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Winterizing a Johnson 150 OceanPro 2-stroke I/O boat engine for freezing temperatures.

1.4K views 12 replies 11 participants last post by  Tommybouy  
#1 ·
I need to know what I need to do to my boat for winterizing. I have owned an I/O for 6or7 years and took it in to dealer. Do i need to do anyhing for my Johnson 150 oceanpro. 2 stroke. Pulled all electronics yesterday. I am not worried with mid 20's but I see temps this weekend at night projected at mid teens which makes me nervous. Thanks for any imput.
Don
 
#3 ·
Your inboard engine, you need to open the petcocks on the sides of the block and take off upper hoses, pour antifreeze in them and push the water out, also the hoses to the exhaust manifolds until it runs out the drive. Some people run them in a tank with antifreeze but that's kinda costly. Pour it in the thermostat hose also. Don't cheat ;) Then close the petcocks and put some more in to lay in the block. The 50/50 is okay for this part.

Someone might add to this.
You can also ask Hardwork.
 
#5 · (Edited by Moderator)
I need to know what I need to do to my boat for winterizing. I have owned an I/O for 6or7 years and took it in to dealer. Do i need to do anyhing for my Johnson 150 oceanpro. 2 stroke. Pulled all electronics yesterday. I am not worried with mid 20's but I see temps this weekend at night projected at mid teens which makes me nervous. Thanks for any imput.
Don
Is advice for an I/O what the pastor is looking for here??
 
#6 ·
I am sorry that I didn't make myself clear this morning. The I/O is sold. The new boat is an outbaord, Johnson 150 Oceanpro 2 stroke. I did call Buckeye Sporting goods this morning and they said the OB wasn't as critical to get winterized as I/O was. He told me to put trim all the way down and I did. When it warms up, before i remove the batteries I might try to fog out the engine which I have been reading about. Sorry for my confusing post. Fishers of Men you I met you at shines after the hogfest when you were moving your boat to 72nd. I saw it docked there the 2 times i Put in at 72nd in Oct.
 
#7 ·
Don- I'd suggest reading the storage section of your owner's manual for winterization. A real basic few things you need to do are put stabilizer in the fuel (sta-bil is commonly available) and run the engine for a few minutes to circulate it (you can hit the air intake with a little fogging oil at the end of this if you like), do a general cleaning, and lubricate all metal points with a corrosion protectant. Depending on where it's going to be stored, you may want to hook up a hose with flush attachment from a bucket/container of antifreeze, and let it draw the antifreeze mixture through the cooling system (see it squirt out the back).After that I'd pull the plugs and inject a SMALL amount of 2cycle oil down each cylinder, and then turn the engine over a couple times (spark plug wires unattached/grounded) to coat internals with oil. Change the engine and gear oil
 
#9 ·
OOPS! Sorry there Pastordon! I saw I/O and then had a "senior moment"! Outboards are even easier. I did my 150 & 9.9 mercs in about 25 minutes. There's even video on outboard winterizing on youtube. Although, Rizzman is on his way to your rescue.
 
#10 ·
with any OB motor all u really need to concentrate on is draining the lower unit & replacing with fresh gear oil,,,,then pull the spark plugs, spray some fogging oil in each cylinder & the plugs, then turn the motor over to lubricate the cyl walls.........your done baby!! alot of fellas will drain any fuel left in the carbs.
add some fuel stabilizer to your gas tank too.
 
#11 ·
I watched the video on winterizing and it was pretty good, especially since the boat they were doing was the same as mine but mine has a Merc instead of a Volvo.

One thing In noticed was that they were drawing the antifreeze up through the impeller through the ear muffs and then calling it done. I like to take the main hose from the thermostat and the two to the exhaust manifolds off, hold them above the level of the motor and fill with antifreeze. I fill the big hose until liquid runs out the thermostat housing then I fill the exhaust manifold ones until it runs out the exhaust.

I guess this makes sure the motor is topped off. I've never done it the other way but I also have not had any trouble doing it the way I do it.
 
#13 ·
IMHO Fogging & changing lubes are most important while leaving the motor tilted in the downward most position w/o harming the skeg is important.

I run a Johnson 150 and a 15 johnson and I winterize both. Im uncertain of the year engine you use. Both outboards on my boat are 2001 and have a fitting the same as a bicycle intertube. OMC makes a fogger can with a hose and screw-fitting that connects to the threaded outboard fitting for easy connecting / fogging.

Changing lubes will push out the old lube and moisture in the old lube from a season's use. New lube will prevent moisture freezing in the lower unit.

Fogging; Simply run your motor while injecting the fogging oil until the motors choke out. You may want to try starting and fogging a 2nd time to assure the motor has a good dose but if you see a lot of smoke and the engine is choking hard you can be comfortable the motor is fogged properly. 1 can of fogger will fog both my main engine and kicker. Check your outboard for this fitting and you can fog in 15 - 20 minutes. Gander Mountain has a fogger with this same fitting that is $10 less than the OMC brand. Good Luck.