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Discussion Starter #1
I dont notice them in the summer, but last year and this year in the winter, they are tunneling in my yard, making dirt piles etc. What can I do this time of year to get rid of them?
 

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Akron
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In a previous post, Juicy Fruit chewing gum was suggested. This worked for me this summer. Something cheap for you to try. I understand it blocks their digestion system.
 

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In our area it's suggested they are moving to get the cicada larvae from the son-to-emerge brood. They're terrible in my yard as I have 3 four open acres and 3.5 wooded. It's funny, they will tunnel right up to the compcted clay under the barn shed, then make a hard right or left and continue along in the softer soil. I quit trying to do anything about them, consider that they are just aerating and uncompacting my yard. Doesn't look so good hen they get under the plantings, though.

Dennis
 
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Discussion Starter #5
I dont know what kind of larvae they might be after but I'm sure locusts are a possibility. Japanese beetles might be another. I thought locusts went deeper than just below the sod? For that matter anything that shallow should get frozen at some point, right? One area they seem to like is where I cut down an old apple tree a couple of years ago. The thing that has me stumped (no pun intended) is why now and not in the summer? Would grub killer work now? I'm thinking if I eliminate the food source they would move on?
 

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I was told to treat my yard with, I believe its called GrubX Eliminate the grubs and they'll leave. Obviously too late in the year for that.
I'm not sure the dirt piles are moles. I'm getting those in my yard right now. Big pile of dirt with no exit hole. There was a thread on here a while back and guys were saying those are Voles, not moles.
Sounds like Tomatos-Toma`toes, but they are a different animal.
It's the white grubs they're after, the moles that is, and Promise Keeper had most of it right. They're a larva of the Japanese beetle. Kill them next spring and most of your problems should leave
 

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I was told to treat my yard with, I believe its called GrubX Eliminate the grubs and they'll leave. Obviously too late in the year for that.
I'm not sure the dirt piles are moles. I'm getting those in my yard right now. Big pile of dirt with no exit hole. There was a thread on here a while back and guys were saying those are Voles, not moles.
Sounds like Tomatos-Toma`toes, but they are a different animal.
It's the white grubs they're after, the moles that is, and Promise Keeper had most of it right. They're a larva of the Japanese beetle. Kill them next spring and most of your problems should leave
This is what I did a few years ago when we had moles pretty bad in our yard. Didn't care too much at first until they started exposing the roots in my veggie garden. Put a grub killer in my yard and they were gone pretty quickly and never came back.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I did some Googling and found a bunch of info on the MSU website. The pics they had that looked closest to the damage I'm seeing is the star-nosed mole. Looks like its too late for this year to apply chemicals but I'll try the gum in the meantime! What I did learn was there are PREVENTATIVE and CURATIVE treatments. Check this out:

Available products
Below is a short list of products now being sold for grub control as of May 22, 2020, in stores checked in the Mid-Michigan area. An online search indicates there are other products that will be available at other stores. Check the active ingredients.
Available preventive products
  • Scotts Grub-Ex - Granular
    chlorantraniliprole 0.08%
    Apply between April 1 and May 30 (no later than July 15) for best results.
  • Bayer Advanced Season-Long Grub Control (or Bayer Advanced Merit) - Granular
    imidacloprid 0.25%
    Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
  • Bayer Advanced Season-Long Grub Control and Turf Revitalizer - Granular
    imidacloprid 0.25% and a low fertilizer rate (6-0-1)
    Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
  • Premium Grub Control (Do not confuse with “Premium Insect Control”)
    imidacloprid 0.2% - Granular
    Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
  • Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Liquid attach-to-hose-bottle
    cyfluthrin 0.36% and imidacloprid 0.72%
    Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
  • Bayer Advanced Complete Insect Killer Granules - Granular
    cyfluthrin 0.05% and imidacloprid 0.15%
    Apply between June 1 and July 15 for best results.
Available curative products
  • Sevin Lawn Insect Granules - Granular
    carbaryl 2.0%
    Apply in September or October to active grubs.
  • Bayer Advanced 24 hr Grub Killer Plus - Granular
    trichlorfon 9.3%
    Apply in spring or fall to active grubs.
Products that will NOT kill grubs
  • Spectracide Triazicide Insect Killer for Lawns - Granular
    gamma-cyhalothrin 0.05%
    This product will not kill grubs at any rate. This product was tested by MSU for grub control in 2006 and gave identical results as the untreated plots.
 

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Powderfinger
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Whatever you apply make sure you wear disposable gloves and get a good shower after applying to your yard. I’m not an anti-chemical guy but these insecticides are not good for living things (you). I’m a chemist and been to the Bayer plant in Antwerp many times. I do not want to go back there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Lew, sounds like a good reason to try the Juicy Fruit first! Thanks.
 

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I bought some Victor brand "poison peanuts" at the local Rural King for a couple bucks. It took care of my moles in a few days. That was a few weeks ago and haven't seen any "mounds" since.
 

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They make a spike trap that is fairly easy to set and it works wonders. I have 3 of them and if I see a hill in the lawn I set a couple of these and within 2 days you have the problem solved.
 

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Good morning PK. Where I grew up we had an area with sandy soil. Mole Heaven. Dad had a pretty cool solution that's all natural.
Keep this under your hat. He planted castor beans. You'll have to wait until fall to harvest the seeds. He'd take some seeds and thumb them into the tunnels. Mole eats them and dies.
Now these castor bean plants are pretty cool looking but they'll grow to 7-8 feet so watch were you plant them.
They're also used for something else. That's why I said to keep it under your hat.
But it's all natural. No nasty chemicals. I hate nasty chemicals. I like to compost my grass from time to time. :)
 

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Here's a pic of some I've grown. I just plant them down at the weed line.
 

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Powderfinger
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But it's all natural. No nasty chemicals.
Except for the ricin.:eek:

Ricin is a lectin and a highly potent toxin produced in the seeds of the castor oil plant, Ricinus communis. A dose of purified ricin powder the size of a few grains of table salt can kill an adult human.
 

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Bet you might have a grub problem. Did you dig out the stump of the tree? Finding white grubs in the roots will be a sign. Possibly army worms to. Do you get brown moths when mowing?

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