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Need a repair shop

Discussion in 'Boats and Motors' started by fishintiger, Apr 11, 2005.

  1. Does anyone know of a motor repair shop that still works on Scott Atwater motors? I've got an 1948 3.6 deluxe that doesn't idle. It will start and run as long as the motor is wide open but once you back it down it stalls out. I've tried spraying carb cleaner into the motor and it didn't work. I need to get it fixed so I can enjoy my boat this season. Thanks for any help. I would like to find someone in Central Ohio but if not I guess I can take it where ever I need to take it. Thanks guys.
     
  2. ncraft150

    ncraft150 Buckeye-Basser

    Try Boaters Marine in Akron. They work on anything and advertise it. Phone is 330-253-9226. I've gotten parts from him and know he works on everything. Even very old stuff. My brother has had him do work before and has been very happy. The guy has given me a ton of free advice when doing my own work also.
     

  3. Grumpy

    Grumpy Certified Old Geezer

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    If your in/near Columbus, you can try Baker's Outboard Motor Repair on Stelzer Rd. (614-471-3486.
     
  4. Thanks Grumpy. Misfit said he knew of a place on Stelzer but couldn't remember the name. I'm over in Canal Winchester so it's a short drive up there I will check them out. Thanks both of you for the help.
     
  5. Grumpy

    Grumpy Certified Old Geezer

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    I would call him first. He works out of his garage and is not always there. The address is: 2650 Stelzer Rd. Look for the house with the boats on the lawn.. ;)

    He did some work for me last year. He's good..............and reasonable!
     
  6. I still own two 1950's Scott-Atwater 3.6 hp outboards. Those are great motors, but can be a bit tempermental. Let me walk you through a few of the more common issues with that (style) motor.

    First of all, check your spark plug and make sure the gap is correctly set and that it is not excessively worn.

    Check your fuel to make sure that it is fresh and is not contaminated with water (possible leaky gas cap; condensation during storage).

    Also make sure your oil:fuel mixture is correct. Changing the ratio (usually occurs by not being consistent with batch to batch measurement) can alter the combustion which ultimately reduces performance.

    After you have checked these basics, the next likely issue is the jet setting. The knob on top of the carburetor needs to be properly set to allow the correct air/fuel mixture for the given engine rpm. Start by turning this knob completely in (clockwise while facing the knob) to where it just stops turning. Do NOT crank it down tight as this damages the gasket and/or jet to where it may not operate correctly. Now turn the knob about 1-1/2 turns counter-clockwise. Start the motor and allow it to warm up to "normal" operating temperature. Now make VERY SMALL (like 1/8 of a turn) incremental adjustments both ways until the engine "purrs". Now begin increasing the throttle and observe if the engine in operating smoothly or if it sputters and coughs. If the low-speed idle is good, chances are the high-speed performance will take care of itself.

    Now for more difficult problems, although not impossible to correct.

    The carburetor is gravity fed from the fuel tank. If the float (made of cork) has deteriorated (prolonged dry storage), then you may not be getting the right setting. Often times the float can stick and either flood the engine at low speed or it can run out of fuel. This just depends on how/where it sticks.

    The fuel tank is steel. Steel rusts over time. Check the tank to see if you have rust flakes in it. Also check the fuel line to the carburetor for solids. If you find any flakes, etc., remove the crud and dry the tank, lines, and carburetor. Clean the lines & carburetor and set aside. The gas tank can be lined with a two-part epoxy (recommended) to prevent further rust/corrosion.

    I hope this helps. If you'd like more help, PM me and we'll swap phone numbers. I live in central Ohio and would be glad to help if you need it.

    Now, hang on to these names/numbers I'm about to give you.

    1. Jim Carter's Submarina (Buckeye Lake): (740) 928-8234
    Jim is one of the best OMC mechanics in the country. He is very helpful with the do-it-yourself mechanics (like me).

    2. The Mayflower, George Horsefall (Gaysport--south of Zanesville)
    (740) 674-6208
    George is a retired engineer with acres of old outboards & parts. He's worked on more outboards than many of the big-city shops will ever see. Where do you think I found parts for my first Scott-Atwater--and the second motor (in good working order)?
     
  7. Toboso where were you yesterday afternoon? I talked with "The Scott Guy" yesterday evening and he told me the same thing you just did. He lives up in New York so it cost me a long distance phone call.

    The only problem is that the motor only runs wide open. It won't start unless the throttle is wide open. I have to get it adjusted to idle. I'm hoping to test it again this weekend.

    One other thing. My float is metal. I'm not sure if this is the original float in it or if someone modified it to be a metal float. I will get ahold of you if I need any more help. Thanks for all your help.
     
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