This may sound dumb but...( ice shanty question )...

Discussion in 'Hard Water Discussions' started by yonderfishin, Oct 1, 2008.

  1. I am thinking about making some sort of wood frame or sled that I can attatch a pop up ice cube shanty to before pulling it out on the ice and then comes apart to transport it home. This would give the shanty a little weight at the bottom and minimize the need for ice achors , even if its just a 2 x 4 square frame with skiis beneath it. Also less time fiddling with setting the shanty up while out on the ice. Has anybody ever tried this or seen it done ?
     
  2. hardwaterfan

    hardwaterfan Twinsburg, OH (NE OH, northern edge of Summit Co.)

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    i would think it would be easier to deal with the anchors and set up than it would be with a frame. the trade off between taking something that you can carry and turning it into something you have to drag is too steep. all the wood and skis is too much weight. i would focus on a better way to anchor the tent. can you fasten one anchor prior to set up? if you can do that then you can have a solid starting point to set up without the shack blowing away.

    i read that the anchors are real easy to use if you drill a pilot hole for them, but then you need to bring a drill.
     

  3. The benefit from less usage of anchors is when on 4-5 inches of ice , when any damage you do to the ice can weaken it, especially drilling holes. I think I aged about 2 years one day last winter at north baltimore , the ice was 4-5" and constantly cracking enough to see the cracks form now and then. I put 2 screw type anchors in but not deep , sweating bullets the whole time.

    But , I struggled a few times last winter setting up the shanty out on the ice where there was more wind just because they can make good kites :) and by the time I was actually fishing I was almost ready to go home. Its a problem that most portable type shanties have except for the half sled flip over type wich weigh a little more. Im kinda thinking about a minimal 2x4 frame wich folds up and has some type of runners on it and some attatchment for the corners of the ice cube. You are right about the extra weight but if I could keep that to a minimum.
     
  4. It all becomes crystall clear the first time you try dragging it through 6 inches or more of fresh snow. You will find you built a snow plow and you have not designed in enough horsepower.
     
  5. sorry to break the news to you but I think its time you get a flip over shanty.
    I used to use a pop up shappel until I tore my shoulder up getting blown over with me inside of it. Its been two seasons and it still hurts.

    Fortunately I inherited my fathers clam guide and the fishability and ease of moving is crazy. Its like the jump from canoe to bass boat.
    If you look around on the net you can find some good deals from motivated sellers who are sick of waiting for ice. Even if you get a smaller one. Its just more efficient. I rather be in a tiny flip over than a giant pop up because of the flexibility fishability and the saftey!!!
     
  6. Yeah I suppose it would make a better snow plow than anything else. It will be a while until I can spend money on a flipover type , though Ive a mind to draw up a 3D plan of how to build one. I got the pop up ice cube from one of the guys on here and its still a whole LOT better than not having one at all , its great compared to being a bucket sitter. Just doing some thinking on how it can be improved. Thanks for the replies guys .
     
  7. hardwaterfan

    hardwaterfan Twinsburg, OH (NE OH, northern edge of Summit Co.)

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    any ice lover spends a lot of time thinking about ice and how it can be done better and easier. as far as easy, or rugged, or equipment abuse, ive found is 10 times greater when youre actually out on the ice facing the elements. nothing takes a beating like ice fishing equipment, nothing.

    my only thought on your comments would be that i wouldnt be as concerned "damaging" 4"-5" of ice. if it can support your weight, and you can drill a few 6" or bigger holes to fish in, then it can handle 2-4-8 anchor holes as well. the crystal clear ice that you could actually see crack as you drill a hole is under pressure. its not cracking to move away from itself, its cracking together and laterally somewhat. the more whiter/less clear the ice is, the more flexible it is.

    i was actually looking at some wood pallets at work and thinking that if you could attach a shanty to that and you could remove a few boards to fish through that would actaully be pretty solid. problem is just how to get it out more than 100' without passing out. plus since you want to break it down i assume you dont have a truck and that creates more problems. if it isnt easy it just wont work. anything you do in the garage will be 10 times harder to do on the lake.

    good luck, maybe you'll come up with some ideas. if you have some specific problems with your project post some pics and we can all try to figure something out.
     
  8. ice ohio

    ice ohio Banned

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    No idea is a dumb idea. Keep up the ideas coming.

    I am sure we all have ideas that could make the ice fishing better.

    I am working on a new style shanty for walkers and i will post pictures when it is finished.

    You are on the right direction. I think you have to find the right balance between weight, strength and usability. I hope that mine will acclomplish all 3.

    It will be by trial and error but that is the whole fun of dreaming.

    Keep all the ideas coming.

    Ice Ohio
     
  9. Yonder, for some good ideas try going to iceshanty.com.
     
  10. I think there are quite a few ways of using the plastic decking lumber you can get at most home improvement stores in making or improving shanties. Its flexible , slippery on ice, and can be cut or bent into shape. Its a little heavier than regular lumber probably but if you can use the plastic sled runners, etc. for part of the shanty setup once at your location then you have fewer parts or less weight than using things that have only one purpose. There are LOTS of ideas in the isles at at the home improvement store.

    I do have a truck to put my stuff in so I am still working on an idea for a frame that is hinged on all 4 corners so that it collapses for transportation and can be pulled in a sled. If the shanty can connect to it at the bottom easily then it should atleast in theory be somewhat light but add just enough weight to stay in one place as long as the wind isnt blowing too strong.


    If I can find the right materials then maybe my air force autobody/allied trades mechanic training can finally be put to good use for once.
     
  11. hardwaterfan

    hardwaterfan Twinsburg, OH (NE OH, northern edge of Summit Co.)

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    the hinges would have to be REALLY strong. you would need a bungee or something to hold the frame/tent in the collapsed position for carrying. you could permanently attach the tent to the frame i would think. you cant put the eye bolts inside like i drew, they would have to be on the outside of one of the boards.

    just a few ideas, i might be missing something.

    maybe the handle could double as the anchoring point in high wind.
     

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  12. Actually I think a bolt through each corner so that is folds up scissor style is the best option. It should be really easy to transport and set up that way.
     
  13. hardwaterfan

    hardwaterfan Twinsburg, OH (NE OH, northern edge of Summit Co.)

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    that would be a lot stronger. i was thinking of a way to keep all the boards at the same level to keep continuous contact with the ice. with bolts at least two boards will be off the ice by the thickness of the wood. i cant picture in my mind how you could collapse it without taking some of the bolts out. (i always try to think of the fastest and easiest way to do something) the other thing i was thinking was if the whole thing folded on itself twice you could pack the tent into the folds if the tent was permanently attached. then bungee the whole thing and sled it out. you would have to also pack the support bars into the bundle. im not sure how the tents looks or works though.

    well, good luck to you.
     
  14. One bolt through each corner tightened just snug but not too tight would allow the wood to pivot. But you are right that only 2 boards would be in contact with the ice. It would be better for them all to be in the ice.
     
  15. bassmastermjb

    bassmastermjb The Lucky One

    Any more weight than a canvas ,poles & base and you'll be wasting your time,money and will bust your a$$ lugging this thing around.Do yourself a favor and buy a used flipover or pop-up.If it was cost effective and did it's job more people would make one.That's the reason you see very few man made shelters.You canot make one more durable,lightweight or roomier than the shanty mfg'rs put on the market.The $100.00-$150.00 you spend will be the best investment you'll ever make if you like to icefish...........Mark
     
  16. hardwaterfan

    hardwaterfan Twinsburg, OH (NE OH, northern edge of Summit Co.)

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    i paid $300 for my shanty, this is the fifth year i will use it, so this year's "cost" (and all the previous year's) is $60. and its pretty much like brand new. so i expect that cost per year will come down a lot more. youre right, its an investment. its one of the best things i ever bought.
     
  17. hardwaterfan

    hardwaterfan Twinsburg, OH (NE OH, northern edge of Summit Co.)

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    im thinking you will have to recess the bolt heads also or they will interfere when you collapse the boards. im picturing that it could be done without taking any bolts out if all the boards laid at an angle against the ice. none of the boards would lay flat, they would all have to be angled, but it could be done. but i dont see how you could permanently attach the tent with a bolt set up. well, maybe it could be done. it sure would be a lot easier if you could permanently attach the tent. that would be a real pain to have to take it off and put it on every time. if you really have to set it up in the parking lot and then drag it out (or out on the lake) i could see a lot of frustration and anger there. (well, at least i could see that happening to me for sure! :D ) im just imagining bitter cold and brutal wind. it makes everything harder and patience thinner.
     
  18. Im thinking a 3 ft. wide by 3 ft long half box about 2 ft high tapered up from the bottom on a angle so it pulls like a sled over snow , made out of thin plywood ( reinforced and shellac of some type on the bottom). Open at the back end. 2 or 3 aluminum or 1x4 arches with tarp attached to them that flip over and extend 2-3 ft past the end. Sit inside the sled portion. The weight of the arches pulls the tarp tight. I have to draw it up on paper and experiment with it a little but if Im right it wont weigh much and will be low profile against the wind and I think I already have most of the materials somewhere in my garage. This has been a fun discussion , thanks for all your input, I will draw it up tonight on paper so I can see potential problem areas.
     
  19. hardwaterfan

    hardwaterfan Twinsburg, OH (NE OH, northern edge of Summit Co.)

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    youre describing a flip shanty. this one is $199, 47 pounds. 30" width, a bit tighter than what you described (3'). you could probably find a used one for 120-160.

    http://www.reedssports.com/Product/product.taf?_function=detail&_ID=1284

    its gonna be really hard to make from scratch that kind of tarp that will fit and sit nice and fold down well. but as far as the other stuff if you can keep the weight below about 60 pounds it might work. and if its all at no cost (stuff you already have) then i could see trying it. but i wouldnt spend a whole lot of money trying to make a flip over from scratch, its not worth it.
     
  20. I read the post about using shrink wrap to make a shanty and it got me thinking...anybody ever thought about using stretch wrap off a roll ? I know it isnt ideal but just in the wanderings of a bored mind I imagined making a frame out of 1x4's and wrapping it with stretch wrap and then possibly coating it with something like...roof coating, etc. Seems like if the wrap had enough layers and then coated with something to protect it and help keep it together it could work. The only problem I can see is an opening for a door, but with a little imagination that could be solved. Not that I am planning to build one like this but as a suggestion of possibility to anybody experimenting with a design or to see if anybody has ever tried it before. It should be kinda light and cheap to make. The biggest hurdle to people wanting to build their own is the cost of available material to cover a frame with.