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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I heard that the outside boiler's use twice the wood as a inside airtight, is this true ???
Not sure,I normally burn about 8-10 cord a yr with my outdoor boiler.Heating a 5,000 sq ft. house and water too.I did end up burning almost 12 cord last year though.That's starting last week of Oct.-mid April continuously.With inside stove at our old house,I was right at 6 cord a yr. with 2,200 Sq ft home.
 

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Use to burn in a stove in the basement, lots of tile in our house and it kept the floors from being so darn cold. Saved some money too as we have electric heat pump with propane back up for outside temps below 40. 3 years ago they brought gas down the road and I haven't burnt since, except for fireplace on first floor for pretty. Spending under $800 a year on the gas, been fantastic
 

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I heat my home with a wood burner and have the furnace vents closed on main level woodburner is on. This year installed a second thermostat to basement area so furnace only heats that and I keep it set at 55. Upstairs is nice and toasty from wood heat. Recently just bought a fan that moves the air without electricity. Works well. I don't like the noise from the fan installed with the wood burner. Stay warm! View attachment 481093
View attachment 481095
View attachment 481094

Thanks for posting the picture of that fan. I was just considering ordering one for the top of my potbelly.
Did you do the job of facing the wall with stone tiles?
If so, I'd like to ask you some how-to-do-it questions? (PM)
I'm helping my SIL & Daughter build a man cave & we want to put a wood burner in it, pert-near exactly what you have there.
Thanks Again
 

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I heard that the outside boiler's use twice the wood as a inside airtight, is this true ???
Most(at least MY) outdoor boilers are insulated, have the “rope” seals around door, and thermostatically controlled ‘damper’. Some of the same features as a(commercial) “airtight” but the airtight is not insulated as the heat is radiated thru the outer walls(and/or into fan-blown heat pipes inside the stove) and not heating water(outdoor boiler) which is circulated into the house. There are indeed many variations(some ‘home-made”!) of each but for the most part, this is true. I (have both, a Brunco, “airtight” hearthstove-and a Central Boiler outdoor boiler(heats Water, does not make steam)! I have never noticed that one ”eats“ more wood than the other. I heated my house(3600 ft2) W/ the airtight for years, and had to put wood in it “frequently”(even during the night)-esp on a windy, “really cold“(<20 degree) day! My outdoor can be ‘loaded’ with enough wood to last “nearly” a full(same conditions) day! I think there is a “perception” that the outdoor uses more due to the shear “size” of the fire chamber(a man could easily crawl into it!)! Also, there is essentially little, or no, temp control inside a house heated with an airtight. The hot water(165-185, adjustable) from my outdoor boiler goes thru a heat exchanger inside the house which heats the circulated baseboard water, and temps are totally controlled by three zone valves with thermostats in different parts of my house. Plus another heat exchanger on the “return loop“ back to the boiler heats my electric hot water heater(for free!) These “differences” are “BIG”, IMO!
 

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I had airtight at my old house with output tied into the ducts. Worked very well so good that I would not light it above freezing but now moved and considering the outdoor boiler type so I have no wood mess in house.
Thanks for all the input to help me pick a unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I had airtight at my old house with output tied into the ducts. Worked very well so good that I would not light it above freezing but now moved and considering the outdoor boiler type so I have no wood mess in house.
Thanks for all the input to help me pick a unit.
If you have any questions in your decision making process,just shoot me a message.I will try to help any way I can.
 

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What are prices on the outdoor units installed and the supply for heat in a house I think they are cool and would work well just wondering if I move out to the country a little


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3 winters ago I switched to enviro blocks for heat, burns pretty easy in my old Defiant and cleanup is easy.

3 skids for a season means my heating cost is $600.


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Just a word of caution to anyone, who‘s maybe new to and considering wood heat, on storing firewood inside the house(including basements). My advice is “never“ do that! I’ve heated with wood for nearly 30 years, as mentioned with a forced air commercial hearth stove in the lower level fam. room, now with that stove early season and then an outside wood furnace/boiler. My brother, at abt the same time I started wood heating, used a fireplace insert and stored cut/split firewood near the stove so he didn‘t have to go outside in the cold to bring in a stoker load! Even though the wood might look benign, there are tons of insects inside and under the bark-termites, spiders, centipedes, carpenter ants, and several other varieties of crawling, boring, wood eaters and when they get warmed up, they get active and can .go into your paneling and structural wood members. My brother had to spend a small fortune for exterminators and various structural repair work! Storing wood outside for an outdoor boiler solves that problem. Any wood I use in the hearth stove is carried in and loaded immediately. I hate bugs so I do what I have to to keep them where they belong-outside! Or dead!
 

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3 winters ago I switched to enviro blocks for heat, burns pretty easy in my old Defiant and cleanup is easy.

3 skids for a season means my heating cost is $600.


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Where do you buy the envi blocks?
 

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Even though I had it in the basement with a walkout I would bring little in at a time but one day as it warmed up yellow jackets crept out of wood and I rushed to burn them or get that wood back outside. They were moving slowly and I am glad I was there to see them and they did not get a chance to start flying.
 

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We store a full cord in the basement at a time and have for years. All my wood is dry, not partially seasoned, dry, it is cut split and stacked no less then a year and usually 18 months before being burnt. I think that helps, but yes you will have some bugs. We have racks for ours so it is 6 inches off floor and not in contact with any wood structure.. Our basement is all poured concrete. I have spread granular insecticide around my wood storage area, but yes you see a few bugs, but no infestations. Mostly beetles is what we see. I also spray home defense around the basement. I live in the woods and we have bugs whether we store wood or not. I hate carrying wood in an armload at a time to feed the stove. I'll contend with a few bugs. You make a good point though, don't stack it on the floor or against any wood structure. and be observant. If termites are in your wood there will be evidence, you'll see nymphs or mud tunnels. You can avoid problems by learning what to watch for. That's why I treat the ground where I store. We have had termites (oddly this was during the years we didn't burn wood) and we keep the house treated on a 5 year plan. We have clay soils that stay wet and termites are indemic here. You can just go roll over down logs and find them, so just know your area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
What are prices on the outdoor units installed and the supply for heat in a house I think they are cool and would work well just wondering if I move out to the country a little


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Lots of different factors to come up with actual price.Size and type of unit,length of pipe run,size of heat and plate exchanger ect.My size stove was just under $9,000 and good pipe is about $12.50 per ft' of run.Learned a lot by trial and error and could have saved some cash looking back.I kinda went overboard with building a small pole building to match the house ect.Had right at $22,000 in total set up.If you have a short run and a lean to ect.Should be ball park of $12 -$13 for mid size unit and all acc.
 

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My wood goes from outside right to the wood burning stove..... never any in side, I learned the lesson years ago ..... luckily black ants ..... but never again
While splitting I've ran into large colonies of termites.... always a can of raid close, spray and set aside ..... they eventually make it to the stove
Shoe Light Leg Wood Wood-burning stove
 

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What about if I line the wood box with the sticky fly window paper that is double sided so the entire top would catch them?
 

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I stocked wood next to stove in basement but only brought in clean wood, no holes for critters to hide, heavy bark etc. The rough wood I brought in and put right in the stove. Sprays, traps, glue boards will work but will not get all of the critters.
 

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I like heating with wood so much it defies common sense. We have free gas from the oil wells on our property but I heat the house primarily with a wood stove. I also own a log splitter but I split all the wood by hand just for the exercise. It's also nice not listening to a log splitter run for hours on end.
Property Interior design Wood Gas Hearth
 
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