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Micro Spoons

Discussion in 'Tackle Making' started by jim426, Jan 9, 2009.

  1. All this talk about Micro Spoons got my interest up and running, so I called up Jann's and order all the stuff I thought I needed,and here are the results. I really enjoy makeing them I just wanted something to help pass this winter boredom away this helps, I allso got another project going let you know about it later.:) Jim 426 DSC03013 (Small).JPG

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  2. Very nice looking baits there ...jim426...keep up the good work..That will help you with passing this winter away...keeps the mind busy...C.L...
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 30, 2015

  3. ParmaBass

    ParmaBass Kiss The Converse

    Turned out really nice! I might give it a shot too.
     
  4. I've been making those for 25 years-very easy to master. I dip mine in enamel but those look very professional!
     
  5. Do you guys use a willowleaf blade, and just solder it?
     
  6. Went one time with mrphish42 to Barneys in Kent..the maker of the Barney Spoon...to visit his Uncle Bob ..who I took as a partner of Barney...They showed us a box of spoons the shape of the Barney Spoon about 3/4 of an inch long...Would loved to have had some made into jigging spoons...Never got back....Were made of Bright Shinny Copper......Jim......
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 30, 2015
  7. I buy the smallest leaf blades I can find and clamp a "small Gold aberdeen hook" to it and solder the hook inside the concaved part of the blade leaving the blade eyelet to tie to. Tip-Use a micro round file to smooth up the blade eyelet since they are usually stamped and sharp. The gold hooks solder much nicer than other kinds for me. I use a tiny drop of liquid flux on the blade/hook area and some solder with a small amount of silver in it(hard to find sometimes but most better Hardware stores have it). You can also leave the hook shorter (inside the blade) so the hook eyelet extends past the end of the blade and just solder the blade eyelet closed. This is how I do it, Jim426 might have some different techniques.
     
  8. DSC03032 (Small).JPG

    DSC03031 (Small).JPG The method I use is similar to c. j. I made up a alligator clip and glued a piece of wood in one of the jaws, this holds the hook to the blade while soldering I always place the wood over the hook shank some where just off the center towards the eye place the allagator clip on magnet so the eye is slighly down hill, this allows the solder to pudle from the eye back along the shank, very little heat is required, a pencil tourch works great it does a good job for me, I than take a horseshoe magnet and place it in a vice whice allows me to place the alligator clip in any position for soldering, I use a lite electrical solder with clear flux for this job it works great, when I'm done soldering I take a dremel tool and go over the whole blade to clean up the flux and to ruff up the finish a little bit. Than it's ready for the powder, hold the lure by the eye of the hook with forcepts, I like to use a heat gun it seems like you have more control of the powder for blending, just warm up the lure a little bit dip in the powder shake off build up of powder hit with the gun again if you think it needs another coat dip it again hit with heat keep doing this till you get what your trying to accomplish,by useing the heat gun you can see the paint going to shiny stage you want in the paint. I hope this helps I did it threw trail and errer, if any question PM me or just go threw here, I'm no professional and typing is a job. Thanks Jim426

    PS . The sinkers was the other project I was talking about, I like the Idea of a snagless sinker, but I'm sure there's no such thing as "SNAGLESS" .
     
  9. How did you get the lead to stick to wood on the sinkers, Jim???
     
  10. C. J. there's a wire running down threw the lead, with a gap of about 1 1/4 inch between the lead and the eye of the wire i'm cutting balsa wood in about 3/8" square, drill 1/4" inch hole in middle of the 3/8 piece of wood for 1/2 or so, than I take a compass saw and split the wood down half way bend the wire out a shade and insert lead into the 1/4" hole than push the wire back to center of the piece of wood hold in place while you place some super glue on it to hole it in place, sand down the wood to give it a neat appearance, the wood is easy to sand to shape, once that is done I dip it in rubberize plastic coating called Grip Dip, look in Jann's Netcraft they have it. as far as the wood is concenred I can not fine the reason for it, but Lindy's puts it on there's, plus there 's a rattle in there's also, I only had 1 rattle so I did make one with a rattle also, after the coating drys I put a coating of Loon's clear head dressing to give it that shiny appearance, You can bend the lead before or after the coating it is strong stuff, not all of my have the wood on the head just the one's that are mark wooden head or wood head.

    PS the mold I made my self out of carbon blocks I got while I was still working, seven years ago, I have two left , I went out to day to fine some open water to test the sinkers from what little open water I found they are going to work just fine, no problems yet. I hope this answer your question Jim426. Any more question don't be affraid to ask my typing is not that great nor my spelling Thanks again
     
  11. Jim, what size are those blades and hooks?

    thanks