water muffs

Discussion in 'Boats and Motors' started by Byg, Apr 6, 2008.

  1. Byg

    Byg

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    I have 71' 25hp evinrude, can I use the muffs while I am de carbing? also this
    may sound silly but where do I place them? I dont really see where the water intake is. I was wondering if maybe the intake was the wrong design for muffs.It appears to me the intake is a hole just above the prop and muffs want work. Does this make sense LOL Thanks
     
  2. freyedknot

    freyedknot useless poster

    there should be 2 vent like looking on the sides of the lower unit. most likely they will be black plastic, covere them up ,turn water on and then start motor. make sure the motor is peeing too.
     

  3. Workdog

    Workdog "One More Time"

    A motor expert from another site (Dunk), who developed a decarb technique many people here use, says you have to load up the engine a bit to better decarb it. On a carbureted engine, I have run Seafoam through the carbs in the driveway, shut it down when it gets to smoking hard, then taken the boat to the lake to run the engine under half throttle. When an engine is on muffs, you don't want to run it up. You could fry your impeller.

    Workdog
     
  4. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

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    workdog, im going to try donkeys method of decarb today(the link he posted). where you warm it up in the drive saturate everything with seafoam and then put the motor horizonal over night to soak. then go blow it out at the lake. i was just wondering why you say to only run at 1/2 throttle. i was under the impression that i am suppose to blow out the carbon build up on the water. will 1/2 throttle do it?thanks.
     
  5. Workdog

    Workdog "One More Time"

    Well, Dunk says you shouldn't go balls-to-the-wall when you are decarbing, probably since the engine is going to be burning some serious crap in there for a period of time. I have loaded the engine up, but not WOT. If memory serves, 2,500-3,000 rpm would do it while burning off carbon. Another thing said was Seafoam works within 15 minutes or so of soaking. Other decarb solutions like Ring Free take much longer to work, some overnight. Run Seafoam thru then run it, then Seafoam again, till the engine stops smoking.

    It was funny end of last year. Stabil also has decarb properties. I put enough Stabil in my rear tank to handle 25 gallons of gas I thought was in there, then started the engines at the dock. Problem was, there was no gas in the tank, I was burning high concentrate Stabil. The smoke screen rose off the water at my dock, carried across the dock and descended into the next boat. The whole family had to bail out of their boat. :D As I quickly pulled away from the dock, #1 engine quit from no fuel before I was able to quickly switch to the forward tank. The engines ran very nice after that... ;)

    Workdog
     
  6. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

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    thank you...:)
     
  7. Workdog

    Workdog "One More Time"

    ezbite,
    Here is the Decarb method from Dunk that I have been using. Is this what you have?

    Workdog

    A Simple and Cost Effective Way to De-Carbon an Outboard
    By Capt. Bob Dunkelberger dunk75@comcast.net


    This works for Carbed, EFI, Ficht, HPDI, Opti-max and even 4-strokes... and should be administered after every 50-60 hours of use.
    First you need a separate small fuel tank. One of those 3-gallon red Tempos works well or an empty gallon milk jug in a pinch, but it might be a bit messier.
    I use Seafoam over the OEM (original equipment manufacturer) stuff like OMC Engine Tuner or Mercury Power Tune. Note: in the last few years they changed the formula and you have to let them sit up 12 hours. Who's got time for that? Seafoam does the job in 15 minutes and can be purchased from NAPA, Car Quest or other auto stores.
    You'll need 3/4 gallon of gasoline and one 16oz can of Seafoam for each engine. Don't forget to add 3oz of oil if you are pre-mixing in a carbed engine. Use a 3 ft piece of fuel hose off the small tank. Connect this tank to your engine by pulling off the main tank fuel hose from the intake side of your water separating fuel filter and plug the hose off the small tank onto that fitting. Or you can separate the fuel line on the tank side primer ball, so you can still use your primer. If your engine has a fuel plug then you will also need a fuel plug on the smaller tank's hose.
    Start the engine, let it warm up and start pulling the mix into the engine. You may have to increase the idle to keep it running once she gets loaded with the Seafoam. Run the engine 15 minutes at the dock or just cruising around under 2500 rpm's. Then shut it down and let it sit for another 15 minutes.
    Restart the engine; the smoke you see is the carbon burning off. Do the whole thing again and let her sit again for 15 more minutes. If she smokes after the second time do it again.
    I've never seen one still smoke after three doses. (I bought a Bronco two years ago that had 95,000 miles on it. When I used Seafoam on it I had the neighbors hanging out of their front doors looking for where the fire was after I started it the first time there so much smoke)
    The gallon mix should be just enough to do this 3 times. You don't need a wide-open throttle and you don't need to change the plugs. The plugs are cleaned at the same time as the combustion chambers. My suggestion is that every 50-60hrs is the optimal time to change plugs in most engines.
    I cleaned an antique Evinrude once that had a 1/4" of solid carbon on the exhaust chamber walls by running a 1/2 gal of the aforementioned mix through it. Seafoam, a great product, has been around since the 1930's and it's what they used when they were burning straight 4 stroke 40SAE oils in outboards.
    For you guys with the 4 stroke outboards? Those engines work 10 times as hard as any auto engine ever will and they too will carbon up. Too many are under the assumption that it's totally the 2 stroke oil that causes the carbon, Wrong... it's also the additives they put in the fuels today. The carbon inhibitors in 2-stroke oil are there for this reason also. Remember when gasoline used to smell like gasoline, today it smells more like bad cologne.
    For those guys that like to work the carbon treatment by spraying it down the carbs, Seafoam also comes in spray can called Deep Creep. It's the same stuff under pressure and notes on the can, "Oxygen Sensor Safe". After that, if your engine manufacturer recommends a daily additive treatment then do so. The tank and hose are a one-time purchase and the Seafoam is only costs $5-6.00 per can.
     
  8. I use a large tub I got at wal-mart - fill it with enough water and put the motor in that - takes a little time to get set up right - had to block the tub up with some cement blocks then lower the motor into it, but it works better than the muffs I think - might be worth a try
     
  9. donkey

    donkey Permanent Part Time

  10. fishingguy

    fishingguy The Inferior Fisherman

    I know you are talking about outboards here. But would this be advisable for my io?
     
  11. Byg

    Byg

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    I posted the muffs question on Iboats.com and fellow who seemed to know
    Said, That the exhuast and water p/u were one hole (shared)just below the cav plate,cant use them have to use lake or barrel. I kinda thought that when I didnt see any intake holes on the lower..Thanks for the replies..