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Tie rod question - Chevy Tahoe

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by fugarwi7, Aug 10, 2007.

  1. fugarwi7

    fugarwi7 Lumberjack

    Anyone know anything about inner tie rods on a Chevy Tahoe...mine are pretty loose and most likely need replaced...is this something I can do so long as I have the front end aligned afterwards? I have reasonable mechanical skills and a floor jack to lift the truck...I found Moog tie rods for about $50 each...don't know if I should go with after market products or stay with GM parts...anyone have any suggestions or opinions? What unforeseen challenges should I expect if I attempt myself? Have you had this work done by a professional or dealer...if yes, what did it cost? Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
     
  2. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

    tie-rods are pretty easy. i have not done one in a while so im not sure about a tahoe. id go with gm parts. when you get the old one off, count the number of threads from the collar on both sides and make sure the new one matches up count wise, in other words make sure the new one is exactly as long as the old on was.. you should not need to get an alinement if there the same rod. you dont need to get a tie rod fork. just remove the cotter pin and unscrew the nut until it is at the end of the bolt, but dont remove it until popped out.. use a hammer to pop it out of the socket, hit the bolt/nut. a fork is easier on older vehicles. the most important thing is to make sure you have that tahoe on some jackstands and wheels blocked before getting under it. if you turn the wheel in the opposite direction of the one your working on you have a little more room. i would tackle the job myself. dealers are to much money for me, ive never met one i could not change. im sure you can do it. i hope we are talking about the same tie-rod
     

  3. Tie rods are pretty easy, if you have rack n pinion steering the inners are tricky, need a special socket, As for old style linkage no problem. Counting threads gets you close but you still definitly need an alighnment, I've had them checked after counting threads and they were way out. Remember toe setting is only zero or 1/16" in not much but it will chew up tires.
     
  4. Go with the Moog ones. They will probably outlast the vehicle. Pretty easy job like everyone has said. Just be sure to go straight to the alignment shop when you are done. Also make sure that the rest of the front end is tight. Jack the control arms up and check the ball joints by trying to wiggle the tires from top to bottom. Also take a pry bar with the tire a few inches off the ground and try to pry the tire up and down. If there is anything else loose they will not be able to align it.
     
  5. 'Rude Dog

    'Rude Dog 'Tusc River Rat

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    It is usually better to measure the distance , from center to center on the grease zerks ( if they have them) when doing tie rod ends- also, a good website for full size gm's ( tahoes, pickups, escalades, yukons, etc.) is fullsizechevy.com- sign up as a member, just like this site, its' free , also there are a few gm certified mechanics on the site ( one is gmc sid, I believe...) a wealth of knowledge on there, for both 2 and 4wd trucks!!! 'Rude Dog
     
  6. I would have to agree with everyone here witht he exception of which parts to use. The brand won't really matter a whole lot but be sure they are greasable! If they have grease fittings and are properly maintained, they will definitely outlast the truck. That was the biggest mistake (IMO) that the manufacturer ever made when they eliminated the grease fittings. I grease mine every oil change and haven't had any problems with them at all.