Replacing Boat Carpet

Discussion in 'Boats and Motors' started by rackman323, Jan 8, 2008.

  1. Anyone ever replaced their own boat carpet? I am considering doing this myself, but wanted to know what I might be getting myself into? Should I just leave this to a professional???
     
  2. K gonefishin

    K gonefishin Bit by Musky bug

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    I've done it, not to bad at all, simple tools, a little patience and your good to go. what kind of boat is it, brand, hull?
     

  3. freyedknot

    freyedknot useless poster

    the hard part may just be getting the old stuff up, unless it is loose already. but it is very do able.
     
  4. Toxic

    Toxic Defensor Fortis

    I would go with vinyl. But that's me.
     
  5. I replaced the carpet in my boat and it wasn't that bad at all........give me a call and I can tell you some real simple pointers!

    For glue - use the DAP contact cement.......coat both the deck/lids and the back of the carpet - let get "tacky" and put down..........works like a charm. You can even wrap your lids without clamping them. I found this out the hard way. I didn't use DAP for my first lid and it was a PAIN.......

    when you rip up your old carpet - keep them as one piece and don't cut them up - you'll use these as your template for the new.

    If you need help, give me a call....... can walk you through it and might even be able to sneak out to give you a hand. I did my boat (15') in a couple of days total time......wasn't bad at all.
     
  6. Trimmer

    Trimmer Visiting Site Owner

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    Hi Guys,
    Just a few tips on replacing your boat carpet..

    If you have used worm oil or fish scents that may have leaked on your carpet..
    you need to sand the floor after you remove the old carpet.. worm oil and scents
    will degenerate the plasticizers in marine carpet.. if you don't get this completely removed your carpet will release in a few months after its been replaced..

    how do I know this.. Besides being a guide I also own Southside Upholstery and Auto Trim, we do complete interiors on both car and boats.. we have been in business for 28 years and have replaced carpets in hundreds of bass boats

    we sand all floors and replace any part of the floor that is bad.. we also replace spray in floatation in boat that have had drainage problems..

    so to recap..
    remove carpet and trim, sand floor and check for weak spots, check drains,
    check to make sure you're not trapping water in the front of your boat.. if so the floor need a section removed and new drainage installed.

    contact glue is the best, sprayed on both halves .. the floor and back of carpet.. some boats require the lids taken apart some do not.. if you do the insides of box and storage you need to make sure they are clean and dry.

    good luck!

    Trimmer:D
     
  7. fishcrazy

    fishcrazy Muskie Chaser

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    Any imperfections in the floor will be magnified in the carpet. Also if you join the wood (Like only replacing the back half) Make sure your supports are under the seam and recomend a lap over joint.

    I learned the hard way, doesnt hurt the boat but I knew it was there!

    Fishcrazy
     
  8. KaGee

    KaGee Monkeywrench Staff Member

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    TIP:

    LOWES sells outdoor carpet by the foot. If you look at the tag it's rated for marine use as well. Much, much cheaper price than the "MARINE" grade carpets.
     
  9. I agree with Toxic - go with vinyl. :)
     
  10. Orlando

    Orlando Set The Hook!

    You get what you pay for in carpet. Trust me I have been in the flooring buissness for 27 years. Lowes amy have carpet suitable for Marine use but what they have is usually a thinner grade which will look bad in a few years. If you are going to all the trouble of recarpeting, bite the bullet and buy the best Marine carpet available. You will be glad you did in the long run
    Yes use contact on the lids, anywhere it has to be wrapped over. Just remember when that stuff sticks, its done no repositioning. I would use a regualar "outdoor" glue for the big open areas. Much more forgiving. Buy the proper notched trowel. Just guessing on the right amount and you are asking for trouble. To little and it will not stick or to much and it will ooze through. The proper trowel recommendation will be on the glue bucket. Just take your time don't get in a hurry.
     
  11. K gonefishin

    K gonefishin Bit by Musky bug

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    20 oz is good but 32 oz carpet is the best, the 32 is what comes in lunds, rangers and triton's, will hold up to power washing and many years of use.
     
  12. Orlando

    Orlando Set The Hook!

    I need to replace the carpet in my Ranger. Just something I have been putting off. Maybe all this talk about it will get me going
     
  13. So you're saying you can get a good price on carpet, huh Orlando???

    haha.......

    My brother in law recarpeted his ski boat - and bought WAY too much - so i got all his extra and did my boat for FREE. All it cost me was the cost of the contact cement.......and my time.

    He did buy this carpet through a flooring/carpet company - I actually worked the deal out for him and picked it up for him..........being in construction, i've got plenty of leads in the flooring trade!
     
  14. Thanks for the replies. For those who asked I have a 2001 ProCraft, 18'. I am the 2nd owner and the carpet is looking a bit raggity, so I thought if I can do it myself and at a decent cost I may take it on. Based on the responses I think that it is something I may take on as a winter project.

    I will definitely make sure I buy a high grade marine carpet, I just need to figure out what glue to buy. I have read online a few places that people use a roll on glue or spray on. I am not sure about the spray on though.
     
  15. gotta think about the temp you'll be doing all this in too......is your garage or where you'll be doing this heated?

    when I did my boat - I had a (don't laugh) kerosene heater cranked on high........which wasn't too smart because the fumes from the contact cement could have went "BOOM"........

    speaking of high...........make sure you're doing this in a well ventilated area too. My wife about kicked my butt hard because I did my lids in the basement - near the furnace, again not smart - and the fumes raced through the entire house.........we had to open windows in the dead of winter.

    I never said I was the sharpest tool in the shed............
     
  16. Trimmer

    Trimmer Visiting Site Owner

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    Just a few things that might be worth bringing up..
    Orlando is right about "you get what you pay for" Carpet is rated two ways
    one is weight usually in oz.. but this is not the only way to judge carpet..
    Carpet is also rated in thread count per inch.. when we talk about weight many times the reference is more about the thickness of the backing than the actual thread count..
    Thread count is important because when we cover say a live well lid.. we don't want the backing to show through as we go over the corners and bends where the carpet is bent to cover irregular shapes..

    Glue.. always use contact cement.. roll on or brush on is OK but you need to make sure you get coverage with out large puddles of glue that might bleed through.. we use commercial spray on glue but is is not something most people are set up for..

    about replacing all or part of the floor.. the floor can be pieced together
    but double stringers need to added to spliced areas..(never use CDX plywood)(always use BC or other exterior grade) we biscuit and fiberglass
    all seams, new wood to be added is coated with one coat of water sealer
    then covered with two epoxy resin.. the bottom side is done before its installed.. topside is done once the repair is done..( also, never use Pressure treated wood) why? because for one pressure treated wood is green and will warp and buckle on the floor..the other reason is pressure treated wood is treated with poisons the point is to kill bugs.. this is not a good thing to have on the floor of your boat with standing water in the summer sun tends to leach out the poison and you may be in your bear feet.. this could make you sick.. remember 200 people died from eating from pressure treated picnic tables, this force a change in pressure treated process to help make it safe

    If the floor is removed drainage needs to be checked to make sure water is getting to the aft section where is can be drained.. trapped water is the biggest cause of bad floors

    air temp for replace carpets should be above 65dreg.. I prefer 70 to 80
    because contact glues need a flash time before they are put together
    if you do the job under 65 dregs.. what will happen is as the carpet heats up
    and does get to 80 to even 90 which is not uncommon in the summer.. the gas
    trapped in the glue will start to escape sometimes this happens with no ill effects but we have seen the carpet raise and cause a bubble where the gas is trapped.. its fixable but not something you want to happen on a new carpet job..

    By the way here is a link to an article I wrote about turning a john boat into a fishing machine
    the carpet installation is part of the article
    http://kentuckyanglingforum.yuku.com/topic/2553


    Good Luck
    Chris "Trimmer" Erwin
     
  17. Flashball

    Flashball Banned

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    forget what the replacement carpet is..........

    removal of the old stuff is where the work and patience lies....

    Starcraft OEM screw bolts their folds on the fore and aft decks right through the carpet, as well as the Swiveleze floor plates. I have removed staples, wood screws, as well as nuts, bolts, and washers.
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2010