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Discussion in 'Boats and Motors' started by fishingredhawk, Oct 9, 2005.
My transom is pretty rotted out. Where can I buy a replacement? Thanks in advance
What kind of boat? is the transom sealed in aluminum? Fibergalss? Or is it exposed?
Most just replace it with marine grade plywood.
Give some more info, or pictures, if you can.
If it is an aluminum boat and you have access, try to remove it in one piece even though it is rotten. It can act as a template for the new wood. If you have a fiberglass boat or the transom in enclosed it gets significantly more complicated.
I used pressure treated ply for my new transom on the Sea Nymph and as far as I know it's still doing well. I laminated two pieces of 3/4" ply together using Gorilla Glue. That stuff is an incredibly strong glue. Just follow the directions and clamp the pieces tightly. After it has set, coat the entire piece with resin to waterproof it. Two or more coats is great to help prevent any water intrusion. After I did mine, I painted it black with some Rustoleum wood paint. My redone transom was stronger than the original!
If you have a transom like the problem ones above, that's a completely different problem.
Find Sea Cast on the web for fiberglass boats.
It is aluminum boat. I am pretty sure I can remove it without it falling to pieces. That is good advice UFM, I will do that. Did you just use normal ply? Thanks.
And didn't buy from Lowe's or Home Depot. I bought a sheet of standard 3/4 pressure treated but I bought it from a smaller lumber company near my work. They were able to get me a sheet that had a very small number of voids- less than normal. I saw the cost difference between pressure exterior grade lumber and marine lumber and I thought the savings were worth it. After gluing to two pieces together the new transom section was HEAVY- plus, with the two pieces glued together it was very stiff. That was what I was shooting for.
It's kind of fun refitting a boat- you get to do whatever you want to the inside to make it yours. I had a lot of fun on my Sea Nymph. A fellow GFO'er bought her and is still running her today. Makes me proud.
OK, common misconception is that pressure treated = treated against moisture. Pressure treated lumber of all varieties is pressurized in a vat of CCA compound (which is an arsenic compound) to make it insect resistant. It will last only marginally longer than regular plywood in marine applications.
You might try Zimmerman Wooden Boat Works
434 Spring St
I'm restoring a 67 starcraft aluminum boat and pulled the old trans they used it as a template and made me a new one did a great job dont know if they are still open they're web site is down
Another place is skiff craft in plain city 873-04664
hope this helps
that's mostly true.but though it's not "waterproof"(none really is)it resists rot caused from water,better than standard plywood types.that's why some types are even used in home foundation walls.bury a piece of each in the ground and test it
sealing it well,will help prolong it's life.as mentioned earlier,the fewer voids,the better.i'm not sure of present boats,but for years,treated ply has been used for decks/floors and transoms.i just replaced my original treated transom last year.it had seen a lot of water in it's 25 years.
In fact, marine plywood is not waterproof either- it is simply free of voids as they fill all voids before the plys are glued. You still have to seal the wood with a sealer as I stated in my first post. I never said that the pressure treated was waterproof. However, it is less likely to rot from moisture as was pointed out by misfit. I prefer to use it as it doesn't tend to warp as easily as standard plywood. Maybe it's just me, but I have done several transoms including my own and they are all doing just fine.
And, I believe that the arsenic compound used in pressure treated is no longer used due to its leeching properties and possible contamination of soils. I remember a while back that it was going to be eliminated. I don't knwo if that's happened yet or not- I just bought 100 decking boards to finish my deck addition and they looked to be plain old green treated wood. ???
I didn't make my point very well. Treated lumber only appears to resist water because it has the moisture content from the treatment that tends to repel any new moisture until the wood dries out completely. Non-treated plywood with a good sealer on it will last longer than non-sealed treated. You would have to wait to seal the treated plywood until it dried out or it would actually repel the sealer.
you were close eneough for me
and right about drying it before sealing,which is another good point.ufm and i just forgot to add that
My fishing buddy just replaced his transom with treated 2x12. He pulled his old one out for a template. Also made it taller to use a longshaft outboard instead of a short shaft. No glue, no mess and it fits perfectly. I would think it would be stronger than glued plywood.
Okay, it's a little off the path but answers a couple of questions. CCA=Chromated Copper Arsenate...It's pretty nasty stuff too. A few years back there was a resturant built on the Ohio river which was the former site of a water treatment plant. It was called the Catfish Farm, I believe. The old holding tanks were used to hold the catfish which you could catch and have cooked and served. The tanks had CCA decking built around them for people to fish from. Well after several massive fish kills it was finally determined it was the result of the Arsenic leeching from the wood into the holding tanks.
Here's the skinny on CCA from the EPA:
That is exactly what I did with my old 14ft Crestliner. Modified it to accept a long shaft motor, got a new piece of aluminum from work and bent a flange into it on the bottom edge so I could rivet it to the existing transom and sandwiched the 2x12 in between. Bent up a new top cap and it was complete. Solid as a rock.