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How to get rear seal off axle spindle?

Discussion in 'Boats and Motors' started by NickRummy, Aug 21, 2007.

  1. I lost a bearing buddy while out last time and thought I would go ahead and tear the wheels down and repack the bearings. My trailer has a seal on the back of the spindle and there is the rear bearing in there? How do these seals come out? There is no way to get the bearing out unless the seal comes out.

    Thanks!
     
  2. freyedknot

    freyedknot useless poster

    that seal should come off with the hub. and should push out as it is pressed into the hub and are tight just as the bearing buddies in the front.
     

  3. Ok so I should be able to lightly tap on the bearing and push it out the backside then right?
     
  4. freyedknot

    freyedknot useless poster

  5. Lewzer

    Lewzer Powderfinger

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    I would use a new seal when you repack the bearing. They are cheap.
     
  6. Perfect. I thought about using new seals too since I already had them apart and just keep the old ones for spares.
     
  7. A trick I learned quite some time ago on cars (and it works on trailers) is to remove the outer bearing and spin the spindle nut back on. Then you can kick the hub sideways a bit and use the nut like a slide hammer. It doesn't take much force to slide the hub forward into the nut and the bearing and seal will pop out unharmed!
     
  8. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

    replace the rear seal too. dont try to save it. just get a long punch, pipe something and knock it out with a hammer.. if you mess around with it pushing out the bearing, you might do some unseen damage to the seal and it will leak out grease and get on the brake drum/pads. if your rebuliding it, just replace everything. that way you know its done and done right. my seals, bearings and races all come in one package. go see your boat dealer. take the drum/bearings with you and have them match up the bearings, etc. most of them have trailer parts.
     
  9. Snobal, used your method and it worked flawlessly!

    The driver side assemblies looked great. The passenger sides on the other hand.... not so great. Grease looked to be really dark like it got hot. Pulled the front wheel apart and water got inside and started rusting the bearings and race. This would explain the bearing chirp last time out. New parts it is.

    For that seal that presses in from the back of the hub, does it press in until it hits the bearing? When I was taking them apart it was only pressed in flush with the hub and there was still probable 1/8" or so of space between the seal and bearing. That doesn't make sense to me since grease can come out there right? When I put them together should I press it in until it contacts the bearing "sealing" the grease in?
     
  10. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

    seat the rear seal until it stops in the hub. mine stop when its flush.
     
  11. There are two places I can stop it. either flush with the ring of the hub it is being pressed into or it can keep being pressed in further until it reaches the bearing. If I stop it flush with the hub there will be an open space between the bearing and seal. I'd say there will be about 1/8" space from the top of the seal to the top of the hub if I press it in until it stops.
     
  12. Lewzer

    Lewzer Powderfinger

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    I'd leave it flush with the hub. I like the bearing to spin freely on the grease and spindle. If you tap it in tight the bearing will rub the seal.
     
  13. Doctor

    Doctor CJ Cat Attack Pack

    You want the seal flush with the hub, the grease that you put into the hub will take up the void, make sure when you reassemble that you put plenty of grease in those bearings, put a big gob of it in the palm of your hand and roll those bearings into it they need to be packed good, it's messy but they will last much longer.

    I just redid mine after a failure on the road, not fun at all, the bearing just let go, don't know why as I had greased and checked them prior to leaving the house, after they are together only put a couple of pumps into the axle, you don't want that grease popping out of the seal on the backside if it does it will allow dirt and water into the hub.

    I trailer better than 20,000 miles per year so 6 years on a set of bearings is pretty good, I jack each wheel up prior to leaving for a trip and spin it listening for any clunks or chirps and also check the Buddy bearings or grease caps to make sure they have not backed off of the hub.........Doc
     
  14. misfit

    misfit MOD SQUAD

    tap the seal in till it is flush with hub.no further.get it started,then place a block of wood on it to prevent damage from the hammer when setting it in place.
    LOL.looks like mike and doc were faster on the keyboard.
     
  15. If that gap is between the seal and the bearing won't the grease squeeze out when you try to fill the assembly up with grease through the bearing buddy?

    I'll go ahead and push them in flush. I bought new marine grease for the bearings and I'll pack them up with grease just like a new bearing would be. I know the palm packing trick :D
     
  16. Nick,

    The inner seal should have a rubber boot that seals to the axle. No grease should pass thru this.

    Tim
     
  17. I think that is what I was overlooking at first but understand now. I was thinking it had to press against the bear to seal when its the axle that seals it when the hub is slid on. Thanks everyone! Hopefully she'll be back together tonight!