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Envirotex Devcon

Discussion in 'Tackle Making' started by vc1111, Feb 8, 2009.

  1. I'm titling this OGF thread "Envirotex Devcon" because that should make it easy for others in the future when doing a search on this site. This thread was a small tutorial I wrote a while back on another website. But, my fellow saw dust enthusiasts, this version is updated with some more tips...ooh baby, epoxy tips! Is that erotic or what? I mean not erotic like fat ladies wrestling in a vat of Crisco, but, you know, bait builder erotic. You guys can stuff dollar bills in my musky net after reading this. :D). It was originally titled:

    "Trying to achieve a flawless finish."


    If you're interested in trying to achieve a flawless finish (meaning as flawless as possible...lol, seems like theres always a flaw if you look hard enough)...try to slow down when applying the final topcoats.

    Put down a clean piece of paper for a work area. It can be an old magazine or the backside of something you copied, but its always good to have a clean work area and a clean spot to place the lure before you begin.

    Wash your hands thoroughly first. Your hands very often contain dust of one type or another which will fall onto the sticky surface and show in the final finish.

    Clean your brush of all dust particles by fanning it with your finger or thumb till you can no longer see dust flying off the bristles. Also remove any loose bristles so they can't get dragged into the epoxy during the application process.

    Mix the epoxy on a clean non-porous surface. Some guys like the bottom of a soda can. I like medicine cups because if you buy them by the hundred count, they are cheap and disposable...about 4 cents a piece...for four cents, I don't have to slow down and clean anything when I'm done and if I'm mixing envirotex instead of Devcon 2 ton epoxy, the medicine cups have markings on the side which help you achieve a perfect 50/50 mix every time.

    I prefer use acid brushes for applying the epoxy. I crimp the tip near the bristles with a pair of pliers to lock down the bristles and fan the brush to remove loose bristles and dust. I do not clean the acid brushes. I toss them when I'm done, because for the cost (about sixteen cents if you buy them in bulk), I don't have to repeatedly expose myself to the toxic solvents required to clean any type of epoxy. For me at least, it is not worth the health hazard, which you will repeatedly encounter if you make baits in any quantity at all...say 50 baits a year times only two coats per bait...you are inhaling highly toxic chemicals 100 times per year...unless you wear a mask and how much trouble is that?

    I prefer to avoid mixing on paper or any other surface that might have tiny loose particles on it, because the tiniest of particles will usually show in the finish after it dries.

    Mix thoroughly. I use wooden sticks similar to popsicle sticks and despite the idea that it may throw a few bubbles into the mix, they work great. The heat gun removes all bubbles anyway. I know others prefer plastic mixing sticks of some type but I have easier access to popsicle sticks so I use them and toss them after using both ends several times. 99 times out of a hundred if you have bad patches which are still tacky after 24 hours, you failed to mix properly. Once in a great while, I've gotten a bad tube of Devcon. Devcon seems to have a finite shelf life. Try to buy the tubes that have the least amount of yellow in the one tube. It seems to be the "freshest" stuff and goes on a LOT easier and does not have the abbreviated working time that the very yellow tubes have. I've had no such problems with Envirotex lite.

    After mixing, dump the mixed epoxy into a clean cup. This precludes applying any unmixed epoxy which sometimes sticks to the sides of the cup you mixed in...use a clean cup and dip your brush into and apply epoxy from the second cup, not the one you mixed the stuff in.

    After application of the epoxy, take a moment and turn the bait over as you hold it under a light and carefully examine it for any fish eyes, missed spots or dust boogers. If you find dust, you can at times just remove them by wiping them off with your finger or rolling a toothpick next to them to sort of roll them onto the toothpick.

    Note: Good lighting is a key element in applying epoxy and for that matter, it is important in all aspects of bait building. I have four lights on my assembly/top coating bench. I've been told that it looks like Yankee stadium with all the lights.:) Spend some money and light your work areas properly. Your baits will thank you. I prefer "daylight" bulbs because I can see the colors of the bait and any specks or dust boogers as I top coat the baits.

    If you find minor dust or epoxy specks in the finish during the first one or two coats, you can usually leave them as they are and just sand them lightly with fine grade sandpaper prior to the application of the next coat. Of course the final coat is the one where you won't have the luxury if ignoring them because you can't sand them out afterward without scuffing the final finish.

    After you coat the bait in epoxy, pass a heat gun or hair dryer over the bait in a smooth rhythmic fashion. This will easily remove all bubbles cause by brushing. Cover the bait with the heat just once rotating the bait as you pass the gun over it. After you pass the heat gun over the bait, you must immediately begin to rotate the bait because the epoxy is now warmed and will be momentarily thinner and prone to running.

    I hold my baits in a small pair of vice grips (Walmart $2, Hardware dept). That makes it easy to rotate the bait after the heat gun has removed all the air bubbles. Note: Before you pass the heat gun or hair dryer over the bait, turn it on and let it run for a few seconds to blow out any dust that might be containted in the heat gun.

    Once you apply the epoxy and heat it with the heat gun, LEAVE IT ALONE and put it on the spinner or spin it by hand by holding the bait by the tail with a vice grips. Don't keep brushing it and trying to spread it...It will only get progressively worse and it will almost always flow itself out nice and level after normal brushing. LEAVE IT ALONE!~

    Try to apply the next coat before the previous coat has fully cured...once the first coat has dried to the point where the bait can be carefully handled. By doing this, the next coat will chemically bond to the first giving you the best possible bond between coats. I've had occasion to have to sand out aberrations in a finish and have noticed that allowing the epoxy to fully cure between coats creates a distinct separation between the two, which could create the possibility of delamination of the latter coats, especially with envirotex under certain conditions and most especially if the first coat is applied over foiling. With Devcon, I try to apply the second or next coat after 4 to six hours.

    With envirotex, which I use almost exclusively these days, I find that leaving it sit with a cover over the medicine cup (to preclude dust settling on the surface...I use a piece of scrap Lexan as a cover) makes it gel slightly. Because it is a bit thicker after allowing it to sit for ten to 15 minutes, it behaves much more like Devcon...goes on evenly, less prone to run, and far less prone to show dust and foreign particles. It will only slightly abbreviate your working time, but it will go on a bit thicker and require less coats to achieve any desired level of protection. By allowing it to thicken just a bit, I find that I can usually get by with three to four coats instead of four to six thin coats and the finishes are clearly superior and have far fewer flaws. It is probably the best tip I can share about envirotex. I've found that applying envirotex immediately after mixing encourages separations and fish eyes. I know there are times when you only want one thin coat, but even then I let it sit for 10 minutes and try to apply it sparingly while still covering the bait completely.

    Also note that when envirotex is first mixed up it has a tendency to take on a small static electricity charge...this is a MAJOR cause of dust wanting to cling to it after it is first mixed. That static charge tends to naturally burn off if you let is sit as I mentioned above. Far less problems with dust boogers. And dust boogers are NOT your friends.:D

    Here's an exotic link for bait builders only. You must be 18 or older to enter this site:D
    http://www.walgreens.com/store/product.jsp?CATID=304271&id=prod1606757
    Note that these cups have numbered marks on them so that a 50/50 mix is a breeze every time.
    Very titillating link wasn't it? C'mon, you know you liked it. :eek::D And if you liked that one, this one will really trip your trigger:
    http://www.rsquality.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=654&idproduct=3201

    :D
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Apr 30, 2015
  2. triton175

    triton175 STX 206 Viper

    Great tips, thanks Vince. I'll have to try the popsickle stick stirrers. I have been using toothpicks and I think they cause a lot of bubbles.
    Do you have an opinion on D2T storage? I just ordered some 9oz bottles and was wondering how to store them so that they stay "fresh" and don't turn yellow.

    Brian
     

  3. wow thats a lot of good information vince im going to have to print all this out and put by my table, thanks for posting all this.