I stuck this thread because pinning is and has became a big part of Steelheading.
Please refrain this sticky to only questions and answers. Thanks and good luck to you this season.

 

Ok. I have the outfit and most of the terminal tackle. (i think) please describe a basic rig. Also, when you are drifting, do you mend the line like fly fishing or do you just let lt it float? Also, what kind of maintenance do i need dto do on this reel? thanks

 

A basic rig for a centerpin starts with your main line. In steelhead alley I primarily use a 10 pound main line spooled up. 12 pound would also be fine. Depending on your float choice you have a few different methods of attaching the float to the line.

1. A Drennan style has caps that you slide onto your line, then you slip the antenna and stem of the float through these caps.

2. A slip float can be used. Rig it up with your slip knot/bead just like you would a crappie setup on a spinning rod.

3. A weighted float with the lead plug in the bottom. These are commonly used for panfishing. These floats are styrofoam and typically have an orange top.

Once you have attached your float to your main line, the next item is a swivel. I use micro swivels. After you attach the swivel to your main line, then you would select a florocarbon leader. I use a leader lighter then the main line. If I get a snag or a fish breaks me off, I don't loose my float, but rather the line breaks at the weakest point. That being the lighter leader. 4lb leader in clear water. 6-8 lb leader in other water conditions. Leader length that I use is typically 3'-6' depending on water clarity.

Then you can tie your presentation to the end of the leader. If that is a hook for spawn sacks, or if you decide to tie on a fly.

Lastly I put a shot pattern onto the leader. Some put it on the main line, but I haven't ever had issues with putting shot onto the leader. The shot that I use is the style that doesn't have the wings. These wings, the ones we typically bite to open the shot causes issues with the leader getting snagged and hung up around the wings. They make shot that looks like BB's and have no wings.

The most common shot pattern that I use is called the shirt button pattern. I start about 6-12" below the float with a split shot. I then stagger smaller shot down the line. Once you get the hang of it, you will know how many shot to put on to balance out the float. I try and keep the shot 12-18" away from the presentation.

The split shot allows you to get your presentation down to the fish and stay down. When fishing in the river current, not all of the water column is flowing at the same rate.

So you are standing at your spot, you think it is about 5' deep. Set your float at about 6' deep and make your first cast upstream. If you snag up quickly, then begin making your float shallower 6" at a time. Cast up stream. So on and so forth until you can get a drift that doesn't snag the bottom. If you are not fishing towards the bottom, your catch rate is greatly reduced. If you don't snag up at 6' then maybe the hole is deeper then you thought. Go 6" deeper until you snag. Then reverse until you dial in the depth. I like to fish 6"-12" off bottom as a start.

In regards to mending you line, it is recommended that you mend your line just like a fly fisherman does. The downstream loop eventually catches up with the float. Once this happens, the float begins moving faster downstream then the actual current. The float begins getting pulled downstream by this loop. If the float is moving faster then your presentation, then your presentation begins getting pulled up off the bottom and out of the strike zone. Longer rods help with keeping line off the water, and assist with this loop. In smaller streams where casting very far isn't needed, the longer rod allows you to keep all the line off the water.

When casting, as soon as the float his the water you can give a little wrist flick to mend the line upstream. The longer that monofilament sits in the water the more difficult it is to mend upstream.

Maintenance of a centerpin is minimal. If you don't dunk the reel in the river, you should have very little problems. If for some reason you get some grinding, you may have to dunk it. Many times there is some small dirt that gets behind the spool and backplate. Some reels allow for an easy removal of the spool. You can remove the spool streamside, dunk the backplace, and your back in business.

If I have had no problems with the reel during my trip, I leave it be. If during cold weather or dirt issues I get some grinding, I will take the spool off at home, and with a rag wipe the backplate and spool areas. You can also use sewing machine oil on the centerpin shaft, and if you have unsealed bearings a drop of oil on them should be fine.

Where the reel starts getting gummed up is when you land a fish, and your reel lays in the stream water. As you are shuffeling your feet around with your fish, you are kicking up silt that inevitably gets into your reel. At that point, all you can do is try and swish around your reel in some clean water.

-KSU

 

do you have a secret pattern for the shot you use or can ya use a buch of weight with a slip weight attachment?

 

Here is a link to some shotting patterns:

http://www.raventackle.com/Shotting Patterns.pdf

Split shot size conversion chart:

http://www.questoutdoors.net/gear/articles/shot-size-conversion/

 

Here is a link to some shotting patterns:

http://www.raventackle.com/Shotting Patterns.pdf

Split shot size conversion chart:

http://www.questoutdoors.net/gear/articles/shot-size-conversion/

can you tell me why the need to put all that on your line? it seems to me just bunching up some med size shot would work just fine vs putting all that on your line?

 

Gotta put in my .02.The shot helps get your resrntation down fast and to aid in the tracking of the float.remember the current is faster on top than the bottom.also i recommend learning the modified wallis cast.i started off with the side cast but that line will eventually twist ruining the day.i know!also the pull cast is easy to master.

Outdoor Hub mobile, the outdoor information engine

 

can you tell me why the need to put all that on your line? it seems to me just bunching up some med size shot would work just fine vs putting all that on your line?

A more even distribution of weight on your line, also helps for making smoother casts. Try casting with bunches of weight high and low with big gaps of line in between the float and presentation....wind-knots and tangles galore.

To add: Pinning is not for everyone and I feel many people get into it for the wrong reasons. They see a pinner on the streams smackin' down fish left and right and think "Wow! it must be that centerpin outfit". Wrong! I would highly recommend mastering, or at least gaining confidence, with the proper methods of "drift" fishing using a noodle rod and spinning outfit. Before running out and buying that "magical" centerpin. Then, like KSU mentioned, one can make a smoother more natural transition into pinning and appreciate it a whole lot more. And theres nothing wrong with the side cast when you get started until you feel you are ready to move on to pull casting. This ALL said, it helps to fish with someone that is a well established drift fisherman....you will learn the most that way, as long as you are attentive and receptive to learn.

 

what kind of line is used for the backing?

 

Dacron line

 

I'm new to pinning and I'm getting it down thanks to you guys on here! The question is on my Aventa I don't think I'm understanding the reason for the clicker some guys told me its just there for show that you turn it on when you hook a fish to make the drag sound other guys told me not to turn it on that its just for storage. One other question is when you set the hook do you palm it and set or just push with your fingers and set thanks a lot guys!

Gillie

 

Clicker was originally intended as a way to put a brake on the spool so that it would not spin during transport to and from the river. Leave the brake off while you are driving down the road and see what happens if the spool isn't sitting up against something. You will have a nice bird nest.

While I have seen some flip it on during the process of fighting a fish, that isn't the original intended use. It is not a drag system it is a brake for transport.

 

This center pin information is very interesting and helpful to me. I've fly fished for fifty years and am quite a good caster yet I can't get the damn center pin setup to cast two feet. It's pretty embarrassing! Sometimes I wonder if the reel is a contributor to my problem. I bought it on Ebay, new, from a tackle company in England. They call it a "Center pin Trotting Reel" but I'm thinking that is just a name for the type of long drift fishing that they do. My reel is called a Cyprinus Monarch and it looks and acts like a pin reel. It is 4 1/4" diameter, has two handle knobs, a clicker, and spins freely for about 70 seconds which seems quite adequate to me.

My problem is when I go out in the back yard, or on the river, to practice the line never seems to pay out counterclockwise from the underside of the reel (like how it comes off of a fly reel) as I attempt to perform the Wallis cast the line comes off of the side of the reel as there is a little gap between the reel foot and the spool of about 3/32". When this happens the line invariably gets hung up around one, or both, of the wooden reel knobs. I know I spooled it correctly with 100 yards of backing and then a braided line specifically developed for center pinning, another 145 yards.

I wish I lived near someone who pinned so they could see my setup and give me a few pointers. When I practice cast all I have on are two Raven micro swivels, a float and one, or two, BB's. Do you think I might not have enough weight on to build up enough inertia to pull the line forward and make the spool start to spin? Any comments will be most appreciated. Anyone who might need some fly tying or fly fishing help can PM me.

 

Centerpin casting can be a challenge in the beginning. Once you get it down pat, it will be like riding a bike.

#1. During practice you more weight on the end of your line. If you release your hand from putting a break on the spool, the spool should spin and line should roll off. The more weight the easier it is to practice casting.

#2. The line is likely getting tangled around your reel handles because you have your left hand too close to the reel. With your left hand you pinch the line with your index and forefinger, then quickly turn that into a circle that the line passes through. Think of it as an extra guide.

From easy to difficult, I think it goes:

1. Side Cast
2. Spinning Side Cast
3. Wallace Cast

Some say skip everything and go straight to the Wallace, but when just learning in general on casting, line twist is the least of your worries. The motion is what you are working on.

 

i fish with quite a bit more weight than you are describing and that still doesn't have enough momentum to over come the inertia of the spool being at rest, the best tip i have gotten is that you have to use your free hand to get the spool spinning before you cast. so you pull the line with your left hand to get the spool spinning and a split second later you throw your rig out with the rod in your right hand. once you get the timing down i think you'll find more success.

 

Thanks fellas! I'm kind of thinking the weight, or lack there of, might be my problem especially since I'm a newbie to centerpin casting. I can throw a WF#7 fly line 60' with just one false cast but can't get this damn thing to spin HaHa.

As soon as there is some decent weather down in my neck of the woods I'm going to get out there with the outfit and add a couple 3/0 shot to my leader to see if the added weight gets the spool to start to spin and pay out line when I try to cast. I can say one thing though about my reel spools ability to rotate easily; if I have just one Drennan type float on and two BB's and if I lift the rod to about the 11:00 position and let go of the spool just the mere weight of the float and the BB's causes the spool to turn and release line so I'm thiking the reel isn't the culprit it's the dope holding it.

 

It is the weight, match the float to the type of water your pinning. The trick is to get the reel to spin out without tangling and use the side cast, wait for enough line to spin out then cast out (someone correct me if that's a wrong statement) when casting out both arms are moving at the same time the hand that pulled the line is following the casting arm as a guide for the line to spool out without tangling. Then ya got to apply the break on the spooling reel when the float hits the water.

I've been on youtube search for centerpin fishing you'll see a bunch of videos there will be casting ones that are helpful. Nothing beats practicing on the water and then hook a fish by accident.

I'm still learning maybe we need a pinning conclave somewhere on one of the rivers I still have questions about set up.

 

OK I'm really making an effort to learn the pinning, while others around me are picking up chrome I refuse to use my fly rod. He's the question are the fish getting spooked from the float, fishing in knee deep or less water, using the raven fs floats the short and fat ones, got about 4 feet of line below the float, position above the fish. I believe the presentation is ahead of the float, using about 4 feet of line below the float, 2 fly setup. Fishing fast water, making sure the float is at current speed or less.

Am I doing anything wrong?? Or they taking and I'm just missing the indication they took the fly because the set up is floating towards them.

 

I assume you are then doing the technique called trotting. This is when you feather the reel as it spins. Feathering being you are slowing it down momentarily as the current takes your presentation down the stream.

In knee deep water, using a 4' leader seems to be a bit too long. I also would say that for me personally, the centerpin is more effective on stretches of water that are deeper then knee deep. It is quite a bit more challenging to fish the quick shallow water with a pin for sure.

 

In knee deep water, using a 4' leader seems to be a bit too long. I also would say that for me personally, the centerpin is more effective on stretches of water that are deeper then knee deep. It is quite a bit more challenging to fish the quick shallow water with a pin for sure.

I like a challenge, can the pin be successful enough in knee deep faster water, or should I go back to my fly rod, or shorten up the leader???

 

I think the fly rod is more effective in those areas personally.

 

Thanks for the reply I'm just addicted to the pin fishing especially on the fight the chrome got all that spring energy and you got'em on with no drag. I'll mess around some more on the short water got a few on have not landed any just want to make sure I got the right rig I'll shorten up the leader.

 

If you're knee deep in water, as Ben said; 4 feet is too long IMHO.

I would still keep those flies above the bottom unless you're purposely trying to bottom bounce. I would also do a 'check' several times if the water is really fast making you're float in front of your presentation. That's where pulling (checking) the float would come in handy.

You can also use slinkies and just bottom bounce if you have good current. I guess you can bottom bounce like you are but I think your baits are under the fish...hence no strikes.

 

I'm interested how many switch back to a fly rod in knee deep fast water. Do you have the same amount of hook ups on a pin or a fly rod in this condition.

 

Yes. Sometimes you have to shorten your leader. Heck you could throw on an indicator and fish it just like a fly rod. There's 100% no point of using an indicator on a fly rod anyway unless you just like to use a fly rod. Oh, and if you like shorter drag free drifts!

When you get better at casting you can cast a pin with no weight (or very little) using a wallis cast.