Flyrod - trouble casting with float

Discussion in 'Steelhead Talk' started by Johnny Bravo, Dec 2, 2008.

  1. I'm new to the flyfishing game and I'm pretty much hooked....after 27 years of using spinning and baitcasting gear. It's a total blast, but I can't figure out how to cast when I'm using the rather large floats when drifting for steel. I'm using the medium sized foam floats suggested to me by Craig at Erie Outfitters.

    What kind of cast do you use when fishing with the float? I'm assuming it's not a typical overhand or side cast. Every few casts I end up with a big mess. Please help.

  2. I always try to fish the smallest practical strike indicator possible and no indicator when conditions permit. With that being said I slow down my casting timing and be sure to stop the back cast around 11:30 which gets the line above horizontal. My forward cast stops mometary around 9:30.
    The roll cast works well but I have never mastered it for casting beyond around 20/25ft.:(
    Quite honestly, I am usually fishing around 40/45ft away max.

  3. Fishaholic69

    Fishaholic69 Fly Fishing Addict

    like shortdrift says. it sounds like your timing is off on your cast. make sure your line is straightening up and your rod is loaded properly before you start that forward cast. shouldn't tangle up anymore. also I am kinda new also only flying it a year and a half or so and I have been reading up on this looping cast that lets the fly and shot land before the indicator. this gives you no drag on your fly and shot from your indicator to get your fly down faster in higher faster flows. I would learn how to cast basic casts first tho
    heres a few tips on casting
  4. a large indecator really brings out any mistakes in a casting stroke, some of the most common are
    -not pausing long enough on the backcast, or the whole cast being to fast
    -not enough power on the backcast, in fly fishing your power is really drawn when bringing back and loading the rod, unlike spinfishing where the power is gained going forward.
    -and the rainbow cast, the rod should stay in a straight line on the top, and should not drop in front of, or behind you, the farther it deviates from the flat line the harder you have to work to regain power.

    with an indecator you want to always think, hard backcast/easy forward(this will also increase distance), pause in the back.

    there is also a technique that will cast and indecator without tangling 50ft+ consitantly without a backcast, however teaching single handed spey casts in print is impossible lol, work on your cast on a pond and work on getting as close as possible to the fish.
  5. ryosapien

    ryosapien Bad@

    bravo, roll casts are no good for weighted systems which is what i assume you are using. The truth is there is nothing beautiful about casting with lead shot and indicators on. Remember learning about tight wrists-tight loops with accelerate to a stop arm. Well throw that out the window. You need to bring the weight up in the water, which will load the rod, befor you begin your back cast. Throw a big loop back this can be accomplished by breaking the wrist a little more, raising your arm at the shoulder, and coming to a more gradual stop rather than abrupt as in tight loop casting. Shoot, half the time i let the drift end, the line tighten, and with extended arm lob the rig up, slowly at first and accelerating, and over. on another note learning a tuck cast (stop the rod high, abrupt,and early on the forward cast)can help you get more out of your drift as it gets the fly down quicker because it allows the flies to hit the water before the indicator can induce drag. Thingamabobbers are amazing small discreet floats that do not sink and are extremely sensitive and allow for visualization of weight ticking on the bottom.
  6. Thanks guys. I think I was really just getting sloppy and moving too quickly through the entire cast. I'll give it a shot this week.
  7. Fishaholic69

    Fishaholic69 Fly Fishing Addict

    the tuck cast is what I was talking about on my post above. just didn't know the name
  8. OhioFlyer

    OhioFlyer BaddFish Killa

    My only advice is to get some Ben-Gay or other sports creme. When you first start flyfishing you will go home with some sore spots until you get the technique right. (Note: Sore spots will not be caused by massive amounts of fish for a while). I treat fly fishing as a reputitious sport like bowling and golf. The more consistant you can become with techniques (such as casting) the easier it will become.

    On a last note. To all begining fly fishers the absolute best advice I can give is to pick up just about any book that has the word "fly fishing" it it you will learn something new.
  9. Almost all of casting with an indicator is a roll cast. No tradional overhead casting for me, too many tangles and messes. I can roll cast plenty of shot and the indicator out where i need it to be on almost every river i fish. Occasional I may need to use a modified spey cast, can't remember the name though.
  10. Im not trying to start an argument. But, the way is see it is that using a float takes away from the skill of fly fishing.
  11. ryosapien

    ryosapien Bad@

    i don't think anyone would argue that indicators make catching fish easier xlvmax. THat being said i think flyfishing even with a float is the most challenging way to fish for these beauties and until most get proficient at the rest of the technique we can't afford to miss strikes. THere is much more to fly fishing for steelhead, which believe me takes skill, than detecting strikes. I know a guy who has never caught a steelhead who refuses to use an indicator he just started fly fishing! He's going to have a long season. IMHO you got to learn to crawl before you learn to walk. BOBBERS are like training wheels i'll take em off when i can control the rest of the ride and am a little more confident.
  12. flyfishing is, (outside of a borderline artform and probably more addicting than crack) a tool to catch fish, it is somtimes the best way sometimes not. a strike indecator (glorified bobber) is another tool that makes the former more effective, when used the right way, in the right situation. anyone skilled with a tool will catch more, its not taking away from one skill if you use multiple tools.
  13. Clayton

    Clayton Fly guy

    I learned to fly fish by picking up a fly rod and swinging it around until I stopped feeling stupid doing it :p

    That being said, several articles by Lefty Kreh will give you a lot of basic goodness for a side-arm cast, and some show I saw on outdoor channel taught me the basics of a double-haul cast, as well as just a frontal cast (vertical rod, lines goes out ahead of you).

    Grab some hats, throw em in your yard, and shoot at em.

    With a float, I've found it important to use a bit more load on the rod, and wait until the line is totally straight out behind me. If I miss my timing at all, or bring it beside me too much (i.e. let the rod tip swing to too far an angle behind me) I'll end up with a tangled heap.

    When I'm using a strike indicator, I try not to let the rod go beyond 11 and 1 on a clock face. Believe it or not, that's MORE than enough room to make enough power to throw these things :)

    Summing it up:
    More power
    Shorter motions
    Load the rod up more
    Keep your tip up. All the time.

    And practice practice practice! I've been using a little clip-on foam indicator that's worked great so far, but I haven't tried any others, so my advice might all be bunk... but you've got all winter to goof off like me and try it all :)