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Painting Help Needed

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by olwhitee, Feb 23, 2005.

  1. I got a paint situation going on. We bought some new paint to paint the bathroom, seemed easy enough. After I masked everything off, removed towell racks etc, I start to paint. After a minute I realize two things. I cannot paint a straight line, I keep getting paint on the white ceiling. Secondly, I notice that the paint that is on the wall is showing through my new paint. The people we bought the house from did some dumbfangled sponge treatment to the walls. They put a 2nd color on with a sponge after they painted the wall white first. The part that they sponged on is bleeding through.

    How do I paint the trim as to not get paint on the ceiling, and what do I need to do about this other paint showing through?

    Any tips, or suggestions are greatly appreciated, cause then I can pretend that I figured it out by myself, and the boss (wife) will never know the diff.
  2. If you are not good with a brush an edger will work wonders for you. It is an applicator with a short bristle brush on one side and plastic handle/frame on the other with wheels to run along ceiling. Prime the walls with a good blocking primer to save alot of time time and headaches.


  3. crankus_maximus

    crankus_maximus Crankus Baitus Maximus

    #1. Try a primner over the old stuff. You need something new to stick to. Another option is sanding, but that kinda sucks. Try "Killz" for a primer.

    #2. Tape the ceiling, or paint into the ceiling and then mask the wall/trim when you're done and paint the ceiling too. Thats what I do. That way everything is done right (MY WAY - he!).

    Good luck.
  4. I think them edger things are more of a pain than anything. They seem nice at first and when you get too much paint on them they go to hell quick because they just make a mess. Here are a few rules.

    1) You get what you pay for. Buy good paint, a decent roller and a nice 2" angled brush that will allow you to do a decent job against the ceiling. These brushes are about $8 at Lowe's and are well worth it. If your right handed start from your left and stroke to your right. If you are a real idiot, you could hold up a piece of cardboard or something on the ceiling but if you're using the right brush you don't have to do that. I have no artistic ability whatsoever with the exception of knowing Karate but I can paint given the right supplies. There are angles you must learn to hold the brush and once you do that you can cut a ceiling in very good. Unless you're drunk like me half the time.

    2) As for the old paint showing through, it don't take no Einstein to figure that one out. It needs more paint. No matter how good the paint and no matter the color, and no matter how generous you apply the 1st coat, it always seems like I can't get by with just one coat. The 2nd coat always look so much better.

    I'm getting ready to do a little painting myself. And don't forget, most paint stores, I know Sherman Williams does will tint your primer for you. That is the only way to get by with one coat. But I typically only use primer on virgin drywall.
  5. crankus_maximus

    crankus_maximus Crankus Baitus Maximus

    Ditto on the quality paint supplies. I have "fuzzies" all over my bathroom wall thanks to an el-cheapo roller.
  6. Hook N Book

    Hook N Book The Original Hot Rod Staff Member

    Dito...Can't make it much more simplier then that for the edging!

    Also, you'll either need a good primer or 2-3 coats of paint before applying the finish coat.
    Finally, use high quaility won't be sorry.

    PS...If all of the above fail to deliver the desired results...hire a professional painter! :D
  7. Don't hire no pro painter kiddo unless you want your wife to think you're a real failure. It ain't nothing to get stressed over. There will be a lot more home improvement things along the way that are stress worthy.

    That Kilz primer is pretty good. Especially if you have a water damaged ceiling or something cause it covers the water stains real good. It looks real watery like it wouldn't even stick on the walls but it does the trick but I definitely would not use it just to do a paint job because its too expensive. But if you have already slapped on coat of paint on it I wouldn't worry about priming it now because you should have done that first. Too bad we don't live close as I have the painting supplies (brushes, rollers, paint poles, plastic) you need and about 10 gallons of primer. And I have lite green, lite yellow, baby blue, and tan paint. But good thing for the internet because I can give you great advice.
  8. Ok, I just checked, and after it dried , it looked a lot better, after another coat I will be set.

    The ceiling is another story.

    I got a lot of light blue paint on the ceiling, to put it lightly. Can I just keep on going and go back and pait the ceiling white, or will the blue show through?

    Sorry to be so slow, my first time
  9. Hook N Book

    Hook N Book The Original Hot Rod Staff Member

    What's proximity have to do with it??? Why not just go ahead and hook the brother up!!!! :D
  10. Well Olie, I'd say your gonna need the Kilz primer now more than likely to stop the blue from showing through on the ceiling because it sounds like you did a real butcher job on her. Its much MUCH easier to take care of the ceiling now than to go back and try to paint the ceiling white after the wall have been freshly painted blue. But....if you want, finish slopping the paint on the walls, get the Kilz Primer and run a piece of thin cardboard perpindickular (against the wall) to the ceiling and paint over the blue paint on the ceiling if its as bad as you represent. And be careful as you don't want to ruin your nice blue freshly painted walls.
  11. thanks for the help guys, leave it to me to take a seemingly simple task and make an event out of it.....

    guess that makes me a fisherman, right?
  12. steelmagoo

    steelmagoo Enjigneer

    Kilz is a sealer for blocking stains and stuff that will migrate/bleed through paint like water stains, oil, ink. Unless the old stuff is actually migrating through your topcoat I wouldn't use it. It is more likely that you don't yet have enough film thickness to hide the old finish. Recoat. On the other hand, in the unlikely event the old faux finish was done with universal tint only (no glaze or paint binder added) the tint might bleed through, and you would need something like Kilz or Sherwin Williams Preprite Pro-Block.
  13. If you have the ceiling white you should be fine hitting the blue a couple times. I say this because I make my living painting (unforuntiatly) :) . It sounds like you are doing just fine. Just keep at it and the boss will never know you do not know what you are doing lol. Slow and steady on the corners and you will be ok.
  14. This is all good advice. I read this post with interest because I am in the middle of a painting project that sounds much like Olwhitee's. I have done a fair amount of painting as well and mos of the advice here sounds consistent with what I have done. That makes me feel good that I must be doing something right.:D I second the suggestion by Steelmagoo. I think the Kilz is not necessary unless you have stains or actual bleeding through. If you do by chance need to use the Kilz I would suggest that you go with the oil based type (I believe this is the BIN product). It is more of a pain to work with but it really seems to cover stains much more effectively.

    Don't feel bad about the overpaint errors. I have been creeping along using an edger in my room to neatly paint and not disturb the wallpapaer border that is along the top. This obviously takes quite a bit of additional effort to accomplish. Well after I had finished the first coat my wife says, "That really looks great but I think I am going to have to change the border.":eek: Needless to say I was not the happy camper at that point because I would have been much happier to be able to pull the border and paint it all with the roller.:(
  15. great stuff. a free buzz w/every application :D make sure you ventilate
  16. Elamenohpee

    Elamenohpee Banned

    Finish your 12 pack at least 3 hours BEFORE you attempt this difficult maneuver.
    try using lower wattage light bulbs or just put sunglasses on before you go into the there anything in there you really want to look at anyway??? ;)
  17. I must be a moron, you can buy an edger for like 3 bux, I thought they cost a bunch of dollars. All this trouble and I could of had a

    I know someone suggested it earlier, but it never lit a fire until now.

    I gotta get to bed, maybe the paint will fall off and I can start over
  18. Hetfieldinn

    Hetfieldinn Staff Member

    BIN is an alcohol based product, meaning that you will need denatured alcohol to clean up tools, spills, hands, whatever. Bin is also about $18-$20 a gallon. Major ventilation is needed when using Bin. It will literally take your breath away, make you sick, and give you a serious headache.

    Kilz is another stain blocker. Oil based. Clean up with mineral spirits or paint thinner. Ventilation also required, and recommended. Not near as bad as Bin, but still can be quite noxios to newbies. About $9 a gallon.

    There is no quick gimmick or tool for a neat cut job. A high quality brush is the only way. Buy a high quality 2 1/2" angled sash brush, and take your time. Most likely you are using a latex paint (water based). Clean the brush out well with warm, soapy water. Wooster makes a top notch brush. They keep them in the back room of Sherwin Williams, cause they want you to buy their brushes.

    I strongly recommend pole sanding before, and between coats. You can buy a pole sander at paint stores, and Home Depot for abou $15. Put some 100 grit paper on it (precut pieces are available), and go over the whole area to be painted. Pole sanding will get rid of all the hairs that the guy before you left when he painted using a 79 cent roller. It will also let the new paint bond better to the wall.

    Use a high grade roller cover, 3/8" or 1/2 ". Spend at least $6 on one. You'll thank me later.

    Unless you are painting the walls the same color as they were, there really is no "one coat hiding" paints, I don't care what the can says.

    Buy an extension pole for your roller frame. It will keep you from bending over every twenty seconds to load the roller, and it will be easier to paint the walls, let alone ceilings. You'll cut a third of your time off the job.

    If you have any spackling to do, hit it, let it dry, give it a quick sanding, and brush a thin coat of paint over it (prime it). This will keep the area from flashing. This step isn't extremely important when using flat paint, but if you are using satin, eggshell, or semi-gloss, the spackled area will stand out like a sore thumb.

    A quick cutting in tip is this. Pour about 4" of paint into a clean one gallon bucket. Dip the bruch down about 1/3-1/2 way up the bristles. Tap each side on the inside of the can, then wipe the side of the brush that will be against, or towards, the ceiling. Start applying the paint about 1/2" away from the ceiling line, push the bristles towards the ceiling, then slowly start your straight line. You'll probably be able to go about 18-26" with each load. Once you get a decent line going, come back with a decent brush load of paint, and use the whole width of the brush along your new line to give you something substantial to roll up to.

    I hope some of this helped.
  19. Is helping more then you guys would know, thanks a ton
  20. Wow Olwhitee! You are getting a ton of tips here. It sounds like these guys have been through many of the learning experiences that you are going through. The nice thing about painting is that there is pretty much always a way to fix it if you screw it up.:D

    Hetfiledinn is right on with the cleanup for the oil based primers. That is a real pain in the behind. I usually try to get all of my priming done at once when using those products so that I don't have to clean up more than once. I do prefer the oil based primers though for effectiveness particularly if you are dealing with much in terms of water stains. I just hate to paint only to see marks come back.

    Another tip on the use of latex paint and cleaning up. If I finish up painting for the day and I know I will be getting back into it the next day or so. I will take my brushes and rollers and put them in an airtight sealed bag. They will not dry out this way and I don't have to clean them up until I am done for good. In fact I have a bag sitting at home now waiting for me to finish up tonight.:D