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Starter Kit Material List

Discussion in 'Tackle Making' started by fugarwi7, Nov 19, 2007.

  1. fugarwi7

    fugarwi7 Lumberjack

    For those of you who have built many types of lures, including cranks, spoons and worm harnesses, would you mind compiling a list of materials, i.e., paints (water based or enamals), clearcoats, etc. that we wanna-be's need to consider (or just go purchase) to get started. I understand the need for things like an airbrush, sanding tools, and the basic equipment so my request is aimed at more technical aspects of lure making. My personal interest is painting spoons and crankbaits for Erie, but I realize the many other applications a basic material supply can be used for. Any help would be appreciated...just trying to condense the time line and jump in with the best products availble from the get-go! Spring is just around the corner and I need some type of therapy during the winter. THANKS.
     
  2. eyesman_01

    eyesman_01 getting wEYESer every day

    As far as paints I'm still testing to figure out the best to use in my airbrushes myself. I've tried a few different kinds and some of the water based paints won't spray through my fine tips, but of course, they aren't "airbrush" paints either. My best luck so far has been with the Testors model paint. However, I've found lots of listings on Ebay for the Createx paints John and Vince recommend, so as soon as I'm able I'm going to purchase those to try.

    As far as clear coats, I've been using Devcon epoxy from WalMart on my cranks, and a spray on clear acrylic sealer (found in the crafts section at WalMart) for my blades and spoons. I've also seen fingernail polish used on blades and spoons, which are acrylic anyway and shouldn't need a sealer.

    As limited as it is, these are from my experience only. I'm sure the "masters" :D can give a more accurate list. They've sure taught me a lot from reading and re-reading their posts. Hope this gives you somewhere to start anyway.
     

  3. Vice to hold baits while painting. I like a small bench vise that swivels.

    Clamps to hold the netting while spraying scales.

    Netting material to spray the scales.

    Windex or windshield washer fluid to clean the airbrush between colors when using water base paints.

    Craft sticks or "popsicle" sticks to stir the paint while thinning or mixing colors.

    Q-tips for aiding in the cleaning of the airbrush and removing small errors while painting.

    A brush kit for cleaning the airbrush...this is available from dixieart.com...helps keep the brush clean and working efficiently.

    Airbrush lubrication oil...this costs about $7 or $8 but it is some of the best money you'll spend because it keeps the airbrush needle lubed up and the trigger from sticking. You simply put a drop on the tip and front half of the needle before you replace the needle while cleaning the brush. And no, the oil will not affect your paint work in any way.

    More to follow...gotta run.
     
  4. Wow!c just from what I've read so so, it looks like you'll have a pretty long list with good information to go by. My little shop consists of three different vices, small model files, of coarse scissors, pliers, split ring pliers, and most of the paints I use are enamels and spray on acrylic sealer. For my crankbaits, jerkbaits and topwater baits I have 60 grit sand paper, 80 grit, 100 grit, 150 grit, 220 grit and 320 grit. Stamina lure company and Barlows is where I buy most of my lure components. :B
     
  5. I think an important factor is the work area. Proper lighting and a comfortable workbench and chair are important.

    I use three lights on my bench. They are the type that clamp to the bench and can be adjusted to various angles. Two of them have "daylight" bulbs (rather than florescent) so that I can see the colors that will actually appear in the true sunlight.

    Also:
    Rulers that show both inches millimeters. I use millimeter measurements whenever possible to get a higher degree of precision and accuracy.

    Heat gun for taking the bubbles out of envirotex or Devcon 2 ton epoxy

    Containers to hold screw eyes, replacement Xacto knife blades, and other small parts.

    Vinyl gloves for painting and working with plumber's epoxy, etc.

    S hooks for hanging baits between the various assembly steps...I cut up coat hangers with a pair of sidecutters and bend the pieces into S hooks.

    I think a rotary tool, like a Dremel, is almost essential. The tool allows sanding, cutting, shaping, drilling, etc. I use a rotary tool for every polycarbonate lip that I make. I use the tool to rough and sand the portion of the lip that will actually be inserted into the bait. Roughing it up makes the epoxy grip it better and after the epoxy sets that lip is NOT ever coming out of the bait. (I use Devcon 2 ton epoxy to glue the lip in place)

    Some type of awl is nice to punch in a pilot hole prior to drilling holes for the screw eyes. I made mine out of a piece of wooden dowel rod with a nail driven into the end. I then used the rotary tool to grind off the head of the nail and create a point on the remaining nail shaft.







    More to follow