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Reef runners model 800 or 600?

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Discussion Starter #1
Hello guys, few questions so bare with me. Hope this is the proper forum as it pertains to Lake Erie West Basin. I'm docked at Catawba Island and I usually cast erie dearies or troll stingers behind dipsys. Always seem to fair ok with both the spoons and casting.

Wife HATES trolling but sometimes it pays off.

This year I purchased some offshore boards and loaded up on reef runners just to change the game a little. I have some learning to do as I have never used inline boards or reef runners.

I picked up around 20 model 800 reef runners in various colors and about 10 model 600 deep little rippers also in a few of my fav colors. The 600's I bought bc it was a deal I couldn't pass up. Im hoping to hear from you guys thay they are just as productive as the larger 800's

Are you guys catching fish on the model 600's or mainly the 800's?

Also what dictates what size you would choose and why?

Im sure I will have a dozen more questions regarding snap weights and depths but I will go one question at a time beginning with the reef runners.
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Thanks to anyone who takes the time to reply.
 

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There both good. The 800’s are a year round crankbait. In one of Jim Stedke’s winter seminars he discussed the concept of ‘Match the hatch’. That’s where the 600’s come into play. In general, up until June or so, the walleye are feeding on older larger baitfish and the 800’s prevail. Once young of the year baitfish start reaching a reasonable size, the walleye will feast on these smaller baitfish, so early to mid summer while there’s a lot of smaller baitfish in the system is the time to run those 600’s. You can inspect the bellies of caught fish to keep tabs on what they’re eating as the season progresses. I hope I relayed his information correctly. I followed the advice and it has worked for me.
 

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Your trying to go to school in the wrong section of ohub. This is fishing reports pretty much. Not to be mean. Right now a lot of people are wanting to get walleye. So here you'll only hear about numbers and colors.
 

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Both can be deadly. We usually start with 800's but many times the smaller 600's are better. Try both and let the fish tell you what they want. Also try the 600's when you are losing fish or just barely hooking fish - sometimes the smaller bait will result in better hook sets when fish are less aggressive.
 

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If there is a spoon bite going usually the 600's will go as well kind of the match the hatch theory from above
 

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Many folks have switched from Reef Runners to Deep Diving Bandits because of the tuning problem discussed above. I believe, as I believe most folks do, that Bandits require much less tuning resulting in more fish boated for the average guy like me.
 

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The bandits have been more productive the last few seasons over the reefrunners.Be sure to read Stedke midwinter walleye seminar in general discussions.Alot of great info on how to run cranks on inline boards.I believe watching the flag go down and the inline board get pulled back and down is the most visually coolest thing to see when a fish bites.Hopefully your wife will like it too.Takes a while to figure out how to run them,but think one of the best ways to catch these walleye.Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I will definately read that thank you for suggesting it. Waiting for 1 last package to arrive from reef runner and im done. Hoping they arrive before friday so I can give them a soak this weekend. Received some bandits today so will try running both.
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Tuning is important (like critical)! It sounds complicated but after you get onto it, it's not a big deal.
Start by checking the alignment of the line tie loop and the hook hanger loops. If they are misaligned with the centerline (seam) of the lure, straighten them. Then make sure the rattles aren't stuck in the chambers.

Then with around 8' of line out put the lure in the water at the side of the boat in non-turbulent water at trolling speed. If it wants to pull left gently pressure the line tie loop right and visa versa. I say gently because the worst thing you can do is over tune the lure because this weekens the loop to a point that it won't stay tuned. If you feel the loop move you've gone too far! And you'll need to go back the other way. This back and forth is what weakens the line tie loop.

Now gently surge the lure by swinging the rod forward and watch the lure. Adjust until it just speeds up and pulls straight.

After you feel you got the lure tracking straight, set it back 20 to 25' and reel it in . Make any needed final adjustments. If it comes straight to the rod tip, you're done.

A big reason theses lures works so well is because they have a tendency to kick out or dart left or right. This horizontal hunting action is unique to reefrunners and while it makes them tricky to tune, it also is a huge trigger in attracting strikes.

I will re-emphasize go slow making tiny adjustments. Do not over tune. I only put pressure on the loop, and never ever actually feel it move.

If you can tune a few in clear water (like in a pool) it will help you recognize what you're after.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Mr. Stedke , thank you for your reply. I appreciate your advice. I was directed to read one of your seminar threads and I'm half way through it. It is a goldmine of info. Also on a funny note I received a package of lures today and I think I recognize the guy on the cover of the catalog lol.

While I have you here , I have a question probably not covered in the seminar thread. I own a SEA RAY and had a hard time finding rod holders that wouldn't interfere with the roof and mooring covers. I bought a set up from great lakes planers that mounts on the back of the boat. (I will attach a picture) this was the only place I could put some rod holders. And being a caster it serves the purpose if keeping the rods out of the way while moving and also works good for telhe dipsys I pull.

I recently purchased some cranks and offshore inline boards and have not tried them yet. After reading and watching lots of videos I realize my rod holders being across the back of the boat are different than the usual side mounted rod holders.

When I try to run these boards from this style rod holders, do you see me running into a problem being the rods are all inline across the back? Once you see the attachment you will see what I mean. Will the boards be able to do their thing without the lines being tangled with this type of rod holder set up?

Also any tips you have as far as the angle I should run my rods Im all ears.

Im learning boards/ cranks from square 1 here and never considered my rod holders may not be ideal for the boards. I purchased 4 boards 2 right 2 left. I figured if this set up is not ideal the worst that can happen is I could only run 1 out each side .With dipsys in the center slots.

I planned on heading to some open water away from other boats and learning to use the boards and the cranks starting with line out / depth etc. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thanks for taking the time
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Discussion Starter #15
Uh-oh lol yes sir there are 4 rod holders in the only adjustability I have is the angle at which they stand
 

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Ok so if you raise the center holders to nearly verticle for the boards and run the dipsys off the angled holders lowered to a flatter position the board rods could clear over the top of the dipsy rods.

The thing is with the rearward angle the dipsy rods could slide out in a turn, so you'll have to either secure them or run the holders at a slightly higher angle to assure you'll not lose a rod.

All netting is going to be at the rear corners of the boat.

This is not ideal. But it is doable.
 

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Go to any harbor and look at the charter boats. They'll all have holders up the sides and the rear wide open for netting. Board rods in front of the dipsys. Dipsys run nearly horizontal but at 90 degrees to the line of travel.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Mr. Stedke I'm at foxhaven thats where I noticed my rod holders are not ideal.

Do you think I will be able to run 2 offshore planers off each side with no dipsys?
 

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JVI,
You can run two boards off each side as you are set up, but it is far from ideal. If you are looking to get a quick and inexpensive fix, you can buy 6 scotty/cabelas plastic quick draw rod holders and mounts and put three on each side. They may not last as long or be as nice as a cisco/cannon/berts aluminum holders, but it would be much better then your current set up in my opinion and pretty cheap. You can grab a 4 pack with mounts for $69.99 from Cabelas. Mine have held up to dragging inline boards with monster walleye, STHD and sheep heads on the line.
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