Ohio Game Fishing banner
1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife and I live in a 2600sf ranch with 1300sf finished basement. Our house is very comfortable except for the indoor air. It feels cold and damp in the summer. The Lennox furnace /HVAC is about 3 years old. In the summer time the basement is so cold that we find it's uncomfortable to spend time watching TV down there. The humidity in the house runs from 50 to 65 percent Rh. The thermostat is on the main floor and controls the main floor temperature pretty well. I think I need to lower the humidity and I'm thinking of installing a whole house dehumidifier on the furnace. . Any suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
233 Posts
With most newer heat pumps you can have multiple zones in the home. I would see if you can have the basement on its own zone. This would probably require a thermostat in your basement.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
Basement will always be colder. Cold air sinks.
Sounds like maybe you have access moisture in the basement. If water is visible that needs remedied. Otherwise installing a dehumidifier would help a lot.
 

·
Just practicing my cast
Joined
·
5,303 Posts
First see if you have dampers and if you do adjust them close down the ones into the basement. You may also need to relocate your thermostat.and check the moisture in your basement
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
6,703 Posts
Not an expert but humidity should be between 45 - 50% in the summer. Add a dehumidifier in the basement set to 45%. This summer has been really humid for long periods of time. Cold air returns should not be blocked by furniture, curtains. Play with dampers to get all air moving away from basement to.
 

·
catchin my own bait since 1957
Joined
·
1,234 Posts
the only room that's the temperature you want it is the room with the thermostat, when that room reaches the set temp it shuts off, doesn't know the other rooms ... true zoning is more involved than a new thermostat, unless you have electric dampers and a circuit board it's zoned by manual dampers ... you mentioned that your basement is finished ... that space is half of the living space, if it wasn't considered when they replaced the furnace and just replaced the size that was there, it's possible that your equipment is sized for 2600 SF but struggling trying to service 3900 ... that's quite a difference, 50% more space for conditioned air, and the equipment, especially the AC condenser, have to be sized properly ... it can keep up in the winter but AC is different ... for example, maybe 3 tons would suffice previously but now you need 4 tons, something like that... if it's not keeping up, that could be your humidity issue, the AC pulls a lot of it out as condensate and now trying to do more than it can ... just an idea, I inspect them but don't work on them, you might ask an HVAC expert ...
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
16,937 Posts
Do have a dehumidifier running now? I have two in my basement getting about 5 gallons of water a day.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jrose

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,835 Posts
Air conditioning is a dehumidifier, so there is nothing else to add to the furnace accept for a humidifier. This is the reason it is important to size your A/C properly, everyone thinks bigger is better and it's the exact opposite for a/c, the longer it runs the more humidity it takes out of the air. When they're too big they drop the temp fast and shut off before adequately dehumidifying. Your options to make things better now. Close any supply dampers in the basement ducts, make sure all the upstairs damper are open. Pull return air from the finished basement area, have more added if you need too. When the outdoor temps are going to be hot and humid for an extended time, turn your furnace fan to the "on" position on your thermostat so it helps to mix the air up all the time whether the a/c is on or not. Just watch your filters because they'll need changed more often running your fan more.

Sent from my SM-A205U using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
741 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
No I don't have a dehumidifier. Again, my concern is humidity, not temperature. The house feels cold and clammy. As far as hvac unit sizing, on the hot days like we had in July, it ran about 10 hours per day and held the 75 degree set point ok. In fact the unit many times doesn't come on until about 4:00 in the afternoon. We set it at 68 starting at 9:00 pm.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
279 Posts
The ac is a dehumidifier naturally. As stated shut the dampeners to your basement part way to control how much cold air is going there. A dehumidifier will help the basement tremendously. Make sure whatever unit you purchase has a drain hose so you dont have to empty by hand.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
16,937 Posts
No I don't have a dehumidifier. Again, my concern is humidity, not temperature. The house feels cold and clammy. As far as hvac unit sizing, on the hot days like we had in July, it ran about 10 hours per day and held the 75 degree set point ok. In fact the unit many times doesn't come on until about 4:00 in the afternoon. We set it at 68 starting at 9:00 pm.
Sounds like you need one. I have a 13 course basement so I have more air in mine. I keep it 42-45% Humidity. 70 pints/day Dehumidifier
 
  • Like
Reactions: jrose

·
Senior Member
Joined
·
716 Posts
If you are gonna get a dehumidifier, not attached to the furnace, make sure that it is a low temp dehumidifier, or it will frost up in a cool/cold basement
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,972 Posts
Air conditioning is a dehumidifier, so there is nothing else to add to the furnace accept for a humidifier. This is the reason it is important to size your A/C properly, everyone thinks bigger is better and it's the exact opposite for a/c, the longer it runs the more humidity it takes out of the air. When they're too big they drop the temp fast and shut off before adequately dehumidifying. Your options to make things better now. Close any supply dampers in the basement ducts, make sure all the upstairs damper are open. Pull return air from the finished basement area, have more added if you need too. When the outdoor temps are going to be hot and humid for an extended time, turn your furnace fan to the "on" position on your thermostat so it helps to mix the air up all the time whether the a/c is on or not. Just watch your filters because they'll need changed more often running your fan more.

Sent from my SM-A205U using Tapatalk
this is dead on.... so many think bigger is better and its not with ac...its actually better for it to run more often than not...keeping the furnace blower on all the time also helps keep the air circulated and keeps the house at a more even temp...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,032 Posts
As stated by others run you blower 24/7 this will make all rooms a more even temperature, check your furnace filter monthly and change as needed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
77 Posts
The OP stated his ac barely runs. Hence the high humidity. I’d start with the small 70 pint a day unit. If the ac barely runs I doubt a built in dehumidifier would do much good

I agree that ac will remove ac moisture. But if you have water coming in from somewhere it can run all day and not dry out the house. Same thing if it barely runs
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
125 Posts
If you buy a dehumidifier by the hose kit for it and run it down your drain if you have one. That or it quits running when it’s full
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,092 Posts
A Danby dehumidifiers seem to work good. I have a 70 pint with a hose kit. I also have geothermal HVAC and I have a variable speed blower that is always on. It ramps up in speed as needed then throttles back down. And yes it does keep the air moving so the house stays more uniform
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top