winterizing

Discussion in 'Boats and Motors' started by dexterm16, Oct 13, 2008.

  1. if the season was to end tomorrow what would i need to do to winterize correctly? I have an 1986 18.6 ' chaparrall 170hp I/O. It will be stored inside an unheated garage.
     
  2. firehawkmph

    firehawkmph Retired Firefighter

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    Dex,
    I used to have a similar size boat with a 190 IO back when. To put it away for winter, I used to put the water muffs on the lower unit, fire it up and let it warm up and then change the oil and filter. Prior to starting, you should also add the proper amount of Stabil to the fuel tank. Follow the directions on the bottle. Rock the boat to mix the stabil in with the fuel. After changing the oil I would fire it up one more time and spray an aerosol fogger into the air intake and let it stall the motor out. My engine had a closed cooling system so I didn't have to do anything further with it. I would take the batteries out, check the water level if it is possible, and then place them on a shelf in the garage with a battery tender hooked to them. It probably wouldn't hurt to place a couple of mouse traps under the boat, the mice are usually looking for a warm place to stay about now. If you don't have a closed cooling system, you need to circulate some rv antifreeze through your block. My buddy used to rig a short hose up from a bottle of rv antifreeze to the water muffs to do this. Give it a bath, clean up the inside, cover it up and pray for spring.
    Mike Hawkins:)
     

  3. Dont forget the outdrive oil ;)
     
  4. cw261

    cw261 Member

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    Check the "sticky" post at the top of this forum - should have all the info you need.
     
  5. any suggestions for keeping it operational during these last few cold weeks? anything to be cautious of?
     
  6. i always add stabil to the tank and then fill up the tank to keep out condensation.hook up the muffs run it 10-15 minutes to get the fuel system loaded with stabil.change the engine oil and lower unit,repack wheel bearings.drain the water out of the heat exchanger and the block.i just take out the thermostat and pour a 50/50 mix of antifreeze about a gallon in the hose to the heat exchanger and into the block.i dont fill the block up just about half a gallon does the trick.pull the coil wire and crank a few seconds.i never fog the engine but you may want to.one thing most people miss is to store your outdrive in the down position.doing that keeps the bellows from forming a set and prolongs the life of all the rubber boots in the outdrive.takes me about an hour.
    i sometimes use the boat in the winter is why i dont usually fog the engine.often times if the winter is mild i just drain the water at the ramps and use a dip stick heater when i get home.
     
  7. Rugged Seahorse

    Rugged Seahorse sander vitreus slayer

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    I'd be real careful with this method...some boats (like mine -- 1988 Larson I/O) don't generate enough suction to take up the antifreeze from a hose and you could fry your water pump/impeller assembly. I found this out the hard way after a guy at West Marine told me to do this when I asked him the same question last year. In my case (130 hp mercruiser), I now empty the cooling manifolds of water and then disconnect the water hoses at the thermostat and pour antifreeze straight in until it is full.