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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey OGF - I did post this in the boats/motors forum but not sure how many read that on a regular basis. Took the boat out this morning and after I parked, I noticed that the rear support for my rollers snapped. Any idea on how to fix or where to take it? Thanks for any ideas!!
473100
 

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On 224 east of Akron their is Majestic trailer and Hitch. I have had them do work on my boat trailer. They did a great job. Google it and it will come up.
I hope something works out for you. That would be a sick feeling to see that.\
Or even a welding shop maybe able to fix something like that better.
 

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This is going to get dusted.... delete it and at least move it to LE general forum. They posted last week about putting non reports in here

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That’s ugly. If you are down our way, might give Friess Welding in Akron a try.
He is a great guy. He has welded my trailer a couple of times and always took it right away. I took a bunch of walleye with me one time to show my gratitude for him always working on it with no waiting.
 

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OP bio says Brunswick, might need to be traveling with a “questionably“ road worthy(hopefully un-loaded!) trailer. Anybody have a suggestion “closer” to him? Having said that, that damage appears to be totally wasted from rust thru. Might be time be checking OGF Marketplace, clist, Fbook Marketplace, Let-Go, etc, for a trailer ”replacement”! I've seen several recently. Just saying.
 

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Get a couple of 1/4in. plates of steel the width of the trailer steel a about a foot long. Back both sides and wrap good with a ratchet strap. It should hold till you get to a weld shop. Then they can use the plates to reinforce and weld. Same thing happened to my buddies trailer while Striper fishing. We drive it over 400 miles home with the ratchet strap on it. His boat was a Bayliner Trophy big and heavy
 

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As ugly as that pic is, I’d suggest a thorough inspection of the entire trailer. Given the amount of rot shown here, I’d be surprised if other areas were not also compromised. Safety is the key. You don’t want to fix one area only to have other areas break. This is especially a concern at highway speeds.

I had a 2000 EZ loader. The paint of the structural members looked great, but an internal inspection revealed rot from the inside. It got to a point where I was concerned that every bump I hit would cause something to fail. It was no fun towing in that manner. Put safety first. Good luck.
 

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That’s the problem with tube design trailers they hold water and grit and they get rusty from the inside out.Your better off,IMO,to get aluminum or galvanized with c-channel or I-beam design. Just my opinion and good luck.
 

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This is a common problem on most trailers that size

That indentation always holds water. Once you get it repaired drill a 1/4 drain hole all the way through it and repaint, problem solved.

With it being square tubing make sure you drill the hole from the top all the way through and not halfway from the top than from the bottom, Drilling up from the bottom will throw a big enough burr on the hole that won't allow the water to drain and you will end up with the same issue.
 

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As ugly as that pic is, I’d suggest a thorough inspection of the entire trailer. Given the amount of rot shown here, I’d be surprised if other areas were not also compromised. Safety is the key. You don’t want to fix one area only to have other areas break. This is especially a concern at highway speeds.

I had a 2000 EZ loader. The paint of the structural members looked great, but an internal inspection revealed rot from the inside. It got to a point where I was concerned that every bump I hit would cause something to fail. It was no fun towing in that manner. Put safety first. Good luck.
Fully agree! Hate to see a catastrophic failure while traveling 60mph! You might be able to find a good condition used trailer for the same amount as the repairs.
 

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The rest of the trailer is probably not in any better shape. IF that is the only section that's bad that entire tube could easily be replaced or it could be plated over similar to how a splint works. I don't have any steel at the house that could fix that. If your close to streetsboro let me know I know a guy that owns a welding shop up there I can get you on contact with him
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the replies and I apologize for posting incorrectly. Will probably just get a new/used trailer. The one I have is 30 yrs old and does have other spots rusting out. Waiting to hear from insurance and go from there.
Thanks again!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Yeah, my boats insured through Boat US and have trailer coverage added. Waiting to hear back from them
 

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Good luck with replacing it. Definitely got your money's worth at 30 years. Go galvanized or aluminum if possible. They last forever with freshwater use.

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I will likely be picking up a new trailer this week but have no idea to do with my old one? Also, does anyone know if I can transfer plates from one to the other?
Thanks
 

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I will likely be picking up a new trailer this week but have no idea to do with my old one? Also, does anyone know if I can transfer plates from one to the other?
Thanks
Take it to a scrap yard and sell it for scrap. I would think you should be able to transfer them like you do with a car. Check with BMV.
 
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