me.

Does this sound legit? Can it be done at ANY title/registration place? The family is fairly well off (all new vehicles and such) so I doubt they'd stiff me, but you never know.

Edit: Instead of making a new topic and wasting space, might as well ask here. When the guy was trimming the motor to show me that everything works (and it does), I noticed the transom flexes. How much is allowed, if any? It's fiberglass with only a small piece of what looks to be aluminum over top (looks like it's more for protecting the rim of the fiberglass). Although that aluminum is cracked, the fiberglass is not from what I can see. Any issues here? The guy just had it out fishing last week, and I'd agree since it still had water in the live well. Guess he forgot to drain it.
3rd party is what we used buying my fiance's honda,but we gave him a deposit til the dad had the notorized title in hand.It was local as well.The owner had her dad put it in the paper and he did the showing since he's pretty much retired.He let us test drive it.Looked it over real good and decided to buy it.His daughter had the title through honda credit union,so she had to get the title,notorize it,and let her dad do the rest.I'll bet the dad gave her the money up front to get the title then she payed him back. They were all fairly loaded and it all turned out great.It was missing 1 remote key for it and they called a week later and let me pick it up at her old dad's house.

I do know quite a few families that would fight over the money if they went that 3rd party family route.Money does some weird things to people.

Not sure about the transom.Every time I looked at a used boat,I always carried a big screwdriver and loosened up the drain plug on the lowerunit to see what the lube looks like. Water comes out first or lube looks milky,then problems.Could be as simple as an O ring or 2 or could be major like gears eaten up.
 
#17 ·
Beware...Not sure exactly what you mean when you say "the transom flexes"...but fiberglass transoms are not made to flex. If the aluminum trim is cracked...chances are water has gotten in and the wood in the transom is rotting....NOT GOOD

What make and year of boat is it? Obviously for $2K it must be older.
I sent you a PM with additional information.
 
#18 ·
Burks, you should be able to trim the engine up and stand on the lower unit without seeing flex. If it flexed just from trimming up the motor it is toast, or will be soon after you have it. $2,000 may not be a king's ransom but it's a chunk of change in my world. That boat will need work if the transom flexes, period. And you do not want to go there. Even if you can do the work yourself a transom job is very labor intensive and expensive. if you have to have it done, the cost will be more than the boat is worth. It's just conjecture on my part as I haven't seen the boat but anything like that makes me cringe. If the transom flexes chances are the stringers are also tired and then it just goes on from there...

UFM82
 
#21 ·
Well I ended up buying the boat today. Got it for way less than $2000. Got it home and its just the aluminum that's cracked. Looks like it had something dropped on it as it was dented. The fiberglass is not cracked or deformed at all. I think the motor is just flat out too big. Its an all fiberglass.construction from what I've found, 1977 Monark bass boat 15'2". Has a 115hp evinrude but I found the Max HP rating to be 90. And I measured the flex, my eyes played tricks on me. 0.25" at most.

Looked everything over and its just dirty is all. Some little wiring needs fixed and she needs q good spring cleaning. They had it all fueled up and ready to fish in case I backed out, so they trusted it greatly.

Guess I was just exaggerating the flexing. Probably going to sell this monster motor or trade for a smaller one. 8mph limit.....115hp.....overkill much?