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rod holder mounting qusetion

Discussion in 'Boats and Motors' started by jeffmo, Jun 20, 2005.

  1. jeffmo

    jeffmo officially unofficial!!!!

    okay,after trying to figure out a good solid way to mount my rod holder bases(cabelas 360 h/t's) i am at a complete standstill.
    the gunnels on my boat are plenty wide enough for the bases and i'd like to bolt them on and it just doesn't look like i've got enough access on the underside to put the mounting plates and nuts on the bolts.i also have an issue of wiring and steering control cables being in the way on the drivers side too.on the passenger side i would have to cut away a small amount of the flotation foam to install the mounting plates.that's no real big deal but the drivers side is the one giving me fits.
    i thought about using self tapping screws and shooting them through the aluminum gunnels but i didn't think that would be a solid enough way of mounting them.just hate to have them end up loosening up on down the road then having to drill more holes and re-mount them.
    any ideas would sure be appreciated.
    thanks.
    jeff
    btw,i wish the rod holders were as easy to mount as the gps mount was.had that done in about 15 minutes. :)
     
  2. The gunnels my 16' starcraft are .080" thick aluminum (hull material) with carpet on top. I considered them too flexible/weak to simply bolt through. I also figured that self tapping sheet metal screws would pull out/loosen eventually as they have no nut/washer/backing. I considered machine screws with large washers and nuts, but figured that predrilled backing plates (about 4" x 6") with stasinless machine screws and lock nuts were nirvana. It was a huge hassle to mount my 4 Cabelas rod holders as I needed to remove hundreds of self tapping screws to get to underside of gunnels within the rod storage/steering cable/wiring areas. The side console was also unscrewed. They are solid and they need to be when trolling dipseys, snagging bottom of lake, hitting large fish, tearing rod out to set hook, etc.

    Find a way to do the job right and make double dog sure you have them located for convenience with trolling, drifting jigs (lazy man approach), etc. I have one on each side up front such that I can see the tip action while in the easy chair behind my console, but one is shifted forward so it can be used from casting deck seat. Other two are on each side in back corners for trolling straight back. You might also install holder for 3 or 4 rods, the vertical plastic tube type, for storing rods and net when in transit. Good luck.
     

  3. Can you use toggle bolts instead of screws? This would give you more surface area coverage on the underside and should hold up much better than screws. If you try toggle bolts you will probably need to stick a rubber or neoprene washer on to keep the toggle nut from slopping in circles.
     
  4. mrfishohio

    mrfishohio Recovering Fishaholic

    Toggle bolts require a huge hole and if there's styrofoam under it, you'll be cursing. I started to use them once & figured it out before I drilled the holes. Might work swell, just depends on your boat.
     
  5. Your boat sounds similar to mine with your comment about the gunnels. The surface on my boat is plywood covered with carpet. underneat it I have the wiring like you mentioned that is all sandwiched into the styrofoam. I was able to pull the surface off rather easily and stick a metal plate underneath. I am wondering if your would come off fairly easily as well?
     
  6. He mentioned aluminum gunnels. I would assume they are .070" to .100" thick. Self-tapping screws will work loose with vibration and possibly tear out at the worst time (big fish on). Even if they don't ter out, that's not a lot of meat to hold the rod holder for operating loads like snags, trolling dipseys, and the occasional big fish. Deformed aluminum gunnerl, news at 11:00...

    Toggles would spread load, but make for big holes in boat. I t took me some time to get up enough nerve to drill my virgin boat with much smaller holes. I'm not sure I've seen stainless toggle bolts either. SS machine screws, washers, and locknuts are desirable.
     
  7. I did a striper charter a couple of months back. The guide's boat (an otherwise nice Lund) had them held in with self-tapping screws...and about half of them had ripped out once before. There was one place where a 1" diameter chunk of the gunnel had completely ripped out. Made me wonder about the fish swimming around the lake with the rod, rod holder and part of his boat attached...
     
  8. Doctor

    Doctor CJ Cat Attack Pack

    I have Attwood rod holders on my boat, they are the recessed kind that sit flush on the gunnels looks like a factory installation, Lynn wanted a clean look for her boat not the bar across the back from our previous boat, had to bore a 3/4" hole in the boat then used long S/S machine screws so that they went thru the aluminum and into the wood, so far they have held up great, but we run light drag settings on the reels as the small Blues will pound a bait hard all the big Blues we have caught just ease the rod down slowly in the rod holder, I'm constantly checking them to see if they have come loose after a big fish hits but they are great, the bored hole in the gunnel makes a big difference as I had to force the base into the boat, each is held with 4 machine screws.

    They have been on the boat for 4 years and we have only snapped off one rod holder and I think that was a fluke type of thing.
     
  9. I have down-east salties on my boat mainly for trolling. My gunnel is about 3" wide with a skirt that runs around the inside edge, so I had to use the bolt on type. The area where the rod holders are mounted (44" from the transom) had very limited access without removing all the trim pieces again. I knew from refurbing the interior over the winter that there was no foam in there so I used these things called zip-toggles (I believe) I got from a local marine store (Sand Dollar). They are used mainly for seat bases, but I gave them a try anyway. They require a 1/2" hole the the toggle is tilted/slipped down through and a zip-tie like collar holds it tight to the gunnel. You can then use 1/4 stainless bolts down through the gunnel to hold them in place. The manufaturer puts the rating on each toggle at 400 PSI so the should be fine for my trolling with drags set light and clickers on. I plan on adding two more holders just forward of the console at some point. This area has much better access than the stern so what I plan on doing there is drilling 1/2" holes to match in a piece of 2" aluminum flatbar then running the toggles down through the gunnel and the flat bar to help distribute the force over a larger area. Someday, if I have to remove the skirt around the gunnel, I'll do the rear holder the same way.

    Barry
     
  10. sowbelly101

    sowbelly101 Keep'n It Reel

    here is a couple pics of how i mounted my tite loks. there on there good cause i jumped out of the boat ontime and got hung up on one. i was suspended in the air until i could get my foot on the trailer to get myself up. I still need to cut off the excess length of the stainless screws.

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    this mounting method is SOLID!!!!


    sowbelly
     
  11. jeffmo

    jeffmo officially unofficial!!!!

    thanks for the suggestions.i had the installation all figured out until i ended up laying on my back looking at the underside of the gunnels from inside the rod lockers.seems like monark(and other boat manufacturers)would kind of take these sort of things into consideration when they build the boat for fishermen and give us some easier options.
    i've thought about adding a railing to each side then mounting the rod holders to those but then again i'd have to secure the rails securely. :confused:
    i had backer plates(for the underside) made up at a metal shop that are 1" wider and longer than the bases so they'd be solid and i hate to not be able to use them.i can just picture a rod and reel headed over the side! :mad:
    it certainly isn't gonna get the best of me,just looks like it'll end up being more work than i thought at 1st.
    thanks again.
    btw,here's a pic if it helps.
     

    Attached Files:

  12. Doctor

    Doctor CJ Cat Attack Pack

    Jeffmo,

    Your boat is built just like mine my gunnels are 8 inches wide, I'll shoot you a picture tomorrow and show you how mine are mounted.
     
  13. Doctor

    Doctor CJ Cat Attack Pack

    Ok I'm just a few days late:D

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  14. jeffmo

    jeffmo officially unofficial!!!!

    thanks doc! i'm gonna get the bases attached sometime on sunday.i told the mrs. not to plan anything for me as i would be "unavailable" for several hours!
    it's not gonna be impossible,just a pain in the backside.
    i'll post some pics when i get them on.(hopefully!)
    thanks again for the help guys.