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Re-Doing my Aluminum Semi-Vee had a a couple of ?'s

Discussion in 'Boats and Motors' started by Steelwolve, Jan 14, 2008.

  1. Steelwolve

    Steelwolve COCC- Director

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    Ive Striped my 1963 14ft Aluminum Semi-Vee Down to the bare metal, Im planning on putting hippoliner (cheap Rhinoliner)on the floor which is too shallow for decking. But I am adding in some custom underseat Storage units and a 27 gallon livewell/baitwell which will be removable. I am wondering your thoughts on what type of building material to use. I am severley limited on funds so wood is probally my only option. If I use wood, what kind and is the best way to protect it Poly? Or maybe a waterseal product is better? Both? Id like to make it easy to clean since I primarily catfish. I do not want to carpet it. Also where ive removed all the old wood around the upper lip I have a bunch of screw holes (well above the water line) and figured id patch them with a JB weld type product then sand and paint. Is that the best way? And lastly for the exteroir hull do I have to buy a special type of paint? I was planning on priming it and then hitting it with a bucket of housepaint, but I figured I better ask. Thanks for any responces.
     
  2. i think there is a special paint you use for boats i am new to it myself but i think polyurethane there will be many guys on here that will know and they will chime in........Mike
     

  3. About 15 years ago i put a new transducer on my aluminum boat and the holes didn't match up. I used a product similar to j b weld but it comes in 2 small cans. I was concerned because the holes were below the water line but its held just fine all these years. I'm sure there maybe better products to use but it worked for me. Since your above the waterline it should work fine.

    I have seen posts on other boards that say do not use pressure treated wood that will touch aluminum because of the chemicals used to pressure treat the wood.
     
  4. Wannabitawerm

    Wannabitawerm Flatulent Entreprenuer

    I would seal the wood with a fiberglass resin. The only downside is you would have to make sure it is UV resistant. UV rays will destroy resin. Marine varnish should work fine, just give it as many coats as you can. As far as the hull, I would use a can or Rustoleum enamel myself. If you're gonna brush or roll it on, Thin it just a little to eliminaye brush strokes. As far as the lining, they had a duck boat at the boat show with the spray in liner. Should work like a champ.

    As far as sealing holes, they have that plumbers putty, 2 part stick at Home Depot. Mix until white, fill the holes and let it dry. That might work.
     
  5. OSU_Fisherman

    OSU_Fisherman Bassin' Buckeye

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    I recently re-did a 14' aluminum jon boat. I haven't yet done the inside with a Herculiner-type product because I'm still looking for something that is a reasonable price that I can get in a grayish color.

    For the exterior paint, I went to my local autoparts/autobody shop and had them mix me up some of the exact some paint that is on my 2000 Dodge Dakota. Primed the boat with a couple cans of etching primer and then sprayed on the auto paint. Worked awesomely and matches my truck great. Check out the before and afters in my gallery.

    Good luck with your restoration, post some before and after pics!
    -Jason
     
  6. SwollenGoat

    SwollenGoat Scourge of Hoover

    I would suggest looking into synthetic lumber like they're using on decks nowadays. Completely rot and water proof - so you could power wash the whole rig and not worry about it.. It is a bit more expensive and heavier, but for the long run it would be a wise investment. I know my local Home Depot carries it.
     
  7. Steelwolve

    Steelwolve COCC- Director

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    Thanks for the replys, After reseaching a little more I realized that painting an Aluminum Hull requires alot more than I originally planned. After reading an article the author made it sound like I needed to have a paint room, a high velocity paint gun/ with 300 psi compressor, acid etch, 2 part epoxy primer, then several coats of marine paint, followed by clear coat. All of this is way outside of my budget. I am getting married this fall and Fiance' has my fishing budget on LOCKDOWN. I am litterally trying to get this done with a$200 lowes gift card. lol:D I realize that the painting steps listed above are the Proper way to acheive a long lasting high quality paint job, but I was wondering more along the lines of what have people tried that may have worked out ok for a few seasons. I do have a 3 gallon 150 psi compressor, so if I need to by a cheap paint gun I can.

    As for the composite decking, I have not seen it made in plywood style sheets anywhere, only in 2x4 and 2x6 and 4x4, but have not asked. Do they make a 4'x8' sheet say 3/4" thick?

    Can anyone suggest a inexpensive brand of marine varnish. To protect marine grade plywood. If I cant find sheets of the composite it sounds like thats my best option.

    I will post some pics (hopefully within 6 weeks) when im done. Thanks again for the info and suggestions.
     
  8. fishingful

    fishingful Time to fish!

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    the proper way to seal a box like that is to glass it in but it can get expensive

    i did the transom on a row boat years ago i sealed it with cwf i believe stay away from cheep stuff with wax in it like tompsons get an OIL stain and coat it as manny times till it wont take the stain any more i did this on that boat and it still lasting un protected 12 years later

    the other option is using lexan to make the boxes but you will need to support the box it would be ez to clean

    dont use plexi glass it will break lexan dosent

    ohhhh i had an idea..............bing...................make the box and cover it in the rino liner it will match and should seal the wood up

    also watch how much foam you take out god forbid the boat takes on water you will sink like a rock and the law can get you if you dont pass coastgaurd specs

    painting alum.................well i have never had luck with that i tried polly floor enamal hard as hell on the floor but after a year in the weather it started to peal off but it worked well on my tracker but that was stored indoors
     
  9. BigChessie

    BigChessie BIG PIMPIN' "GIGELO"

    Spend $100 and apply steel flex to the hull. Best product on the planet. Will make your boat totally bulletproof. It is used on just about every single air boat in Florida and all the mud motor boats in the swamps. I applied it on 2 of my boats and ran the Scioto river (nothing but gravel and rocks) with my mudmotor without every having a problem. Makes the bottom of the boat around 60% slicker and will never chip or leak. I went as far as to smack it with a sledge and did not even leave a mark. You can also get it tinted if you want color. Below is where I got mine. As far as the interior, I used several coats of rubber bumper coating(spray cans at wally world) which deadened the sound. Then used paint with play ground sand in it to make it non-slip. Good luck! BC
    http://www.fascoepoxies.com/
     
  10. SwollenGoat

    SwollenGoat Scourge of Hoover

    Can't say I've seen it in sheets that big - mostly been plank sized boards etc. 1x4, 1x6, 1x8 and 2x4, 2x6 etc.... Somebody might now if the 4x8 sheets are available.
     
  11. there is a material called azak comes in 4x8 sheets basically the same stuff as schedule 40 plastic pipe a sheet will tear up your budget only seen it in a thickness of .75 of an inch