just watched some U TUBE flim on how to repair a transom. if your handy and got time it,s possible. on mine it looks like you can pull the aluminim cap and dig it out. try and save everything, to make a template .

 

A Lund that size has at least a 150 hanging off of it, right? I've been a carpenter my whole life and pretty good at tackling uncommon projects like this but for $1600 I would feel a whole lot better having a professional boat repair guy replace transom than doing it myself for a third of that and all the time involved. If it were holding a bunch less HP and torque I might feel different but with all those ponies hanging off the back I'd leave it to the pros, and warranties are kind of nice too. Just my opinion.

 

I would look into it a little more before I do it yourself. Lunds were notorious for having transom and floor issues for several years. I believe it was from late 90's to mid 2000's. You may be available for some warranty work. If you are on Facebook, join the "Lund boat owners" group and post your problem there. There has been a lot of discussion in the past about transoms and floors rotting and needing replaced.
I have a 1999 Lund Fisherman and it looks like the previous owner replaced some of the floor and I have another weak spot that needs replaced.

ski

 

I replaced one on my old 18' starcraft for less than $300. it was actually pretty easy on that boat, and I epoxy coated the new transom. If the lund has a transom cap on it, I would think its a doable home project.

 

You might run into a bunch of fasteners all protruding into the transom area from other braces and gussets, for the $ id let the pro's do it.. My Lund has a lifetime on it for me.

 

I made my own for a 17' Sea Nymph, but only 55HP ... there were a few bolts and such in the area, maybe a couple dozen holes, but nothing that bad if you're reasonably handy and have some decent tools ...You could probably get a lam beam for $100-150 that would be plenty strong, they hold up houses, that's probably basically all the factory stuff is ... pro's doing it would be nice but I'm thinking there will be some other expenses above and beyond ...

 

I have a 200 optimax and a Mercury 15 hp kicker on it. It is not nearly as much as a money issue but the fact that the "pros" obviously did a shitty job to begin with and if I do it there will be no short cuts taken!! On the other hand it is something I have never done so it is a bit intimidating! LOL

 

Id do it myself, if you have the time. I used good wood and west systems, better than new

 

From all the research I have done unless you are the original owner Lund will not help you out . Plus then I believe the transom warranty was only good for 10 yrs. Does the pros give you a warranty? I am not sure!

 

When I had issues with the transom on my Lund they offered to buy the wood for me.... I cried and moaned but that's all they would do. They did go to a lifetime warranty around 2010 or so and changed the way the transom's were built and the materials they used, but as stated above, they will only honor it if you are the original owner.
I have seen prices from 1500 to 3000 for the transom repair. There's ton's of info to be found online in regards to doing it yourself, if your so inclined.

 

wow never new lund had a transom problem my 1993 pro V seems to still be solid.

 

It all depends on how its taken care of, keep it dry and you should never have a problem.

 

Pm sent

 

From like 1998 - 2006 a bad problem!!

 

I would like to thank everyone for their help on this!! As soon as I decide which way I am going to go I let everyone know!! Thanks again, Goose

 

LOL I get you, but the working guys really know what they are doing, they are just stuck with building these things new per the design and materials the engineers and designers supplied them with. My point is simply that these guys do this stuff day in and day out and are better suited with both experience and equipment. Just like auto repair, I can put a new clutch in my daughters Jeep, but I dropped it off at the repair shop today instead. Not worth my time for one, and not worth me overlooking one simple step that the guy that does it daily would never miss. I put a new front end on my truck motor in 1979 and five cents worth of Lock-Tite I didn't know I needed on one bolt cost me $1500 and a night stranded in the desert.

I have no idea your situation, but if I was a much younger man with the extra time on my hands, given the trade I work in I'm sure I would attempt the replacement myself. I'm just older, busier, and wiser now and my opinions are formulated accordingly.

 

I do appreciate your advise. I have a decent facility to do this job in plus there are a few other upgrades I am going to do once I get it apart. I am going to replace all the bilge pumps livewell lines. I plan to sand and repaint the transom when completed. So I apologise if I sounded like a smarty pants but I plan on keeping this boat for a long time and I am very ocd about doing things right it will drive me crazy worring if they used the right sealant if they sealed the weep holes properly ect. So for my own peace of mind I should probably tackle this myself. Again sorry if come off like a smart arse.

 

No apologies necessary, you did not come across as a smartass at all. This is your thread and I did not want you to think I was overly attempting to discourage you from doing this work, just letting you know why I'm more hesitant these days. Good luck and enjoy the rebuild.

 

We did a 20' Alaskan. It was pretty easy. Like others said we used penetrating epoxy and west systems. Better than new. I was pissed at Lund for the cheap ass wood they used! And even more pissed at one of our site sponsor dealerships for not standing behind it after it was purchased. Apparently their 1000 point super inspection doesn't look at transom!!!

 

I just built an all aluminum transom to replace the wood in my StarCraft. have a 120 hanging on it works great! Just another option to think about.

 

I have a 2007 Lund Pro Sport had a 400lb 90 hp merc and a 9.9 on back for 10 years now stored outside boat used often and no transom saver no problem at all transom is still solid so are the floors. Its also been trailered from port Clinton to olcott ny and erie and pyma often Again no issues at all with transom.

 

The problem years was from 1999-2006 from what I have been reading apparently they realized that there was a problem and corrected it. If you Google Lund transom there are tons of bad transoms almost all fall in the 1999-2006 slot. I am glad they figured it out because I love everything about my Lund just wish I had done this research before I purchased one in the bad years. Oh well soon it will be good to go!

 

I just had the transom and floor replaced in my 2004 2025 ProV this spring. Much bigger job than I wanted to take on.

 

Bet that set you back a couple hundred bucks LOL. Sorry to hear man! Sucks.

 

I have done 3 of them on Lunds and several others on other brands. Lund transoms tended to fail because they had a poor seal on the trim cap and encapsulated the bottom of the wood in flotation foam. It was a problem from the early 90's until Genmar sold Lund to Brunswick and they redesigned the way in which the transom, transom cap, and floatation foam went together. $1600 is actually a pretty good quote given the amount of work involved. However it is critical to resin the wood, remove any foam that is in contact with the transom wood in order to give any water a channel to drain to the bilge and reseal with a flexible sealant all of the trim caps, and hardware. Send me a pm with a phone number, I have sources for all of the materials. Material cost for a 1995 17 ft. fisherman was around $500 total including all new hardware, wood, resin etc. The complete job from motor unhanging to finished and on the water took right around 75 man hours.

 

I have done 3 of them on Lunds and several others on other brands. Lund transoms tended to fail because they had a poor seal on the trim cap and encapsulated the bottom of the wood in flotation foam. It was a problem from the early 90's until Genmar sold Lund to Brunswick and they redesigned the way in which the transom, transom cap, and floatation foam went together. $1600 is actually a pretty good quote given the amount of work involved. However it is critical to resin the wood, remove any foam that is in contact with the transom wood in order to give any water a channel to drain to the bilge and reseal with a flexible sealant all of the trim caps, and hardware. Send me a pm with a phone number, I have sources for all of the materials. Material cost for a 1995 17 ft. fisherman was around $500 total including all new hardware, wood, resin etc. The complete job from motor unhanging to finished and on the water took right around 75 man hours.[

Mine has rotted out. I have a 21’ Baron magnum what information do you have that you could give me to help me out? Any information at this point would be a big help. Thanks in advance. 704-791-8324

 

I would like to thank everyone for all the help and support I am going to do this myself with the help of a couple buddies. I will show pictures of project before during and after.

 

Should be an enjoyable project and it sounds like steelneyes2 can offer you some valuable insight which I would sure take advantage of. Looking forward to the pictorial of the rebuild.

This is one of the most productive threads I've read in a long while and is clearly getting the attention of fellow Lund owners.

 

If you are using any plywood I highly recommend a product called CPES carried by the rot doctor. I use it on every project and the results are excellent. It is a penetrating epoxy that you soak all wooden components prior to installing. It is worth every penny! It also saves you from buying "marine grade" plywood. Marine plywood is a generic term that gets abused often. A little more effort now will make your repairs last for decades
http://www.rotdoctor.com/products/cpes.html

 

Sincere question... I have a Lund that falls in those years,, How can I tell if the transom on my boat is bad ? .....What do I look for ?

 

There are a couple of signs to look for.

An easy first check is to trim the motor all the way up and then grab it near the siege and Physically move the motor up and down. Watch in the area where the motor is mounted at the top of the transom. If the transom moves back and forth you have a problem. The amount of movement can provide at least a rough estimation of how big of a problem you have. There should be no movement

 

Skeg, not the siege, auto correct is not my friend