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Does anyone have a good formula for how much mono backing plus braid fills a reel properly? Thanks for any help.
 

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I zero the counter and wind on 20lb trilene till it is zero again. Then 400 ft of original stren 14 lb which is same diameter as berkley xt. That will get you close.


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I did my braid with an extra reel.Put braid first then mono and calibrate.Write it all down and reel that back on to the other reel.Then on that empty reel put that same amount of mono on then calibrate with the braid.
 

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Eat-Fish-Hunt
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Depends on what lb test/dia backer and how much braid you want on it. What others have said is good. Spool on the amount of braid you want and then add the backer and than measure it off at 100ft. TIP... if it is more than a 100ft when measured you need to ADD more line. If it’s shorter than a 100ft you need to take line OFF. Opposite of what you would think.
 

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retired pipefitter120/669 sprinkler fitter
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I zero the counter and wind on 20lb trilene till it is zero again. Then 400 ft of original stren 14 lb which is same diameter as berkley xt. That will get you close.
So you are putting 1400' of line on your reel ?

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No, the counter would show 1400 but that is not how many ft of line is on the reel. The counter counts revolutions of the spool. So with an empty spool the first foot registered by the counter will actually be way less than a foot. Probably only a couple of inches. The counter will only correctly register a foot of line when the reel is ‘full’. Problem is how full is full. That is why we calibrate. Hope this makes sense.


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Exactly right Meerkat! The line counters work by counting rotations of the spool. At the core the circumference is much smaller than when the reel is loaded with mono backer. So at the core one revolution of the reel might be 1inch but on a full reel one revolution will be more like 4 inches. There are some YouTube videos that show how calibrate reels that might be helpful. I have not tried the method of loading braid first but suspect it’s not as accurate due to the explanation above and line thickness differences!
 

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That is the thing with calibration, it is only correct at the one measurement. As the spool decreases in diameter the measurement changes. One hundred feet at the calibrated distance is 100’, 180’ on the counter will not be 180’.
 

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The most important part is that they are all done the same, so when you catch fish at what 1 reel is reading you can send out another rod and replicate what is working. It doesn't really matter if the reel says 100' but if you measure it and its actually 110' etc. if all your reels are the same. The whole goal is same rods, same reels, same amount of line. Confidence in what is working to repeat sucess on other rods.

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The most important part is that they are all done the same, so when you catch fish at what 1 reel is reading you can send out another rod and replicate what is working. It doesn't really matter if the reel says 100' but if you measure it and its actually 110' etc. if all your reels are the same. The whole goal is same rods, same reels, same amount of line. Confidence in what is working to repeat sucess on other rods.

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Absolutely agree! Then we extend that logic to our group of buddies who also calibrate the same way so we can share information on what is working.


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The way I see it is that there's 2 way's to do this and they both work; 1 is to calibrate your reel exactly to the counter,50' line out read's 50' on the counter and 100' is 100' on your counter, the other way is to mark out in your yard 25' increment's with marker's out to 150' and record the line counter reading's at each increment and tape with packaging tape to your handle above the reel.I have used this method for year's just because of losing some braid from the reel. Ex: 25' of line out may read 32' on your reel and 50' of line out may read 68' on your reel.The most important thing is to know where your lure or dipsy is above the fish.Both method's work and your still gonna make some adjustment's to dial it in on active fish.This is in "My Most Humble Opinion" and 40yrs. of experience.I'm sure there are other method's out there that work also.
 

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I looked back at my notes and found this.

Okuma 30 series reels

Berkley Big Game 25 pound test 920 feet as measured on the line counter- really about 250 yards of line. Top with 150 yards of 30 / 8 Power Pro.

That should get you really close to being calibrated.
 

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Fishin-For-Fun
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The way I see it is that there's 2 way's to do this and they both work; 1 is to calibrate your reel exactly to the counter,50' line out read's 50' on the counter and 100' is 100' on your counter, the other way is to mark out in your yard 25' increment's with marker's out to 150' and record the line counter reading's at each increment and tape with packaging tape to your handle above the reel.I have used this method for year's just because of losing some braid from the reel. Ex: 25' of line out may read 32' on your reel and 50' of line out may read 68' on your reel.The most important thing is to know where your lure or dipsy is above the fish.Both method's work and your still gonna make some adjustment's to dial it in on active fish.This is in "My Most Humble Opinion" and 40yrs. of experience.I'm sure there are other method's out there that work also.
if you braid is new (or newer), just add to it with a line-to-line knot. the 30# braid that most of us use is more than strong enough even with a knot. i have one reel that has a wind knot in it at about 150' out and we have fished that all season...
 

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if you braid is new (or newer), just add to it with a line-to-line knot. the 30# braid that most of us use is more than strong enough even with a knot. i have one reel that has a wind knot in it at about 150' out and we have fished that all season...
wind knot
lubricate that with chop stick and pull ,it will come out.
 
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