Super Sealing

Discussion in 'Tackle Making' started by TIGGER, Mar 6, 2008.

  1. Hey everyone, I thought I would bring up the subject of sealing the wood baits before the painting process. There are many ways that you can seal the wood before the painting steps. I have tried many of them with success.

    Minwax sanding sealer..... This is a good way to seal your baits. You can throw the bodies in the can and let them soak over night or for just a couple of hours. Works very well.

    Krylon Fusion........ This is a spray can primer. I have not tried it but I know people like this product. Can be bought at many places.

    Pre-epoxy coats. I like to use this one. It is mostly for the larger musky baits. I will take the wood blank and coat the lure with the top coat epoxy before paint. After is dries I paint right over top of it.

    Dissolving cups in lacquer thinner or acetone . This done by taking plastic cups and adding them to Lacquer thinner or acetone. Place the cups and liquid in a glass jar and let the cups dissolve overnight. The plastic suspends in the solution. Dip your wood bodies in the solution and let dry leaving the plastic in and on the wood. Not much build-up of the coating but it does stop the water from entering the wood.

    [​IMG]


    Super sealing.................... This is a new method I just started to try. Our fello member "Swede" has this material available. You can Pm him for access to this product. I believe this is the same product that Rapala uses to seal their balsa wood baits. Rock hard stuff.

    Steps in this process.........

    You will need a jar .......... Virgin lacquer thinner or acetone. Acetone will dry a little faster. Also the pellets.


    [​IMG]

    The pellets are very small and clear


    [​IMG]


    You take the pellets and disslove them overnight. There is a point that reaches supersaturation with the solution. I think I added almost a cup of the product for the larger pickle jar. The solution reaches a thick honey type of consistancy. You can mix with a wood stir stick. If the you have not used it in a while just stir and it is good to go.

    [​IMG]


    On the first couple of dips you may want the material to dry overnight. The next day you can dip almost every 15 minutes to create a very good build up of coating on the baits.

    I take the baits with pliers and dip it into the solution

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I made a little drying rack. Just a little frame with 6 eye hooks at the top. It is important to have a smooth bottom plate. This will let you razor blade the material off the bottom and add it back to the solution. There is no waste with this product. If it is not on the bait it is one the floor to be scraped up and reused back into the solution

    [​IMG]

    Here is a pic of the some baits there were dipped only 3 times. I will dip them up to 8 to 10 times. It leaves the baits very very smooth and ready for paint with no sanding and such.

    [​IMG]

    One key with the dipping is to rotate the tail / head dips. do the tail first for 3 dips and them the go to the head for 3. This will leave an even coating on the bait over the span the dipping process. I may be missing some little stuff but Swede can fill in anything that I missed.

    John
     
  2. Thin your solution til its like milk in consistancy (this is how i do) I´d rather
    dip in very thin solution since it penetrates the wood deeper& dip more times
    I dip up to 30 times on some lures just because i want to be 100% sure nothing will penetrate the lure by biting .You can use both Acetone &Virgin Laquer Thinner for disolving .
    I prefer Acetone since my experience is that it cures harder & it smells less .
    If you use laquerpaints you wont need a special primer just see to that your paints is compatable with eachother & shoot a white base & do your pattern over it .With some metallic colors & most waterbased paints you can use it as a topcoat too,but do a test before you dip your lure (ruined paintjob) seal a wooden dowel & test your paints if solution disolves them you must use a protective clear like createx waterbased clear & dont forget to heatset the paintjob before dipping .If anyone got questions i´ll be happy to try to answer them

    Roger
     

  3. excellent product, use in a well ventilated area, thinner soloution is best,10 to 15 dips, its like it changes your wood lures composition, to that of a plastic lure, bullet proof stuff for sure

    Etch
     
  4. I forgot to add somethings that can be very interesting for some of you

    1.No potlife if it driesup just add acetone or virgin laquer thinner
    2.No spinningwheel needed just dip & hangup
    3.All dripoffs are reusable theres no waste
    4.Got worn or beatenup Rapalas? (wooden) dip &reseal them so you can use them again
     
  5. I would just like to say, I have used two different brews of this stuff, both are very good, but Swedes is that little bit better, mainly clarity. pete
     
  6. I am falling in love with the stuff. I am just beginning with it. I will thin it down a bit on Swede's tip. I am really thinking of doing a clear exotic wood bait just for fun. I have some curly maple and burl type of woods. I think it would be great on those type of lures.

    I really do like the "No" waste aspect along with the clearity. I scooped up some tonight and added it back to the solution.

    Swede, Whats the longest you have let a bait soak in this stuff for the first dip. I know the first dip is the only long dip that you would have. It would start to dissolve it in any of the other later stage dips.

    Definetly have a vented area when doing this.
     
  7. Great thread, Tigger.

    I have a shot of this stuff, which I received from another member, but I haven't dumped it into the acetone yet.

    Really going to listen close to learn from your experience and from the other guys.
     
  8. The longest i´ve soaked a lure is about 20 - 30 minutes
    then there were no bubbles on the body of the lure .
    I dont sand any raised grain down inbetween dips either like some thats using this ,theres no need to do it either since all rised grain will be covered with plastic
     
  9. You want to hear what real procrastination is???? I bought several bags of the pellets from Swede and somemore on Ebay over a year ago and they are still sitting in my shop in the shipping boxes, right next to the Acetone I bought to go with them.....how sad is that.....

    Rod
     
  10. found some stuff on ebay but the pellets are blue, is this the same stuff?
     
  11. Rod i cant belive that you havent tried it YET lol if you do you´ll never go back to the old way of sealing baits .Just dont mix the diffrent bags since that other guy´s stuff isnt the same .He states in his sales description that it is what the big companies use but it isn´t .He tried to get me to give him all the specs on this in a trade for some in my eyes "junklures" i wasn´t interested so i guess he went & bought the first stuff he could find .

    Chappy the stuff you found on ebay isnt the same, he claims it to be but there´s over 60 diffrent qualities . He says his stuff is Rockwell 80 in hardness
    & as far as i know (i´ve tried to melt plastic kitchen ware) that the harder it cures the more brittle it will be .

    I also got some lips in same material for shallow running baits
     
  12. where can i find it.
     
  13. I can sell you some & if you´re interested in the lips shoot me a pm with your email addy
     
  14. Forgot to add that this is the sealer a total newbie can get same result with as a Pro gets .
     
  15. Hey Roger. Good to see you! I purchased some from Roger myself and was impressed. I used it to seal a small bluegill lure I made and couldn't believe how smooth and even a finish it has! It even hugged corners that epoxy would shy away from. I had some trouble with it getting cloudy during humid weather, but Roger told me I could just dip it in pure acetone and it would take that away. Roger is a heck of a guy and sells the right stuff. I would reccomend him to anyone. :)
     
  16. I have been using epoxy for the first coat on my baits and I was wondering......Is this method better than epoxy for the first coat? Both are smooth, but is this a "tougher" sealer that will never let the hooks wear through to the wood?

    Thanks.
     
  17. This is much simpler way to seal your bait . Requires no spinning just dip& hang til you got the surface you want, on first dip you let it soak for up to 30 minutes depending on the wood you have used .After that its just quick dips&hang up .Best with this is that if you forget the lid & it fully cures only thing you need to do is to add acetone to get it disolved again .
    Never worry about potlife or if you have the right 50/50 mixture like if you used epoxy.Hooks will wear thru anything in time .
    I prefer this way because it simplifies the way to seal & build up a basecoat on your lure compared to epoxy

    Roger
     
  18. eyesman_01

    eyesman_01 getting wEYESer every day

    I bought some but still haven't had the time to use it. Looking forward to it. How well would this do as a sealer after painting spoons?
     
  19. All depends on how well your paint adheres to metal. On spoons with a body like Rapalas minnow spoon it works well but on bare metal with deep cups i´d say use something else .My tests havent been real good on bare metal but thats me .I know of a few thats used it on spoons with good results .

    Roger
     
  20. Could you dip lead head jigs in that stuff?