snapped off steelies

Discussion in 'Steelhead Talk' started by BIgbassin07, Nov 29, 2007.

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  1. I am new to steelies this year and i have only caught one so far this year and snapped of what would have been my 2nd. i am only 21 and havent had much time to fish especially with finals coming up.... i am using a regular spin rod which is like 7ft with 8lb flourocarbon invisible line under a float. i have changed my set up from jig and maggot to sucker spawn and fly. i thought my drag was pretty good when i had the fish on the line but it was jumping like crazy... do steelies normally snap the line alot or was it my own doing, such as being too aggressive, not having enough drag, pulling to fast and being to eager..any help on this would be great good fishing everyont
     
  2. The warmer the water and fresher the fish = the harder they fight.....fish that have been in the river longer don't fight as hard (the darker ones), but they still have some shoulders....you could have done everything right and the dang thing just whooped you.....the one tip that I will give you is that river fishing can result in a lot of frays on your line especially using flourocarbon which frays even easier.....I actually quit using flouro in the rivers because of this and just stick to 6 lb mono.....check your line regularly for frays regardless of what you're using and be patient with it when you do set the hook.....the really fresh fish in water in the 50s can beat you up regardless!
     

  3. corndawg

    corndawg Go Bulldogs!!!

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    First off I’m no expert but in my opinion the combination of a fluorocarbon line that has very low stretch to it and a 7’ rod, there's not a lot of forgiveness when a steelhead bolts down stream. I’m not saying that a 7’ rod won’t work (I fished with my 7’ bass rod for years) but a longer rod will give you some shock resistance. Some guys like fluro as the main line but I prefer a mono or even a copolymer, where you get the best of both worlds, for the mainline. Then add a small swivel and tie on a 2-3’ leader of seaguar fluro to the hook, lure, fly whatever. This way I get the stretch and forgiveness of the mono and the abrasion resistance and water blending capabilities of fluorocarbon.

    I guess the best thing for you to do with your set up is to make sure your drag is set light at the beginning then it throttle up as your playing the fish. Just remember to pinch the line between your index finger and the rod on the initial hook set. Play the fish with a side to side motion with the rod, this tends to throw it off balance. Let the rod and the reel’s drag do the work but remember, the longer you play the fish the more spent it will be and can make reviving the fish (if you’re practicing C&R) difficult.
    My .02

    Jim
     
  4. Well, the drag should be set tight on the hooket with no slip and then let a bit looser while playing the fish. Also, playing the fish with a "side to side motion" with the rod is not the best idea as you will rip the hook out, keep your rod in one position unless the fish is really close. Dont try to turn the fish, just let it run and play it enough. Steelies are very strong but not magical, i float fish with a 9'6 light action rod with a lot of give and 6lb line and take it easy. Then i have a 7' HEAVY power baitcater setup for spoons/spinners and 20lb FC line and big treble hooks. I can horse them in with authority and even land a 10lb fish within about 15 seconds. Not as fun as a long soft rod. Just my 2 cents.
     
  5. corndawg

    corndawg Go Bulldogs!!!

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    While I agree that the drag should be, lets say snug, on the hook set then adjusted while playing the fish, this method would apply to a long soft rod of 9+ ft that will take the initial shock. My advice for a light drag start up was for a short rod with no spring to it and fluorocarbons line that doesn’t stretch. As far as the sides to side motion, it’s not to turn the fish, only to put it off balance during a run. It also keeps more of the line grounded in the water which helps to keep slack out of the line when the fish jumps. When I’m reeling in line I hold the rod tip up the majority of the time. I also agree that when they run you don’t want to try to stop them, let them run, but you do want to try to control it as much a possible. Just goes to show that there are many methods to catching this fish and as long as the method you use works, it’s all good.

    Jim
     
  6. My drag is pretty loose on the hookset, and then I adjust it even looser depending on the fight of the fish. When I have breakoffs, it's usually after the initial hookset. That's usually when the fish freaks out and makes all kinds of unexpected movements, sometimes going airborn. Once you calm it down, it's usually just smooth runs it goes on. People are suprised at how soft their mouths are. Many times the hook is in their mouth so snug I can barely get it out. With a long rod, you will get a better hookset, too.
     
  7. creekcrawler

    creekcrawler Konfused Kayaker

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    Our basic policy when steelheading is always check your drag before you start fishing. We've all lost a fish because we didn't do this. Drags get bumped,ect. Keep it loose, you can always add more tension with your hand, or crank it up later. Cant' do the reverse, if your drags too tight, you fish is gone..

    Also, set your drag by hooking your line to something and pull with the rod.
    The rod and guides add a significant amount of drag.
     
  8. First of all your rod should not have any "line slap" aka line contacting the rod itself and causing friction. Some guides have a lot less friction than others, a high end (loomis GLX, croix elite etc) rod with SiC guides will cause less friction than cheapo rod guides. Drag should be set at about 25% of breaking strenght of the line, so 6lb line= 1.5lb drag measure with a scale.
     
  9. First off let me stress one point, sharpen hooks, Check for nicks, and re-tie. Do it after every snag, hooked fish and landed fish. If you're using a shorter rod your drag must be set loose to begin with as the shorter rod will not give you as much time to re-adjust your drag quick enough if too tight. If your rod bends down sharply after hooking a fish and then jumps up as the drag goes out in spurts it's too tight, the rod should keep an even bend and pressure on the fish as the fish takes line smoothly out of your reel. Chip Porter who writes articles for Great Lakes Angler magazine and is a charter Capt once wrote that when the fish is running it's his turn let him run but when he slows, than it's your turn. Sharp hooks will penatrate even the hard boney areas with a loose drag. Your hooks should be lightly digging into your thumbnail when you lightly drag the point over it. Check your hooks right out of the package and you will find 90% of the time they need sharpening.
    Hope this helps.
    TRIPLE-J
     
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  14. I'd have to agree with Hollandbass here, I don't see where he said anything about snagging. He was just referring to the fact that spoons/spinners have trouble hooks and he happens to horse them in on his big setup. Doesn't sound fun like on light tackle, but definitely not illegal.
     
  15. Why is it some of the members here seem to look for a way to stir the pot by picking apart a post or a post reply? If someone makes a negative or borderline post or reply, why not respond once if you feel compelled to do so and the ignore any further comments.
    This was a well intentioned Thread which is rapidly turning into a pi$$ng contest which will end up getting no one, no where.

    With the above being stated I will add that I have caught a lot of steelhead with both flyrod, spinning rod and noodle rod. I see no need to crank down on the drag to get a good hookset if you are using a quality and properly sharpened hook. All a tight drag followed with a hard hookset does is weaken the knot. A firm lifting of the rod is all that is needed and the drag should make a smooth momentary slip. Improperly maintained drags will not have a smooth release and require much more initial pressure to release and then drop off to sustain during the run.

    NOW, can we get back to answering the initial question as asked in the opening post?
     
  16. Shortdrift, everyone was answering questions before that clown started throwing snagging accusations out. That’s a pretty serious charge in my book.
     
  17. I agree, but why not simply ignore the "clown" and continue with a good discussion on the initial subject.:confused: BTW.......hope you take the time to open and clean your drag components and keep it set light enough to release briefly on the initial hookup. Good luck on future trips.:)
     
  18. A couple of weeks ago while trolling Erie we had a small steelie jump, shake his head and snap a 20# mono leader. There was probably an undetected nick on the leader but it happens.
     
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  20. It's just an observation of your post PERIOD! Keep "reading" more into it if you want but I call it as I see it! You posted that, not me!
     
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