Very nicely done from scratch. From past experience, this is what I've found out about copper. I have made some blade blanks for the blade mold I have in copper. The copper finished blade bait has more vibration than brass, plated steel or stainless steel because copper is lighter. The only problem I did find was that I used soft copper and it had a tendency to bend easily and get nicked up, which then lost its ability to vibrate after repetitive use. So then I went to full hard copper. It then helped tremendously, but copper is still soft. Painting the copper blades with candy powder paints, polishing or sanding the blade gave some really nice visual effects. One last thing I found that really works well. 6061 T6 alloy aluminum. Aluminum is very light and this alloy is very hard. I had the profile cut on a laser, because you can not cut this aluminum with tin snips without distorting the shape. The vibration was very impressive Good luck on your design and let me know how it works.

 

Thanks for the info Cadman. Great stuff!
Being a big fan of blades I've always wanted to try making some from scratch just to see if it could be done. I will be trying a few more and playing around with brass as well. There are already some things I want to change on this first one. For instance, the hole in the tail needs to be moved down so it doesn't allow the hook to swing above the lure on the drop.
Here is a general idea as to how I went about making this first one. I used a block of hard nylon in a vice to make the lead cavity impresion. So I guess I did use a "mold" just not in the traditional sense. It would be easier to just go out and buy some Vibees, but I like messing around with stuff. I'm already thinking about a rattle blade???

 

My 2nd attempt has the hook holes more where I wanted them. This one is about 3/8oz. I am planning on rigging them with double frog hooks but don't have any on hand. That way there is no split ring. They don't work too well on blade baits.

 

My 3rd try weighs about 1/4 oz. and looks a bit more like a blade bait. I'm not sure how the action is going to be on these with the front hook so far forward??? If nothing else I'm hoping for some kind of kick or thump thump on the retrieve and a nice fast flutter on the drop.

 

Very nice craftsmanship. How long doe it take you to make one from start to finish?

 

Thanks Cadman! The last one took me probably 20-30 min. from start to finish.

 

I just find it very fascinating that someone can make the entire bait from scratch. It's very impressive that you have the patience to do that. I have patience but I like everything perfect and that is my down fall. I'm my own worst critic. When you get chance I would like to see some painted up.

 

Here are a couple that I shot a bit of red on. I have made a dozen or so of these now all with slight differences in shapes and weights. Hopefully it will give me some idea as to what works better than the other.

 

Another one.

 

nice!!!!! keep up the great work. i just recently started making my own bladebaits,tried them my last trip out last fall and they seemed to do great,they outfished nitros,vibes,and sonars. i showed my dad some of spoons you made and it wasnt much longer after he was going to the hardware store getting copper piping haha. your baits look great!

 

ALL EYES,you're not gonna have but one problem! The ice to get on & try 'em out! Go get 'em!!!! Those look like they will be "REAL tasty"! -----sonar.......

 

Thanks! It's been fun experimenting with them. Here is permanent marker paint job on my latest one.

 

Very nicely done from scratch. From past experience, this is what I've found out about copper. I have made some blade blanks for the blade mold I have in copper. The copper finished blade bait has more vibration than brass, plated steel or stainless steel because copper is lighter. The only problem I did find was that I used soft copper and it had a tendency to bend easily and get nicked up, which then lost its ability to vibrate after repetitive use. So then I went to full hard copper. It then helped tremendously, but copper is still soft. Painting the copper blades with candy powder paints, polishing or sanding the blade gave some really nice visual effects. One last thing I found that really works well. 6061 T6 alloy aluminum. Aluminum is very light and this alloy is very hard. I had the profile cut on a laser, because you can not cut this aluminum with tin snips without distorting the shape. The vibration was very impressive Good luck on your design and let me know how it works.

COM'ON! YOU HAVE A LASER???? HOW DO I COMPETE ? NEXT YOU WILL TELL US YOU HAVE AN AIR BOAT!LOL !! just re-read the lines,and picked that one out.PLS. ,Take no offense of my comments! How'bout that All Eyes guy ? He's really going to town isn't he?I think he will do just fine!! Later!-------sonar........

 

Thanks! It's been fun experimenting with them. Here is permanent marker paint job on my latest one.

The colors look really good.

COM'ON! YOU HAVE A LASER???? HOW DO I COMPETE ? NEXT YOU WILL TELL US YOU HAVE AN AIR BOAT!LOL !! just re-read the lines,and picked that one out.PLS. ,Take no offense of my comments! How'bout that All Eyes guy ? He's really going to town isn't he?I think he will do just fine!! Later!-------sonar........

I wish I had a laser you know what I can do if I had one. The company I work for has a laser. It will cut steel, aluminum, stainless steel, brass and copper. I am a sheet metal programmer and designer, so I can draw up my own profiles, program the part and then have one of my friends cut the part for me on our laser. Having access to a laser gives me all kind of company perks, that carry over into my fishing world.

 

All our blessings! I believe GOD was a fisherman!! I,too am able to do some "special aps." at work , at least for about another year or so........ then I'm on my own,well, me & the Mrs. then look out! anything might happen! But you are right those colors on All Eyes stuff,on that copper base are very candy colored , and blend together quite well! good job!!!! -----sonar.....

 

All a bit different than the other. I should get a good idea as to what works best action-wise when I get around to "field testing" these.

 

Alleyes
You stick to manufacturing/design and let a qualified field tester try them out (like myself)..
Nice work...

 

Thanks Mike and you got a deal ! All you have to do is learn me them Atwood Ninja Giant Saugeye catchin skills and you can be my official field tester.
(qualifying saugeye must be at least 9 inches long)
I'll even throw in one of my top secret new lure designs that's guaranteed to catch white bass and/or snag bottom within seconds.

 

I was ready to go to work for ya ..Until YOU HAD TO GO THERE
(qualifying saugeye must be 9 inches long)..

Look I'm a very hard worker.. Big and better is not everything.
I'm a very dependable,consistent catching 9 inch saugeye guy.
References available upon request .
Please reconsider my offer.

 

Mike, if you are serious about consistantly catching 9" saugeye on Atwood, I'm afraid you may be over qualified. I have all but given up down there (at least until late May)
Don't wanna brag, but after Mothers Day last year I developed a strategy that broke the 10 inch Atwood saugeye mark twice! If I hit an even foot, he's going on the wall.

 

Those are really looking good. I think you should find your time and efforts were well spent.

 

Here are some that I powder coated, painted and cleared. A bit crude yet, but I am still learning the whole powder coat thing.

 

Here are some that I powder coated, painted and cleared. A bit crude yet, but I am still learning the whole powder coat thing.

Very nice. What I found works really well, since we're so limited with what we can do with powder paint is to use electrical vinyl tape and pin striping tape. You can make kill spots, lateral lines, gills and even perch stripes. All you need is a good master and an exacto knife and cut it out. Once on, you can clear coat it and it will look beautiful. Just some food for thought.

 

Excellent tip! I will give it a try. Pretty new at paints and coatings yet and really appreciate the help and any info you have. Obviously you have done this a time or two. Your finishes look great!
I started powder coating some of my spoons last year and found that I only liked it on the rattle spoons I was making due to the thickness it was adding. The rattle spoons are more rounded and so it didn't matter to me. (see pic)
I like my jigging spoons to be very thin so they cut through the water and fall faster. Even after compensating with more weight I wasn't satisfied with the action. Now with a better heat source I have learned to apply powder paint very thin so I thought I'd try it on my blades.
Again, Thanks for your help.

 

Here are my latest blades and spoons that I powder coated thanks to some tips from Cadman.