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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok using Createx water base on metal blades. Finally getting a little bit of a hand on airbrushing. But still having problems.
One is I keep getting spots where the paint just flakes off like it won't stick. But i have tried automotive prep to remove grease and oil, Also , windex, Isopropyl alcohol. Nothing seems to work.
Another problem is masking. I still get paint underneath sometimes. May fall back to question one.
The process i'm using could be wrong also. But this is it. Clean or soak, Prime if needed and let set till dry 24 hrs.
Painting I have tried letting set but now use heat gun between coats. Seems to be the same.
The result isn't pretty. Probably catch fish i imagine. But definately not what i want. Im posting this pic for review and to see if i can get some help.
Or should I just buy enamel paint? Sorry for the cell pic but its good enough to see how bad! :(
 

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Have you tried using an acid to etch the metal? I know that you are cleaning the metal but sometimes you have to rough up the surface a little for just the paint to stick, the primer is designed to bond to a smooth surface. You could use a really fine sandpaper to condition the surface but I do know that they have special acids for steel and aluminum to put a fine texture on the surface. I hope this helps but that is what I would try


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Lure Junkie
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Your putting too much paint on at one time...airbrush is slow application and detail...make a pass on a blade then wait or hit it with a hair dryer then go back over it again...blades are very tedious work and I like to paint least a dozen or more one color...

Pink Red Magenta Plant

Bait Fishing lure Sports equipment Fishing bait Spoon lure

Fashion accessory Gemstone Oval Metal Art

Organism Pupa





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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Lately i have been soaking in vinegar,using rubbing alcohol or coating with a etching primer. Primer seems best.
I think Carpetbagger may of hit on it. I do get in a hurry sometimes. Not really sure i guess what a light coat really is. I've never seen another paint them. Sometimes i use a blower to dry. But at what point is dry enough.
Carpetbagger that pink and green willow leaf with black spots. Did you mask or freehand the pink and green? Is it just allowed to blend?
One of these days when i feel better i would love to watch someone else paint blades.

When you first coat say a silver blade is it a mist you really can't see or do you pain till the color is present? Thinking maybe i need to try just spraying till i see it damp, then dry and do again. But this would seriously make a long job! LOL!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Createx has another line of airbrush paints called Auto-air and Wicked Colors that are formulated to use on metal. Regular Createx is for surfaces like wood and cloth.
see:
http://www.createxcolors.com

Surface prep is always key to any kind of painting and it is always a PIA.
Yes im aware they are for cloth and wood more. But after asking a lot of people they mostly all use he regular. must be a good reason i figure.
 

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Shoot Um' Hook Um'
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A lot of good points. Metal is a different cat and messing with my cars and painting on them from years gone by. After I clean a metal surface i fog the first coat of sealer or primer on lightly. This way, the primer will dry very quickly. The Createx should not pull up any paint after priming because it is water based. The key is lightly spray your paints and let them dry or heat gun them lightly as mentioned. If you are in too big a hurry the finished product will be what I call "crap" Just me talking.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This is their own labing saying water is made for metal too! Thought i would recheck.



Set of 6 Primary Color Set Createx Airbrush Paint 2 oz (60ml) Bottles, Choice: Transparent or Opaque

Lot includes your choice: Transparent: red, blue, green, & yellow and Opaque black & white or Opaque: black & white, red, blue, green, & yellow
Water-based
Non-toxic.
Createx works on fabric, wood, leather, canvas, plastics, aluminum, metals, ceramic, clay, poster board, brick, plaster, latex, glass and more.
I have no additional information of what other surfaces can be used.
Any questions, please email.

Manufacturer info: Createx Airbrush Colors are the number one, most widely used and trusted professional airbrush paint in the world. Made with light-fast pigments, durable resigns and quality ingredients. Colors are water-based, non-toxic and meet ASTM D-4236 standards. Colors include Opaque, Transparent, Fluorescent, Pearlized and Iridescent Colors.

Createx Airbrush Colors are designed for permanent results with a soft-hand feel on fabrics. Colors cure with the assistance of heat after drying. The use of heat to cure colors is one of the main differences between Createx Airbrush Colors and Wicked & Auto Air Colors which cure to a much stronger film with air drying alone (referred to as self-cross linking). Createx are made with exterior-grade (automotive) pigments allowing them to withstand prolonged exposure to direct, outdoor light without fading. For maximum permanence, a top-coat should be applied over the paint after curing.
 

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First what is the material you are painting is it stainless or copper or plain metal. first the peeling will stop if you first lightly sand the pieces frist followed by a good cleaning with a quality prep sol. The tape bleed issue is because the crepe paper tape you are using us too thick and wont conform to the surface of the object being painted. 3M part number 06529 will eliminate the tape bleed issue it is made of rice paper and is much thinner for good conformability. I am a tech field rep for a paint manufacturer so this is my area of expertise. I would also drop thr heat gun that can be part of the problem as well. The top coat drying quicker then the lower coat will cause the top to want to peel away. Let me know if you have any more questions Have a good day!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
First what is the material you are painting is it stainless or copper or plain metal. first the peeling will stop if you first lightly sand the pieces frist followed by a good cleaning with a quality prep sol. The tape bleed issue is because the crepe paper tape you are using us too thick and wont conform to the surface of the object being painted. 3M part number 06529 will eliminate the tape bleed issue it is made of rice paper and is much thinner for good conformability. I am a tech field rep for a paint manufacturer so this is my area of expertise. I would also drop thr heat gun that can be part of the problem as well. The top coat drying quicker then the lower coat will cause the top to want to peel away. Let me know if you have any more questions Have a good day!
Thanks will try it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The last sentence should say: If you don't top coat it will wash off when wet. That's why I like it. When I mess up I go to the sink and wash it off and start over.
It peels loose from the blade it dont wash off. But i haven't been doing a couple things i see so will try and get back.
 

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Lure Junkie
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Peerless blades need no prep.,.unless you're painting after changing your oil...

If you're in a hurry don't bother airbrushing...you'll hate it...you need a lot of patience and practice...I've painted thousands of blades and still learning...

I mask nothing and free hand everything...I prefer dots over stripes most of the time... Fish Magur Fish Catfish



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Senior Member
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Peerless blades need no prep.,.unless you're painting after changing your oil...

If you're in a hurry don't bother airbrushing...you'll hate it...you need a lot of patience and practice...I've painted thousands of blades and still learning...

I mask nothing and free hand everything...I prefer dots over stripes most of the time... View attachment 80553


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Thanks Carpet bagger! Cant argue with success. But i do keep trying to get them to look better. And im sure your hand is steadier then mine. LOL!
 
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