so you just want A/P on the kicker? Why replace a working system. I had A/P on my Parker main and used a tie bar to my kicker and trolled all day. I had all Garmin equiptment with remote did more than I ever needed.

 

I tried the Reactor 40 Kicker on a Merc 15 horse...
MAJOR FAIL!!!
Went through 2 of the units...both failed miserably.

First of all, the steering mechanism inside of the shaft is just a small plastic piece that stripped out on both of the units that I installed.
Second of all, Garmin WOULD NOT stand behind the warranty...they said it is only warrantied if you install it on one of the engines listed on their "approved" engine list...I installed it on a Merc 15 carb'd engine and only the 15 EFI is on the list!

Check Google for an "update" for their "oversteer issue" and how the controller is working too much.

Here is a pic of the plastic gizmo in the steering tube...

Here is a short video of my rant...

If you get one...good luck!

 

Erie, your feedback is exactly what I was looking for. I’m very appreciative. The truth is I really want to do what wajski describes but was trying to save a buck. Since I have cable steering, I either need to upgrade to hydraulic steering or go with an octopus drive. I have no feedback cable steering and really like it. You lose the ‘no feedback’ aspect when you try to run a cable steer AP and I doubt I’d like that setup even though it supports a rudder sensor which tends to make autopilots work really well. Seastar makes a really clean kicker tie that uses a cable steering mechanism to link the kicker instead of a bar. I think having both rudders operating in tandem would be helpful. There is a really good image of that kicker tie setup on wallydog’s boat in the ‘Cleveland on Christmas’ Lake Erie thread. If I’m going to go the route of main AP with kicker tie, I want that seastar kicker tie setup if I do this. My winter project will be to upgrade my main steering to hydraulic which is first step towards what I really want. I’ll continue to use the TR1 as kludgy as it is in the meantime.

It’s a shame Garmin did not leverage the little hydro pump used to control the kicker and just swap out the electronics for their reactor/kicker product. That would have been a nice solution that could have possibly provided an upgrade path for current TR1.



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Wow. I watched your video. Garmin set you up. You provided pictures helping them possibly certify another motor and they used that information to deny a 100% legitimate warranty claim. It’s shameful they used the compatibility chart which is really meant for the throttle control and used that to imply a 15hp motor that’s ‘not on the list’ caused the failure. Same situation as a car manufacturer attempting to not warrant a wheel hub failure because the car did not have OEM tires. Garmin needs to be careful because they had a reputation of standing behind their products and practices like this will tarnish that reputation.


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My winter project of upgrading to an autopilot on the main with tied in kicker is finished.

I had cable steer, so installed hydraulic steering with tilt helm. Lesson learned: if you already have a tilt helm, you can probably just buy a non tilt hydraulic helm. The 18 year old tilt mechanism on the cable steer was the exact same as the new tilt mechanism. ($200 wasted)

I installed the seastar cable tie. This is a slick, kinda expensive tie bar, but I won’t fall overboard attaching it. It DOES limit the range of the main a few degrees when engaged due to limitations in the kicker’s range. Biggest issue with this is my splashwell was not wide enough. I glassed in a stainless steel French fry cup to allow the tie bar the range it

needs. (Pic). I had all winter to find a suitable object to create this recess in the splashwell. I received an order of fries in a restaurant and knew I’d found the best thing to use. Still need to gel coat and buff, but it will look like it’s supposed to be there.

I went with the RayMarune Ev-150 system. Easy to install, but I got unlucky and received a unit with a very bad bug that made the AP perform as if one of the stars from the Jackass movies was at the helm. I had to buy a little RayMarine Axiom unit to ‘flash’ the AP software which fixed the issue. I’ll now use that little Axiom as a dedicated map on my boat.

The hardest part of the install was pulling the hydraulic lines through rigging tubes that were already pretty full. The third return line was the one I had to get creative with. It’s between the liner and the hull as the tubes in both sides of the boat are too full for it. Local water trial indicates it will be a good setup

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My winter project of upgrading to an autopilot on the main with tied in kicker is finished. I had cable steer, so installed hydraulic steering with tilt helm. Lesson learned: if you already have a tilt helm, you can probably just buy a non tilt hydraulic helm. The 18 year old tilt mechanism on the cable steer was the exact same as the new tilt mechanism. ($200 wasted) I installed the seastar cable tie. This is a slick, kinda expensive tie bar, but I won’t fall overboard attaching it. It DOES limit the range of the main a few degrees when engaged due to limitations in the kicker’s range. Biggest issue with this is my splashwell was not wide enough. I glassed in a stainless steel French fry cup to allow the tie bar the range it

needs. (Pic). I had all winter to find a suitable object to create this recess in the splashwell. I received an order of fries in a restaurant and knew I’d found the best thing to use. Still need to gel coat and buff, but it will look like it’s supposed to be there. I went with the RayMarune Ev-150 system. Easy to install, but I got unlucky and received a unit with a very bad bug that made the AP perform as if one of the stars from the Jackass movies was at the helm. I had to buy a little RayMarine Axiom unit to ‘flash’ the AP software which fixed the issue. I’ll now use that little Axiom as a dedicated map on my boat. The hardest part of the install was pulling the hydraulic lines through rigging tubes that were already pretty full. The third return line was the one I had to get creative with. It’s between the liner and the hull as the tubes in both sides of the boat are too full for it. Local water trial indicates it will be a good setup

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Wow this is what I wanted to do but because I had the same situation as you (splash well not wide enough) I abandoned it and went with the electric Tailfin from POWRTAN

 

Thanks for the report, let me know how the 150 works for you since I still need to find a suitable set-up.

 

I already know. I water tested it for several hours tonight on my local reservoir with 15mph sustained gusting to mid 20’s. Its ability to hold the heading into the wind and in cross wind situation really impressed me. It must have something to do with having two motors rudders working in tandem. I kept the TR1 on the boat because I was skeptical anything could work as well, but this new setup exceeded my expectations. Raymarine has backed off their minimum pricing and Hodges is selling the EV-150 for $1547.


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Thanks for the information...
Time for me to spend some stimulus money!

 

I have the EV150 on my boat as well, and love it. Stays on track in some nasty weather too. I'm starting to play with the trolling patterns recently.

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