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I think the net to which Jim refers is a Loki net TECH-6SQT. I started with one & then liked it so much I bought another and ditched my Beckman (the new Beckmans don't even come close to my original Beckman which is at the bottom of the lake :rolleyes:). The Loki net is light & has a square handle so it is easy to extend. I wrapped the end with some rubber tape like you use on a tennis racket handle. And you can buy replacement bags for about 10 bucks plus shipping. You can contact Loki directly at [email protected] or [email protected]. Or you can call them at 865-687-7341. They will ship them to you and their service is pretty good.

But I have to say I am intrigued by Miked913's description of the cummings red white and blue rubber net. I might buy one to try it out.
 

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I started using a clear replacement net purchased from Netcraft and found that the hooks do not penetrate it. I not sure of the brand but I thinks it was Cummins. It's also easer on fish that are released as it doesn't have knots. It might be made of vinyl and is harder than rubber. I tried a black rubber and found it to be too heavy.
 

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How is the weight of the rubber replacement vs. the coated nylon? My first and only rubber net was really heavy but that was 20 years ago.
I was hesitant to try the rubber net as sometimes I fish alone and was concerned with the weight. After trying one I found the weight to be negligible. Sounds like there are a few options out there.
 

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I have the Cumings red, white, and blue and like it lots. The bag is white, which helps to see the hooks when removing the lure, IMO.
I ordered this replacement bag to put on one of my frames. Haven't installed it yet, but just holding it open, I'm wondering if it's deep enough??
 

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Hi Jim,
In an effort to minimize getting lures out of the landing net. Do you have any advice/ experience on removing one of the treble hooks from Bandits? If so which one?
Thanks for the Q&A and Happy New Year to all.
Skeeter
i replajsed treble hooks to single inline hooks on HJ#14 and P!0,bandit with 2/0,3/0,4/0 or 5/0 inline hooks it work perfect,if i am not using the lure for sit steel in water to suspend,i use onle 2 hook,mitel and back hook.i cast off rocks and get fish at night in dark .i do not have to turn light to take hooks off net.
 

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Discussion Starter · #88 ·
Jim, ever use scent or a piece of crawler on cranks or spoons?
On cranks yes, but not on spoons (except with worm burners).

A worm burner is a spoon with a 2 hook harness attached to it. The idea is be able to run worms at faster speeds then with a conventional spinner harness.

With cranks a small piece of worm on the belly hook, being careful to make sure it's on the hook point that faces away from the lure. We do this on days when the fish seem to be in a neutral or reluctant mood. I haven't used any applied scent for years.

Thanks for the question, good fishing and happy new year.
 

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On cranks yes, but not on spoons (except with worm burners).

A worm burner is a spoon with a 2 hook harness attached to it. The idea is be able to run worms at faster speeds then with a conventional spinner harness.

With cranks a small piece of worm on the belly hook, being careful to make sure it's on the hook point that faces away from the lure. We do this on days when the fish seem to be in a neutral or reluctant mood. I haven't used any applied scent for years.

Thanks for the question, good fishing and happy new year.
I hadn’t used scent for years either. Last spring, early May Lure Lipstick saved the day for us… Tried it all summer into the fall without any noticeable difference… Maybe a cold water thing? Will try it again this spring.
 

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I have noticed adding scent being more of a benefit to me when jigging, as opposed to trolling or casting.
 
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Jim 2 quick questions. When you have a small pod of active fish providing you have room to maneuver around them do you prefer to run less gear and keep turning on those fish or pick up and run and troll back through them again?

2nd one if you have been on a school if fish for a few days then go out and there gone how do you go about finding another school. Do you start circling the area or just head out for a new area? Thank you.

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Discussion Starter · #92 ·
Jim 2 quick questions. When you have a small pod of active fish providing you have room to maneuver around them do you prefer to run less gear and keep turning on those fish or pick up and run and troll back through them again?

2nd one if you have been on a school if fish for a few days then go out and there gone how do you go about finding another school. Do you start circling the area or just head out for a new area? Thank you.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Small active pods seem to be more common this year. I have never run less gear to make quicker turns possible. In fact I believe turning short and pounding an active pod of fish (especially larger fish) is the best way to kill the bite. The little barely legal walleyes may tolerate this, but the better fish will not.

If it's calm enough to turn back on a spot I nearly always will do that first. Number of boats in the area, wave conditions, and if the fish will bite going both ways, all enter into it.

When fish move from an area it's usually a weather or wind or barometer change that triggers the move. Bait is most often concentrated by converging currents. When those currents are broken up, the bait disperses and the walleyes go back on the hunt. It takes way too long to search a 3 or 4 square mile area by circling. I usually look straight down wind first, but it's most often a matter finding the bait to find the fish.

Thanks for the question and good fishing.
 

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Small active pods seem to be more common this year. I have never run less gear to make quicker turns possible. In fact I believe turning short and pounding an active pod of fish (especially larger fish) is the best way to kill the bite. The little barely legal walleyes may tolerate this, but the better fish will not.

If it's calm enough to turn back on a spot I nearly always will do that first. Number of boats in the area, wave conditions, and if the fish will bite going both ways, all enter into it.

When fish move from an area it's usually a weather or wind or barometer change that triggers the move. Bait is most often concentrated by converging currents. When those currents are broken up, the bait disperses and the walleyes go back on the hunt. It takes way too long to search a 3 or 4 square mile area by circling. I usually look straight down wind first, but it's most often a matter finding the bait to find the fish.

Thanks for the question and good fishing.
Excellent question and answer.
If you are ever fortunate enough to get on big fish keep in mind these are wild animals. They are aware of their surroundings, the displacement of your boat and all the sounds that go with it. I think most days stealth is a good trait when hunting big fish.
 

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Excellent question and answer.
If you are ever fortunate enough to get on big fish keep in mind these are wild animals. They are aware of their surroundings, the displacement of your boat and all the sounds that go with it. I think most days stealth is a good trait when hunting big fish.
Totally agree. If I can possibly help it I will not fish "in the pack". Around it? Yes but not in it. I think about it this way, 20 fow sounds like a lot. It is not. It is only the length of my boat. Even 40 fow is not that much. So if you have all these boats, all trolling around, pinging away with sonar - it is a lot of pressure on the fish and they are probably going to scoot.

And on Jim's observation about finding the bait to find the fish: I have had the opportunity to fish for salmon off the coast of British Columbia in small (18') boats. Here you are in 300 fow. You don't look for salmon on the sonar, you look for bait pods. And you don't even drop a line till you find a bait pod on the sonar. Then it is a mad scramble to get the lines in the water. And so long as the bait is still there you will be catching salmon but in an instant the bait pod on the screen will disappear and so will the salmon. You have to slowly drive around looking for that bait again (with some help from the other boats in the area). Find the bait again and it is game on! Not quite the same with walleye on Lake Erie but the same principle applies.
 

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i noticed this year that alot of days the fish seemed to swim alot... turning and going over your track the fish were already gone- no marks
 

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Discussion Starter · #96 ·
Fisherman 2, If the fish move even if you are the only boat around, I'd say the school is following moving bait. If you're working any sort of structure try moving one way or the other on that break line or current seam.

I'm not a big fan of pounding the exact same line repeatedly. It's very situational, but most of the time I'll move over at least a couple hundred yds. Or hit the spot from a different direction. If it's good at the WP it may be better close by.

The guys who turn back quickly or do a quick circle, are only in a big hurry to run their catchable fish off. We seldom hit a spot a second time in under 30 minutes.

Hope this helps, good fishing.
 

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This may have been asked before. But does anyone find fish trolling then stop and drift and cast the area?
 

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Discussion Starter · #98 ·
jdl447, I personally don't know anyone who does this, but one of the great things about Lake Erie walleye fishing is, just because nobody else does it does not mean that you shouldn't give it a try.

It seems that trollers are trollers and casters are casters, but the is no rule that says it must be that way.

Good luck.
 

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I picked up so snap weights to try the trolling crankbaits. do the weighted lures go on the outside board or the inside board? When trolling lures with weights and without, how do I setup the spread?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #100 ·
I picked up so snap weights to try the trolling crankbaits. do the weighted lures go on the outside board or the inside board? When trolling lures with weights and without, how do I setup the spread?

Thanks
The weighted lures must be run on the inside rods, unless of course you're running everything on that side weighted. One other thing if we're weighting all the lines the weights should be the same, and set the same distance up from the lure. Longest leads on the outside lines. To facilitate clearing the inside lines.
 
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