trailer wiring

Discussion in 'Boats and Motors' started by ezbite, Aug 5, 2008.

  1. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

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    i rewired my trailer today, new led brake lights, led running lights, led bar light, wire, everything. i have turn signals and brake lights but no running/clearance lights. i keep blowing the 10 amp fuse inside my truck for the running/clearance lights. i am wondering if anyone has any ideas. i have a suspicion it is those stupid plastic tap-in things. you know the ones that you put 2 wires in, push down a metal clip and then wrap around a plastic clip. i think that metal clip has spliced into both wires of a running light somewhere because im getting voltage comming from the trailer ground. just wondering if anyone can think of anything else that might be blowing the fuse before i cut out all 6 of those clips and resplice. thanks.
     
  2. Workdog

    Workdog "One More Time"

    Do it anyways EZ. Those plastic connectors are not meant for a boat trailer that spends part of its life under water. Get heat shrink butt connectors. Since I use my boat in the salt also, I thread on a heat shrink tube (with the glue inside) before using the heat shrink butt connector, then heat shrink on the tube over the butt connector for added insurence. It's a small price to pay. You mentioned the other day to someone else about the "black" wires from a corroded connector. Those blue plastic connectors are famous for that. Listen to the ole dog on this one. ;)

    By the way, I ran into a problem once when replacing a light. I screwed the light back onto the trailer, and a wire got under the light fixture. The corner of the hard plastic fixture rubbed enough of the plastic coating of the wire away to make a direct connection to the trailer frame. Voila, instant short.
     

  3. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

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    thanks workdog. ive never liked those stupid things, but it was getting dark and they came with the tail lights and said water resistant. i said what the heck and installed them. i have pink, blue and yellow heat shrink butt fittings. guess i should have just stopped and did it correct today instead of rushing. oh well, i will be doing it the right way today, as soon as i go get some more 10ampers.lol.:confused:
     
  4. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

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    took workdogs advise and cut out all those stupid plastic clips and spliced in butt end heat shrink connectors. took apart a couple of those stupid plastic clips and the metal clip pierced both wires with the same side. i can only assume they all did. hooked up everything and i still was popping fuses????:confused: see that guide-on, theres one on the other side that the wire to the barlight goes inbetween the cross member and frame. the guide-on also bolts on here. seems some dumba$$ :rolleyes: smashed the wire when he bolted it back on. well found my shorts(yes, there were a few) i learned a little and now i got some prutty led lights that i dont need to unplug everytime i launch. thanks for the help workdog.;)
     

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  5. UFM82

    UFM82 The one others want to be

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    The clips pierced both wires? Aren't they supposed to? How else does the current get to the light wire from the main harness?

    Anytime you get current through the trailer, you know you have a ground issue. You found yours by tracing the smashed wire. Many times it's simply a mis-wired lamp or such. 99.9% of the time people have a trailer light issue it's a ground problem. Yours was just a little bit more severe. Maybe you should have just put a 20 amp fuse in instead. ;)

    I used the clip-connectors to connect the side-markers lamps on my trailer and they do fine. Yes, they'll corrode over time especially if I saltwater them but it's a simple matter to remove and replace them. For the time involved with cutting and splicing they are worth the hassle IMHO. I'll clip them on and wrap them with cold-vulcanizing tape to waterproof them and I don't get any issues.

    UFM82
     
  6. Workdog

    Workdog "One More Time"

    Whatever works for you, I guess. In my recent experience, I got one year in salt out of regular connectors and had to rewire the whole trailer because the wires were internally corroded in addition to the connectors. Installed heatshrink connectors and got 3 years in salt and going on 5 years in fresh with no problems yet.
     
  7. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

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    i have a 2 conductor wire running back to the tail lights from the plug in. one green and brown, one yellow and brown. i then tapped into that with a single wire comming from the running lights with the stupid clips. running lights are grounded to the frame and i tapped into the brown on both sides for the running lights. the stupid clip pierced both yellow and brown/green and brown wires along with the black wire from the marker light. so i guess i should have said "the stupid metal clips pierced 3 wires and shorted out" anyhow...im done and do believe corrosion will not be a problem anymore:) thanks again workdog. by the way, if im typing slow, its because im eating some panko walleye...yum yum!!

    i respect everyones oppinion and advise, im just not a fan of those stupid clips and will not use them ever again..lol.
     
  8. yea sounds like a short. try unhooking those clips and test
     
  9. If your ever in a pinch and need to use the clip connectors... use a razor knife and split the 2 wire harness down the middle about 6 inches so you don't have all 3 wires near the connector.
     
  10. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

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    LOL. i was going to do that, but because it was almost dark and i didnt feel like dragging out the light, i just clipped both wires in. im sure i was partly(a big part) to blame for the shorts because of this. i just dont like those stupid clips.:p i feel much better now that the heat shrink splices are all waterproof.