Devcon 2T help

Discussion in 'Tackle Making' started by Cutt'em Jack, Feb 26, 2008.

  1. Cutt'em Jack

    Cutt'em Jack Musky Madman

    I've been trying to put my initial coat of epoxy on and am having troubles. I get one side on and when I start on the other side, the epoxy starts to set on me. I can't seem to be fast enough with the brush. It's driving me nuts! One side will look nice and the other side will have a wavy look to it. Is there any way to delay the set time with this stuff. I'm putting it on in the basement where it's probably in the low 60's. Does temperature have anything to do with the set time?
  2. Epoxy's are available in a variety of set/drying times, 5 min., 15 min. and 60 min. Your best selection would be available at a Model Hobby Shop. You can also thin the epoxy with alcohol.

  3. Jack, in addition to the good info from Short, you should also be aware that Devcon 2 ton is an epoxy with a finicky shelf life. If you get it "fresh," its a breeze to use. If you happen to get some old stuff, it will make you nuts.

    First, I'd go get a few new tubes of it. If you try to use up the remaining stuff, you'll most likely get similar results.

    Next try stirring it thoroughly but for a shorter time. Unlike Envirotex, Devcon requires a somewhat abbreviated stirring process.

    Finally, if it starts locking up one during application, hit it with the heat gun right away, and if its really bad, just smooth it as best you can an stop. You can sand it smoother after it hardens and then recoat the bare spots later as you attempt to sort of fill in around where you left off.

    Devcon 2 ton epoxy is harder than envirotex, and overall much easier to use, but it can be tempermental at times. There are some very balanced tradeoffs between the two.
  4. My .2 cents, keep at it Jack. I have been doing my Muskie lures over the last couple of months. You will get better at it the more you use it. Thanks to vc1111, my lures are now ready for those toothy guys! He gave me a lot of help, as I was reluctant at first thinking I would mess up my paint, etc. As I said you will get better at it and your lures will be protected and look better in the process. The epoxy brings out the paint in older baits.
  5. try it at room temperature(70). another thing, warm the lure with a hair dryer just before applying the epoxy. it will go on easier. a trick i do, if the epoxy is starting to stiffen i get some on a brush and breath on it. the breath warms it slightly and it will flow a little easier. another thing, after it is all applied blow it with a hair dryer on low setting to soften the epoxy slightly. not too much or you will get sags. practice on some scraps till you get a technique down.
  6. The warmer the epoxy, the faster it cures. Sounds like you either have the wrong epoxy (curing time) or you need to work a little faster. Smoothing with a hair drier will help. here's some good info on epoxies:
  7. Cutt'em Jack

    Cutt'em Jack Musky Madman

    Thanks for the responses. The last time I was in Wal-mart I grabbed 4 packages of 2t and they might of been sitting on the shelves for awhile. Can I add a second layer over the original, or is there prep work to do first? Guess I just have to work faster. Any tips on moving along faster? I've been working with the brush and painting it on. Does anyone pour the epoxy on the lure and then smooth it out with the brush? I believe this would be a lot faster, although it might make a bigger mess!
  8. Cutt'em,

    I am assuming you are using devcon 2ton epoxy. Here is the way I do it and have no problems. This is not the only way to do it, but it has worked for me for years and this is the only top coat I use because of the durability for Musky Teeth. First of all try not to handle your painted bait with your bare fingers. Your hands have natural oil on them that will have an adverse effect with the epoxy. I use disposable gloves. I use a piece of tin foil (disposable and cheap) and squirt out the desired amount. Keeping your epoxy on a flat surface instead of a mixing cup seems to increase the pot life. I mix with used plastic hobby brush handles. (I buy them at Wal Mart for $1.97 for 30 so they are disposable and work great for stir sticks and applying the epoxy) Plastic does not leave as many bubbles in the epoxy as a wooden stir stick so stay away from that. When you first start mixing it, it will cloud up, mix until it turns clear again and your ready to go, about 1 minute. I start from the front of the bait on top and apply in one direction towards the tail. Repeat on all sides. Make sure you get around the bill, screw eyes and 3d eyes thoroughly. Work as quickly as possible and try and make it as even as you can. If you try and put it on too thin, you will have problems. You don't want to glob it on either, but put enough on to smoothly stroke your brush. You will be able to feel if your brush is dragging. When your done, put it on your drying rack and begin rotating (4 to 6 RPMs is about right). I usually hit it with a heat gun and smooth out the bumps if any. Do not assume everything is good and walk away. You will have to baby sit your project for a several minutes to make sure there are no spots you missed or the devcon is drawing away from edges which it is famous for, or "fish eyes" are happening (fish eyes are small to medium craters that appear in the top coat that do not let the epoxy cover the area, usually caused from foreign matter on your bait). If you see any of these problems, no need to panick, stop your rotater and use the heat gun again with your brush and smooth these areas out and get them covered. One thing to keep in mind with the heat gun, don't boil the epoxy, just get it warm enough to run the epoxy slightly while you cover the spots. Turn the rotator back on and continue watching. Once the bait is dried enough and the tackiness starts you should be ok. I leave mine on the rack for about an hour then hang to dry overnight. I do all my recoats about 12 hours apart using the same method. I do lightly sand between coats and clean off with alcohol. I do keep the temperature around 75 in my shop while I am topcoating. There are no shortcuts for me on this process. It is the final step and one of the most important steps to completing a bait. A mediocre finish will make a great bait look bad......Hope this helps.

  9. fugarwi7

    fugarwi7 Lumberjack

    Well, I can't add much to what all of the pro's have given thus far, but I will add a thought from my experience, and I am a relative newbie. I have gone through the same frustrations with D2T. One thing I've learned is the fewer amount of strokes while applying results in a smoother, more consistant finish. I make sure I have enough on the brush and do pretty much the way rjbass described. But once I get the bait covered, I go around the lure with only one more "even everything out set of light pressure strokes" and then I quit messing with it. Hit it a few passes with the hair dryer and I am done.

    I used to keep brushing and thinking it wasn't smooth enough or evenly applied and almost every time it would turn out worse...just my thoughts!

    I also wash all of my brushes well in advance of needing them, let them dry and store them in a ziplock baggie for future use...Since I've started this practice, I have essentially eliminated any whole or small bristle debris getting on the baits while topcoating. Just before using, I pluck the wild bristles and fluff the bristles several times as an added cleaning step.

    And as previously mentioned, it does get easier...hang in there!
  10. I have a question about why wont epoxy, Devcon 5 minute, will not dry the same on a lure. Have done some jigging spoons in the past, and have covered with devcon, and 99% of the epoxy dries like it is supposed to, but might have 1 spot that is still tacky, and the rest of the lure is dry and hard.
    What causes this ?

    Hope you dont mind Jack, not trying to hi-jack your thread.
  11. The epoxy wasn't mixed thoroughly enough.