For us the crank bite is usually may-end of june,early july. Then harnesses. But i learned last year NEVER UNDERESTIMATE THE POWER OF THE WORM. Last year touraments werr won in late aprilearly may on worms.

 

Exactly as saugeye fisher said, we were trolling cranks as soon as we could and generally switched to harnesses as the water temp got up in the mid 60s, but I will be prepped to pull whatever anytime I go out...

As far as I gear I use the diawa 17 line counters, they're small and manageable for the small water trolling you'll do around here.
As far as rods, I stole a tip from Saugmon who trolls indian very successfully and bought some 8.5' salmon/steelhead rods. They have great backbone and a sensative enough tip to see the smallest of cranks and see when there is debris and leaves on the crank.

Bottom bouncing I use a cpl of sensative bait casters on the cheaper side of life

 

See that's weird bc I started fishing harnesses early last year and had good success. Pretty decent all year actually just had to vary speed. So when you are trolling cranks early what kind of speed are you using. I'm sure slower and speed up as the water warms. And what kind of leads should I use? Again I am brand new to all this and I am just trying to soak in whatever I can

 

This is going to be the Year of the Worm for me.. Had guys on here last year saying give up the worm once temps get 60deg.... Crank or live bait, get it in front of a fish and odds are it's going to bite.

Cranks are typically run 2+mph. Spinner rigs, much slower but I think only because people are usually using bottom bouncers and when you speed up, you can't keep em down. I think if you drug spinners behind say offshore tadpoles, you could run them at much faster speeds and still be effective. Check out Jim Stedkes mid winter threads in the Erir forum.. Much of that info translates to trolling inland bodies of water as well.

 

No expert by any means as last year was the first year I really got into it. Most things I've seen/read imply cranks in spring/fall and harnesses in summer but don't think that anything in fishing is really hard and fast rule. Some things that helped me out quite a bit was a book I picked up at the Library called The Art of Trolling by Ken Schultz. It goes over all the basics. I ended up finding a copy of it on amazon for a buck or two to have as a reference. Also, the Jim Stedke thread mentioned in above reply is really good...
Jim Stedke's thread is Intended for the big lake but many of the principles apply to inland as well.

If you plan on doing a lot of crankbait trolling the Precision Trolling App for smartphone is pretty good as it gives you depths for different lead lengths for many popular crank baits (as well as tadpoles and inline diver, dipsy's etc..). For crank baits depth is really only dependent on lead length and line as speed doesn't really play a role. For weights, speed plays a role... See link here That info coupled with some line counter reels makes sure you are getting your baits to the depth you want. Be sure to check that 50 ft on your line counter reel is actually 50 ft of line, etc... Some reels can get a little off and that also depends on line and amount you have spooled on

On the waters I fished I found that many of the same tactics for eyes worked pretty well for crappies also. This turned out to be nice since I had kids with me a lot of the time I was out so it kept them occupied.

Good luck.

 

Thanks kfi I started reading jome thread and it does have a lot of good Info so far. I have the free trolling app but it is very limited. I have thought about upgrading but it is quite pricy. I will look into that book for sure. Keep the info coming guys!!

 

If your looking to build a trolling set up I'd suggest that all rods and reels be the exact same. Unless you throw in dipsey's....

I was in the same boat last year and found Tackle Haven on the Web for my trolling combo's. They have package deals (4 combo's) for $160 if I remember right. They are Okuma's which will get you started, not the best, but I haven't had any problems with any I've owned.....

 

Also Navionics has an app for your smart phone that you can add way points and look at structure while bored at work....

 

Dont have much to add info wise, just came here to say I used to think trolling was a joke; who wants to put-put around the lake all day watching a rod holder? I used to rip on the "Trollers" all the time...

Then Derek (93Stratosfishinski) took me out for an all-day troll session, let me tell you I had a BLAST! Watching those rods load up (with a fish on) is just about as exciting as getting a jig blasted on the drop! Not to mention productivity-wise trolling really just can't be beat for some of our Lakes/Reservoirs. I mean we've gone out numerous times and caught dozens of fish while most every other boat we've talked to is lucky to have 3 or 4 (casting).

And worms? blah, Wipers don't want no worm

 

I have the free trolling app but it is very limited. I have thought about upgrading but it is quite pricy.

Yea app is free but you can buy info on just individual baits for $1.99 per bait so if you have a few favorite cranks you can get the dive curve info on those without breaking the bank.

While the Cabela's branded trolling combos (Trollmaster) are definitely not top shelf they served me well (bought x4). Watch for sales I think I got the 4 I have for 59.99 a piece. The real nice thing is that Cabela's will stand behind them and replace them no questions asked for a year. I broke the rods on two of them (trying to free up snags) and I took them in and was able to replace with a new one at no cost. The cabelas branded ones are made by Okuma.

 

Water in the mid 60's for me. Usually at the end of the white bass run is when I start trolling.

I don't troll harness's.The Indian Saugeye loved the flickershads last year. I trolled them identical to the bombers and bandits. 3 mph!Into the wind,with wind,during the turns,3 mph is the key.
No leaders. 30# rated spiderwire with a swivel tied on it.Match the size/mnodel of crank to bump bottom.

Rods: 8.5' medium action salmon rods as my flat lines.Combining that super sensitive salmon rod with superbraids,you'll see and feel every little tick that the crank puts out.

Board rods: Any broken salmon rod,trolling rod,board rod,etc.These are whippier rods with less feel.The realeases of the boards kills all sensitivity to the rod so whippier ones will suffice.

From what I heard on worm harness's, Early in season and get blades that spin with the slightest of speeds.

 

Guys i totaly dis agree about erie and inland trolling being the same,maybe aylt a place like cj brown. But not for saugeye around here. ItsCOMPLETELY different. And trust me ive done TONS of both. Lake erie style trolling will get you skunked,lol or maybe a ski or to at alum,hoover,ect.

 

Yeah I'm with bobby. Heck we were trolling up eyes with flicker shad in 3/5fow in the middle of august, and I'm sure the erie guys were pulling harnesses for suspended eyes in 30/60fow

 

3 mph!Into the wind,with wind,during the turns,3 mph is the key.

I trolled up quite a few wipers, and saugeye last year, pulling flicker shad. And as saugmon mentioned, 3 mph!!!

 

Guys i totaly dis agree about erie and inland trolling being the same,maybe aylt a place like cj brown. But not for saugeye around here. ItsCOMPLETELY different. And trust me ive done TONS of both. Lake erie style trolling will get you skunked,lol or maybe a ski or to at alum,hoover,ect.

I've not done much of either (inland vs erie) but what I'm saying is the Stedke thread has tons of good info that you can apply to inland for newbies... Examples: discussion on spreads to help avoid tangles, tons of info on lead lengths for different situations, how much weight and at what speed to get to certain depths, etc..

I agree if ya try erie setups with boards, etc during summer on busy inland lake you'll have some excitement but not from catching fish..... You'll be hooked up with jet ski or another boat real quick.

 

My question to the seasoned inland trollers on lakes with tons of contour change (i.e. Alum, Hoover, etc...) is how do you keep your baits (cranks) in the depth zone you are trying to fish? If you try and follow a contour on lakes like that you'd do nothing but turn. Do you target points at say 10-12' and just make sure your baits are in contact when crossing the points knowing that you'll soon be back out in 20+ FOW. That was one of the riddles I was trying to solve last year...

Second question is realistically how much can you use the planer boards inland without getting too close for comfort with other boats/jet skis? With work and kid duties I'm usually only able to get out occasional nights and weekends and most of the time seems to busy to comfortably use boards... I assume you inland guys only set narrow spreads or maybe just board to one side of boat to keep things a little less chaotic?

 

This is great, kfi great questions!! And saugmon I was really hoping you would chime in. I followed a lot of your trolling threads last year and it seems like you have it down to a science! You and others are what got me very interested in trolling this year. You mentioned get the bait down where they are ticking bottom? How do you figure it out? I assume on shallower areas/lakes it wouldn't be to hard just let line out until it starts ticking then put the board on. But what about deeper water? Is it the same concept? Do you have to add weight? I know some of these questions are stupid for you seasoned guys but the first time I touched boards was when thy arrived in the mail last week!

And others feel free to ask questions here too! We could turn his into our own midwinter thread for inland lakes.

 

i dont typically use boards on any lakes, deep or shallow. i can flatline troll 4 rods comfortably without tangles. You have to make sure your baits are running straight, flicker shad are some of the worst for this. Alot of them take some plier tweaking to get to run straight. Also make sure you check them after a snag or a decent fish.

on shallow lakes let out just enough line to be ticking bottom, not digging non stop

as far as the alum trolling, i would mostly try and run flat across the points..Depth charts and experience will tell you how much line you need to let out to hit on top of the points. Ontop of points there are eyes and bass, and in the deep areas in between are crappie and accident musky

 

And here is another quick question, does anyone use reef runners or husky jerk type baits for trolling inland? I know they use them a ton on the big water and the hj's get thrown a lot casting although that is usually a cast and pause type deal. Just looking for ideas on what to add to the arsenal besides flicker shad. Think I'm going to add bandits and bombers so far and I am also considering hot-N-tots as well.

 

technician - excellent idea in starting this thread... Lots of knowledgable people on here doing the inland lake trolling thing.

Regarding baits I had a fair amount of success with the shad raps also. In general it seemed like I did better with jointed baits then the non-jointed ones. They just seem to have better wobble/action.

As I said earlier, last season was first for me owning a boat and the boat I bought was setup for trolling so I figured I better try to learn some of the techniques. Boat was setup with downriggers and let me tell you I'm glad no one was around the first time I tried using the riggers inland at a fairly deep lake. Probably within first five minutes I had one of the cannonballs hung up and the fight was on..... Long story short I learned that down riggers have very limited use in our central ohio inland lakes. But, was able to get some good use out of them down south (Dale Hollow). Mid-day on a 90 deg day was catching suspended bass & trout in 120 fow suspended between 60' - 90' on spoons. Hope to give the riggers a go this year up in Michigan.

I have a lot of shallow running cranks and one thing I think I'm going to try this year is running some of them behind offshore tadpole weights to get them down a bit further with shorter leads. I plan on trying to run these back maybe 6' from the weight. Can also use those to get your worm setups down. Their website gives you dive curves for them.

As fishnski says above you want to make sure the baits are running straight. Had several tangles due to not paying attention to that detail.

 

Question for the worm harness guys.. When pulling those behind relatively heavy bottom bouncers how do you know when you have a little panfish or small eye on? Do you just check lines regularly regardless? Also any tips for keeping the smaller worm nibblers away? The little bit I tried harnesses seemed like I was finding lots of small panfish. Is that just part of the deal when using harnesses?

That was why I ended up using cranks a lot more.

 

Dont have much to add info wise, just came here to say I used to think trolling was a joke; who wants to put-put around the lake all day watching a rod holder? I used to rip on the "Trollers" all the time...

Then Derek (93Stratosfishinski) took me out for an all-day troll session, let me tell you I had a BLAST! Watching those rods load up (with a fish on) is just about as exciting as getting a jig blasted on the drop! Not to mention productivity-wise trolling really just can't be beat for some of our Lakes/Reservoirs. I mean we've gone out numerous times and caught dozens of fish while most every other boat we've talked to is lucky to have 3 or 4 (casting).

And worms? blah, Wipers don't want no worm

Yeah, I forgot to say "while fishing alum or griggs" I'm not as big on the wipers as you guys are though.. I'd rather catch something I can sink my teeth into! That said, I need to catch a carp and a wiper for a taste test challenge this year sometime. Maybe musky but I already know those are tasty Not monsters obviously if I'm going to take it for the table.

 

i dont typically use boards on any lakes, deep or shallow. i can flatline troll 4 rods comfortably without tangles. You have to make sure your baits are running straight, flicker shad are some of the worst for this. Alot of them take some plier tweaking to get to run straight. Also make sure you check them after a snag or a decent fish.

on shallow lakes let out just enough line to be ticking bottom, not digging non stop

as far as the alum trolling, i would mostly try and run flat across the points..Depth charts and experience will tell you how much line you need to let out to hit on top of the points. Ontop of points there are eyes and bass, and in the deep areas in between are crappie and accident musky

So you are saying your boat doesn't spook the fish.. Cause I think thats why most guys run boards cause they think they are pushing the fish out to the sides.. And of course to run more lines, like trying to run 6. And I would agree I haven't found it necessary but I've also caught fish on the boards when I did run em so. I like throwing one out to the shore side to hit that really shallow water.. Alum makes me nervous when it shallows up cause there's all kind of crap under the water... Including big boulders and whole rear ends from old farm vehicles.... Yeah.

An idea to keep the small ones off: Gulp. I had tons of hits and caught a few on it last year on the limited times I used it. I wasn't fishing it right at first either. I had it on a single hook instead of a double and kept getting short strikes I think. Or maybe the little guys were biting that too, they just can't tear em off. But yeah, checking you have bait is number one after a snag or bite cause I don't think I've ever caught a fish on a bare hook... Even those 200 pond bluegill/bass days. If there isn't a sliver of something edible on the hook you are wasting your time.

 

So you are saying your boat doesn't spook the fish.. Cause I think thats why most guys run boards cause they think they are pushing the fish out to the sides.. And of course to run more lines, like trying to run 6. And I would agree I haven't found it necessary but I've also caught fish on the boards when I did run em so. I like throwing one out to the shore side to hit that really shallow water.. Alum makes me nervous when it shallows up cause there's all kind of crap under the water... Including big boulders and whole rear ends from old farm vehicles.... Yeah.

Boat traffic draws saugeye. I pulled the largest last year (26")out of the wake of a tuber just before sunrise.the pleasurecrafts start early at Indian.usually my numbers are better on the weekends than during the week.

If the bite is slow,a crank right behind the boat in the propwash usually gets the most action.You'll want this one to dive deeper than your flat lines and you raise your rod tip straight vertical so you can get out enough yardage to match the flat lines.Bomber B04,Bandit 200 series,and 7 cm Flickers work well in my propwash setup.

Boards: I use them if I have an extra rider. Sometimes I'll run 1 when solo just to shake things up. You gotta change tactics from time to time during the slow bites. Usually early morning and during the week.They are a nightmare on shallow snag infested water. They allow us to use more rods.Sometimes the eyes prefer the planer rigs,sometimes they just want the flat lines.It's just another presentation in my arsenal.

Saugeye group up in certain areas,and sometimes group up in quality. Once you catch a good one or a double,you wanna waypoint it and pound it.Don't forget that spot and pound it throughout the trip.Most of the feeding frenzies are short.It's like I find a spot with 2-4 eyes and then it dies. Either pound it for a while or hit another spot. Wait another 30-60 mins and you'll get some more out of that waypoint.Hit it again and you get some more.A day later,you won't see much but they'll be close to that hot waypoint.

I've seen hot spots like these yield up easy limits just by hitting them 2-5 times in the morning.That durecho that went thru a few yrs ago,we had 0 keepers by 7 p.m.By 8 p.m.,we had 8 in the boat,lost a few, plus lost the biggest eye of that year.That is how fast and furious the saugeye bite can get if you're at the right place and at the right time.

The last couple yrs have been slow,so I waypoint just about anything that hits the rods, LOL!!

Someone mentioned the flickers not working well after a few fish.Usually the eye screw loosens up.Tighten it should track true again.I swapped out a few of them til I figured out the eye screw kept coming loose.

 

Try using jet divers ahead of your harnesses or shallow cranks , they are the most true depth accessory on the market . Jets come in 10,20,30 & 40 foot sizes , each can be short lined to achieve the depth desired and they aren't effected by speed changes as inline weights are. Have used them from Erie to Buckeye and caught literally hundreds of walleye/saugeyes on them with no negative issues. Dragonfly1