I'd find another dealership. That's ridiculous.

 

Regular brake fluids absorb moisture which can wreak havoc on seals over an extended period of time. Newer silicon brake fluids do not absorb moisture and last a lot longer but you need to make sure your vehicles components are compatible. All my classic cars have been swapped to silicon because they sit for extended periods of time. If it is your daily driver it is not a bad idea to flush the stock fluid, but I would consult your mechanic for his advice.

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As to eating the inside of the physical lines themselves, that is a bunch of bull. Additionally, your vehicle only has 12k miles and I would only consider flushing it when I would be doing a brake job (ie. In like 30-50k).

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Your brake fluid should be good to at least 50k, but flushing/refilling at your brake service is not a bad idea. I too would find another dealer !!

 

I work on another brand of vehicle. But it is recommended to have the fluid changed every two years. Its not because the fluid becomes corrosive like they tell you. Its because the fluid breaks down with time not milage. Yes they were trying to take your money by the explaination. Unless your vehicle was built in late 2011 you are OK. The fluid will still be OK for awhile even after that. If you plan on driving like race car your fluid has a higher potential for boiling.

promag

 

Thx for the info.... this is my everyday driving vehicle. Im kinda PO'd that my (trusted dealer) is trying to snake me for $100 for something i dont need. YET.. thank's again for everybody's. Input.. JON.



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If any Nissan employees would care to Pm me about this, Please feel free, thx Jon

 

Thx for the info.... this is my everyday driving vehicle. Im kinda PO'd that my (trusted dealer) is trying to snake me for $100 for something i dont need. YET.. thank's again for everybody's. Input.. JON.



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What's your drivers manual say?

 

AllData says your brake fluid should be changed every 30K.

 

about once a year ill replace my fluid... it can not only boil, and absorb moisture, but it can crystallize too..its cheap to replace...

 

Dealers let these outside vendors come in and sell them on the importance of flushes (BG/ Castle etc..) Now the dealer has a bunch of flush machines that these vendors pawned off on them, so now they gotta sell flushes wich means the vendors product. They have to sell so many or they will loose the machines etc... The vendors get a cut, the dealer gets a cut, everyone is happy. Just go by your manufacturers recommendations and you wont have any problems. What these guys are saying about brake fluid is all very true. I like the 2 year 30K mile routine whichever comes first.

 

about once a year ill replace my fluid... it can not only boil, and absorb moisture, but it can crystallize too..its cheap to replace...

Brake fluid does absorb moisture and it can boil but getting it to boil is almost impossible. DOT 2 boils at 374 Degrees, DOT 3 401, DOT 4 446 and DOT 5 boils at 500 degrees. The brake lines that are being used today are far superior to what they used to use so the absorbing moisture through the lines and the lines rusting is becoming a thing of the past, but moisture can still get in over time through the rubber flex hoses. Unless the fluid is extremley dark in color or smells funny I wouldnt worry about flushing the whole system. You can always do it yourself and a friend by bleeding the brakes at each wheel until you have clean clear fluid in the master cylinder and the repeat at each wheel until you have clear fluid coming from all 4 bleeders. Dont let the master cylinder run dry though if you do it this way or it can damage the seals inside the master cylinder.

As a general rule of thumb that some mechanics use, brake fluid should be changed every 1 to 2 years under non racing conditions.

 

First of all a brake system is a closed system and does not absorb water. And its not corrosive either. And like motor oil, it will never break down unless it gets contaminated some how. Which doesn't happen in a closed system. Was a professional mechanic for 40 years. Not once Have i ever flushed and changed brake fluid. Not with out some one dumping something wrong into the master cylinder.
That being said it wouldn't hurt to do it if you feel its needed. Then a gain even your rear end grease wouldn't hurt. But few do that either.

 

Feel the need to reply : I've owned 5 cars in my life with a combined 800,000+ miles. I've only performed 2 brake fluid changes. One in the 198,700 miles Malibu because I replaced the brake calipers. And The most recent acquisition was a 2001 Xterra 4x4 because it's a 4x4. I don't know where it had been or if water entered the line while 4 wheeling.
Not once had my brakes ever failed me.
I will say that the brakes fluid on both vehicles did go from a sort of dark oil to a lighter oil. So perhaps it was starting to break down.
I drive hard and I drive fast. More importantly, I break hard and late. So far so good!

Drew on his S4

LMB: PB: 13"
Crappie: PB: 9"

 

Yes about every vehicle i have owned had over 200,000 miles when i got rid of it. Actually had a Chevy with over 400,000 Frame ended up going. Had cars since 1971 and have never changed any brake fluid. Just added when it was needed. And a closed system like brakes or an air condition receives no out side contamination unless you add it.

 

As others have said, every few years. I change it on my motorcycles a little more often, in fact I'll be doing it on my 08 Kawasaki Concours 14 when I bring her out of hibernation soon.

I'll usually use a siphon and suck out most of the master cylinder first and put fresh fluid in. Then bleed the other calipers or wheel cylinders starting with the furthest from the master cylinder first (passenger rear).

 

Yes about every vehicle i have owned had over 200,000 miles when i got rid of it. Actually had a Chevy with over 400,000 Frame ended up going. Had cars since 1971 and have never changed any brake fluid. Just added when it was needed. And a closed system like brakes or an air condition receives no out side contamination unless you add it.

Moisture can and does enter the brake system. It isnt a fully closed system like the A/C is. The rubber gasket on the lids can go bad, crack or tear and allow moisture into the system. The main culprits for allowing moisture into the brake system are the rubber flex hoses that attatch to the calipers and the copper washer that goes on the banjo bolt that goes into the caliper being over tightened and crushing the washer. If you can find moisture escaping the brake system ( Find a leak ) then moisture will enter the system. Its very rare to see on a vehicle that has been properly maintained, but its not impossible for it to happen.

 

Moisture can and does enter the brake system. It isnt a fully closed system like the A/C is. The rubber gasket on the lids can go bad, crack or tear and allow moisture into the system. The main culprits for allowing moisture into the brake system are the rubber flex hoses that attatch to the calipers and the copper washer that goes on the banjo bolt that goes into the caliper being over tightened and crushing the washer. If you can find moisture escaping the brake system ( Find a leak ) then moisture will enter the system. Its very rare to see on a vehicle that has been properly maintained, but its not impossible for it to happen.

Now your talking a different subject. Poor maintenance causing a leaking system. I agree that a master cylinder can be a spot for something to enter. At that spot everything is pushed through. But when a line brakes it pushes out not in. So by simple bleeding you remove all air. And i see no way for moisture to develop unless the lines have set empty for years. In all my years never seen damage from moisture inside a break line. Never seen a line good on theout side and rusty inside. Have you! And i have replaced thousands.