Question about Vinyl Flooring

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by TomC, Jan 29, 2008.

  1. I am looking at replacing the flooring in the kitchen of my house. I was at lowes and they have a Armstrong Vinyl flooring in what they call an Ashton color/brand. Its a glueless type that uses a Glass-Tac type of double sided tape.

    Has anyone used this sort of stuff or anyone have any input about this type of flooring.
  2. I have not used that specific type but have used glueless, perimeter glue and regular full spread glue flooring. I take care of apartments so I see alot of abuse and neglect in units where the renters treat everything as "It aint mine", type attitude. In all of my cases the vinyls that are not full glue end up getting torn by appliances. Be it a stove or fridge. They all had a tendincy to have a little slack and when something heavy would get slid or turned it would ruin the floor.

    The only exception I have seen is a completely glueless vinyl. It is very thick and heavy duty. I installed this in one kitchen because the piece needed was almost 13ft wide and the vinyl was imported and made in metric measures so it was a better fit with no seems. This stuff seem great so far but it does need shoe or base around it more so than glue down. Hope this helps.

    MIght ask Blue Dolphin his opinion, I believe he in the flooring buisness.


  3. Tom i do flooring for a living the tape is a pain in the but to get it to stick to the floor. the material itself isnt bad but the tape can drive ya crazy. i would suggest a full spread or normal perimeter glue that uses 670 armstrong adhesive.Any other questions feel free to ask. Gary Zart Blue Dolphin
  4. If you're talking about 12x12 tile I didn't have much luck with keeping it from sliding. It has to be installed very tightly and that was difficult to cut perfectly. Personal experience here says that vinyl sheet is a much better option.
  5. Thanks Blue Dolphin i wa at lowes looking at the sheets that they have and it seemed easier to install. I was planning on useing it in two bathrooms. It was an Armstrong, Ashton was the pattern name i believe and it was 42bucks for 5 linear square feet.

    I was looking at 190 bucks for 168sf to redo the kitchen, and that was the type that needed to be glued.

    Would this type be appropriate for bathrooms? Or should i just stick with the regular sheeting that you have to glue down???

    Also Gary do you live near the Dayton area???
  6. Orlando

    Orlando Set The Hook!

    I ahve 27 years experience in the flooring trades. Stay away from anything but full spread. Also remember, you get what you pat for! You can skimp on cost in a bathroom but upgrade the vinyl in the kitchen. If there is vinyl down now over wood subfloor I strongly suggest you put down 1/4 inch underlayment first. Ther is way to much for me to go into here on this psot.
    If you have never installed vinyl flooring before do the easiest room first. You may decide to hire someone to do it. Good luck on your project
  7. Totally agree. Often it's easier in a small bath to pre-cut the vinyl too. Strike a line down your two longest areas, make sure it's square. Then take corresponding measurements to every cut out. Transfer those lines to your vinyl, measure and mark the same lines. If this is your first time, I'd add 1/8" to all your measurements, cut off all excess, roll lengthwise, check fit.I then like to only glue half the floor at a time, while keeping something heavy on the unglued side to keep it from shifting. Don't forget to roll it when done.

    On a side note, if you're installing, pick a piece of vinyl with a non-descript pattern, IE: No tile pattern etc. That way if your don't get it square in the room it won't show. Good luck, vinyl is often better left to professionals.
  8. One of the bathrooms is a wood subfloor the other bathroom and kitchen are on a slab foundation. Both bathrooms are going to be gutted, si i wont have to worry about cutting around anything except for the edges. In the kitchen the only thing i will have to cut around is a section of cabinets that are in one corner.

    If i had the bathrooms guttted out and the kitchen ready to go what do yall think someone would/should charge to install it???
  9. Hetfieldinn

    Hetfieldinn Staff Member

    I'd throw some ceramic tile down and be done with it. Especially on the slabs. You can get nice tile starting at around 70 cents a piece. A couple tiles, some thinset, a bag of grout, and call it a day.

    I just did my dining room for about $200. $50 of that was for backer board, which you wouldn't need.
  10. I also am in the flooring business. MHO is STAY AWAY FROM VINYL AT ALL COSTS!!!! Laminate is easy to install and affordable. (if not, its worth the money in the long run). You will NEVER have to replace it unless your house burns down. And you need a bulldozer to damage it.

    Vinyl is a quick, cheap fix. Its like wallpaper for your floor....and acts like it too!!
  11. Orlando

    Orlando Set The Hook!

    I completely disagree. There are high quality vinyl floors that will last longer than you care to look at them. Again, you get what you pay for.There are cheap laminates that look shot in a few years.Agian, you get what you pay for., Vinyl flooring has come a long ,long way since I started in the buisness. A laminate floor is more of a do it yourself project than viynl sheet goods anyday. Some lamintes are not designed to be in bathrooms around moisture. If there is viynl flooring down now over the concrete slab it should be removed before another vinyl or ceramic floor is put down. This can be a very tough job, better left to the professional.
  12. Orlando, Nothing beats ceramic or hard wood for wear and longevity. But laminate will outperform a cheap vinyl 10 fold. Your right about expensive vinyl wearing and performing good, but its very expensive cause floor prep is more important and labor is of higher.
  13. Orlando

    Orlando Set The Hook!

    Labor isn't higher for viynl in my area. I get $7.00 per yard for viynl, thats labor only no materials of any kind, and $2.50 per ft for laminate. You have the same prep on cheap viynl as you do on expensive vinyls. There is some prep to laminates also. Floor must be level, all low spots must be filled and high spots sanded down. I don't care much for laminates because they have a hollow sound to them when walked on. For the same price of a top line laminate you can almost put down solid 3/4 hardwood As far as laminates being indestructable that just isn't so. Thats how laminates got a bad rap. Uninformed sales pepole saying you can't scratch or dent it. Thats a bunch of bull. Yes it is tough but can scratch almost as easy as hardwood. Bad thing if you scratch laminate its work to fix, with hardwood a little stain will hide the scratch.
  14. I just want to put the sheet stuf fdown until we can afford some real good tile. We are already doing 14,500 worth of work to the residence. The bathrooms i could care less whats in there but for 42 bucks im all for it. The bathrooms will be gutted so it will be easy to install plus i have a roller.

    Id like to go with some hard wood or wood laminate in the kitchen but from what ive read no one recomends it.

    But i am gona take the advice and stay away from the no glue type of flooring. Glue is only 4.50 and ive already got trowls for it.
  15. willy

    willy no boat

    I remodeled a bathroom for a friend a few years ago in a mobile home and this worked out really well for the sheet vinyl (no seems to minimize water issues, old trailer, least expensive option). I grabbed a bunch of free papers, or news papers would work, then laid them out sheet by sheet around the perimeter of them room and taped them together very well. Rolled out the vinyl right side up on a flat surface (living room floor) , let it rest, rolled out the pattern that i made on top of it then taped the inside edges of the paper so it wouldnt shift and cut it with an inch or so extra (this vinyl had a very light tile pattern so i lined the door edge with the pattern). Then rolled the cut out vinyl out in the bathroom (which I had gutted) and again let it rest to relax it. centered it by "eyeball'in it" then starting at the doorway as my "strait edge" took my time to trim the edges a bit at a time until it fit close but not to tight.
    This was an older mobile home with issues so NOTHING was square which was the whole purpose of the paper pattern that i made, but it came out very nice and I think "eye ballin'it" was the key because that's what everyone will see when they walk in the room.
    I'm not sure if this will help you at al but it may help someone reading this thread, good luck to you.
  16. Totally disagree! Laminate doesn't belong in any bathroom IMO. Wood and water don't mix. Nothing beats vinyl for water containment. Old inlaid vinyl wears like Iron and has and will outlast any laminate. Bathrooms should be Tile or Vinyl. Bets of luck to you TomC and just take your time.

    Your floor is only as good as your prep!
  17. Orlando

    Orlando Set The Hook!

    Some laminates are rated for bathrroms with moisture as long as the yare sealed around the edges with silicone before the baseboard is put back on. Otherwise I totally agree with you dakotaman, sounds like maybe you are one of the few who understand the flooring trades
  18. I know, but tell that to your customer and they will be out there with a string mop soaking it down. Armstrong warants theirs against pet urine. I put it in a house for a lady who runs a kennel and I had to replace it twice because it was swelling at the seams. Armstrong paid for it but why take a chance. Especially when vinyl or ceramic are far better in a wet/damp environment. I just hate doing things twice so that's why I never recommend laminate in full bath's.

    Same to you.
  19. Orlando

    Orlando Set The Hook!

    I know what you mean about Lams. Personally I try and talk poeple out of them alltogether. I was sugesting it here because it is a semi user friendly do it yourself material.
  20. We just got back from lowes and we r going with the vinyl sheet flooring. I understand that the floor has to be completely clean. Once its clean and theres no old vinyl down, i use the trowl to put down the glue. I was reading and the glue has to set for about 10-15min, why?

    THen when i start putting the sheet down do i start rolling it as its being put down or wait till its all down?

    Then once its all down is there anything that i should do for the edges to make sure that they stick and do not roll up or come up at the edges like ive seen some do.