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Truck Lift Kits

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by PoleSnatcher, Jan 13, 2005.

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  1. Body Lift

    0 vote(s)
    0.0%
  2. Suspension Lift

    4 vote(s)
    57.1%
  3. Buy a tank and FORGET about it

    3 vote(s)
    42.9%
  1. Weighing the options of a suspension lift vs. body lift

    It's a daily driver 2004 Ranger that is "lightly" off roaded occasionly
     
  2. Well you have to make a decision on what you want. These two options are totally different in their purposes. If you're only wanting some bigger tires for mudding,snow,etc...hardly no other modifications, not hard to do, and most importantly, a cheap way to raise a vehicle, get the body lift kit. The suspension lift is obviously much more money wise, harder to install, and you are now messing with the geometry of the components. Now I'm not sure what all you're going to need in the lift kit (arms,different driveshafts, longer steering linkages/alterations) b/c every vehicle is different. But from experience, IFS is more involved than solid axle lifts. So if you're not looking for more articulation and just want bigger tires and better ground clearance, then do the body lift. But personal advise, if you're gonna do anything, do it right the first time. I highly recommend a suspension lift if you're somewhat mechanical (if you're installing it yourself, or with buddies and alcohol), or have enough money to have someone to install it (usually a couple hundred). The ride will be better, you'll be able to go over larger objects, and most important to me when looking at raised vehicles is the frame showing. Personally I don't care for it one bit, but you just sit down and figure out what would be best for your applications of it.

    P.S. Remember warranty issues on both kits, just saw it was a 2004
     

  3. In A 04 The Drivetrains Are Mostly Elect. Controled. Speedos,shift
    Points Ect... You Might Try Talking To A Service Tech From Ford!
    By A Tank! Perferably One That Floats! :d
     
  4. no tranny worries as it is a manual. and for the warenty I've had it MAYBe 6 months and it was almost 15,000 with a 30,000 warrenty, this is a next summer project, I'm just tossing around some ideas.

    I know IFS is ALOT more involved thena solid and someone else would most likely be doing the work as I do not have the place or time

    or I may have money come summer and say screw it all and buy a newer f150 with a 6" lift. The new body style looks bad @$$ lifted imo
     
  5. In all honesty, this would be your best bet if you can afford it. But if you're attached to the ranger, understandable. My girlfriend thinks I love my Jeep more than her :D
     
  6. H2O Mellon

    H2O Mellon Hangin' With My Gnomies

    5Cent, I have a '99 Cherokee Sport that I'm thinking of putting a lift in. I think a 4inch. It doesnt get ridden off raod every wekeend, but every couple weekends. Can you give me any suggestions on tire size or anything? Like I said I'm thinking of a 4 inch lift.
     
  7. Character Zero

    Character Zero Smallie Phan

    134
    0
    671
    suspension all the way, body lift is ok, but the real deal is suspension. i had a ford tech hook me up, and he wouldnt let me do a body lift....



    phish on!!
     
  8. Im Driving A White 01 150 4/4. Love It! The Off Road Pack Is The Way To Go And Its Got A Nice Body Style. I Get 20 A Gal. By Far The Easiest Truck To Susp. Lift Is The Tube Axles. Some Of The Mopars Were Nice. You Can Throw 2in. Blocks In And A 1in. Taller Tire And Your Set. Just Dont Go Too Wide Because Of Hydro. Stick With 11in.
    Jig :)
     
  9. I'd go with the suspension lift too. I lifted my Dodge 4X4 six inches with springs up front, and springs and blocks at the rear. A 35"X12.5" tire fit without rubbing. But mine is a straight axle up front, so it was easy. Longer rubber brake lines were neccessary. And never, never use blocks up front.
    -Spike
     

  10. Sure can, but there is one thing that needs to be addressed with a 96+ Cherokee. All Jeeps are different, and therefore react different when lifted, but they changed the spline of the transfer case (not sure if you have the 231,command trac, or the 242,select-trac) and anything over about 2" will cause vibrations b/c of the angle of the driveshaft. This is fixed on earlier models by a simple transfer case drop and/or angled wedges under the rear springs to get the angle's equal, and may work for yours. But most cases for the 96+'s will require a Slip Yoke Eliminator and a new rear driveshaft with a CV Joint. Besides that, 4" is a relatively simple lift. Rear springs (Add-a-leaf, or full packs), front coils, new trac bar and mount, mostly likely lca's(lower control arms), and front coils. New longer sway bar links or quick disconnects are needed. Gotta go to class, but check out jeepsunlimited.com,jeepin.com,and naxja.org for more information. You'll find all you need there, but feel free to email me for more info.

    Adam
     
  11. shuvlhed1

    shuvlhed1 Banned

    697
    0
    0
    Is the best way to go. Too many body modifications when you do a body lift. Stupid stuff you don't think about. Like stretching the brake lines out of the Master cylinder, air conditioning hoses, steering assembly, shift linkage, gas line filler, etc. You should find some Ford off road forums for ideas. If a Ford is designed the way I think it is, you can get a spacer lift for your front spring and some add-a-leafs and/or shackles for the rear. Cheap and easy. If you offroad your truck at all, DO NOT use lift blocks. Have read too many people on off road forums that have had the blocks crack in half and fall off.

    If you do a mild lift say 3" or less, it is an easy job. If you go 4 to 6, then you get into serious fabrication on an IFS, like welding drop brackets onto the frame for the front diff and other things like that. Not to mention those lifts can be very expensive ($1000 and up just for the kit) Spacers and AAL's are fairly cheap. Don't forget new shocks.

    Do yourself a favor and find a Ford off road or truck forum. Should be one out there.
     
  12. jeffmo

    jeffmo officially unofficial!!!!

    not real sure if it could be used on your ranger but a guy i work with simply used coil spacers on his jeep wrangler and it worked out great.he's running 33"s and the coils spacers made it so he didn't have to use a lowering kit on his transfer case since all of the drive line angles remained the same.plus his ride quality virtually remained the same.another biggie is the price,much,much cheaper.might be worth checking into.
    if you're looking for better off road capabilities more than looks,lockers may be the way to go.
     
  13. Jeffmo, yes, with wrangler (TJ) they have 4 coils where simple polyurethane spaces work well for clearing bigger tires, but they don't do anything for more articulation like a longer spring would. He may be able to find a kit with the spacers up front for the coils, but for the rear he's going to need an AAL,new spring pack, longer shackles, or blocks (which is highly not recommended). I'd start searching the web/magazines to get some kind of idea on what you want to spend also. Keep us updated.

    Adam
     
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