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Cost Involved - Pond Escavating

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by Salmonid, Jul 15, 2005.

  1. Ok, Im looking at escavating a pond, have labor and gas and machinery covered but need to estimate removing earth from the site. Anyone have any ideas on what it might cost me to have someone pick it up and remove it??
    Im guessing about 11,000 cubic yards of soil total ( about 1 acre if my calculations are correct)so after moving topsoil around, I would guess about 7500 -8500 Cubic Yards.
    Anyone know what a large dump truck will hold ( in Cubic Yards) and that will give me an idea on number of loads to move it.

    I do have several places interested in taking the dirt close by so that wont be a problem, just getting it moved.

  2. fishingful

    fishingful Time to fish!

    if i remember most dumptrucks can hold about 50 tons i dont know if that will help or not

  3. Orlando

    Orlando Set The Hook!

    You will need alot of the earth to build the dam with. Usually there isn't anything to haul away. Be sure to get someone who's specialty is building ponds. To many ponds are built by escavators who don't know how to properly build a pond and they leak. If you don't have a good clay base it will need hauled in and packed. During the dry seasons alot of ponds almost go gry because of leaks . Abuddy of mine had a several acre pond built and they spent many days running a sheeps foot over it to pack down the ground so it wouldn't leak. Another friend had one built were all they did was dig a hole and it's about dry now. Remember to have rock placed on the dam to keep muskrats from burring in it and also causing leaks. Good luck and congratulations on the pond. Wish I had the ground to build one!
  4. A tri or quad axle dump truck can legally haul about 16-18 cubic yards of fill dirt. Depending on the size of the bed they can physically fit more but will be over on axle weight and gross weight. If your hole calculates out to 8000 CY the actual volume of loose material will be closer to 10,000 CY due to the material swelling by about 25%.
  5. Figure trucking charges at anywhere from $60-90/hr. You'll also need a track loader to load the trucks and possibly a dozer to level/compact at the receiving site.

    Other options include:
    1) Selling the material to someone who will load and haul, or haul with you loading.
    2) Selling material by the load,delivered,with you loading and hauling.
    3) Giving the material away to someone who will load and haul.
  6. This couldn't be more true. We have 4 ponds on the farm. Out of the 4, 1 doesn't leak. :rolleyes: Some people are just too lazy to do things right. If someone says it doesn't need keyed, tell them to go home. My dad and grandpa learned the hard way. MUCH more has been spent on one of the ponds to fix it than it would have cost to be done right in the first place. At this point, I don't know how you could estimate how much dirt will need hauled away.
  7. Ok, all good info so far but wanted to clarify a few things, first of all the soil samples have not been taken yet but all the surrounding wells and test holes on this plateau show about 18" of good topsoil and then a clay/sand next 2 feet then pretty much clay down from there so initial estimates will be a 1 acre ( give or take) dug pond, ( this is where I got how much soil would be removed at 9 ft deep) so no dam will exist as it will be a hole in the ground.
    I am working with professional escavotors and the local Soil and Water extension agents.

    It will be filled with a pumped cold clear water from current well (house on city water so no big cost filling it) This allows several Pro's to your pond, first is that water is always clear, water will be cold enough to harbor cool water species at least through most of the year, water levels are always constant which is nice with gazebo, beach and maintaining edges. lastly the pond will never silt in from runoff nor do I have to be concerned with dam leaks or repairs. ( I might add that no dam will make it easier to hide in the back of my property so every Tom, Dick and Harry driving down the road wont stop to ask to fish it)

    anyways, I am hoping someone will offer to come and take the soil for free, and a lot of the dirt (topsoil) will be used to build up all around the pond and a fair amount of the Clay will be moved to another part of the property to build a base for the wifes horse riding arena (she is a horse trainer) BTW, if you single guys are looking for a good woman, get one with a horse and who loves to train them, key phrase is they have a more expensive and time consuming hobby then I do, gotta dig that!! ;) ( read I get to buy all the fancy equipment and have lots of time to fish without any bitch'n)

    I hope that helps

    Ill be in fishing heaven in 3 years!!
  8. contact your local extension agency or township, sometimes they are doing project like filling in ditches and other low areas and they may need the dirt. I know of several people who have sold or given the dirt away like this and it didnt cost them a penny
  9. I couldnt stress enough how much you shouldnt mow to the edges of your pond, especially all around it. I sorta got that impression you planned on doing it when you said "maintaining edges". Sure it looks great to not have any obstruction at any point, being able to fish every inch of shoreline, but you are doing yourself a disservice on multiple levels.

    1) not having any buffer of vegetation will cause increased/max loads of sediment and nutriets to be washed in and introduced into your system

    2) lack of shade causes temperature increases

    3) 1+2 = blue green algae bloom = $ to treat with chemicals and then no body is happy

    What I suggest is insructing your excavators to leave some shallow area to your pond that may become emergent in the very dryest parts of the year. This will naturally colonize with plants or you can plant on your own species such as various dogwoods dogwoods (Cornus racemosa, C. amomum and C. sericea), variuos small willows like silver and black, and rushes. Trees not only provide shade to your pond but also root habitat which are both beneficial to fish and the nutrient and temperature cycles. If you can keep a 15 - 25 ft buffer of unmowed area in strips around your pond too it will also be bioloigcally beneficial to the pond but will sereve as a wildlife attractant. I'm not saying the whole perimeter just in sections. Do a couple short sections then maybe mow yourself a 10ft wide area down to the shore so you can fish that section on either side of you unmowed easily and so on.

    Also key for the excavation is what your depths and countours will be like. Any cover you plan on placing in shallow water should be relatively close to deeper water, inside breaklines, some sort of physical difference in the bottom of your pond. Surface area and variation is the key, give the fish something to relate too. If you throw a christmas tree in put it near a drop or in a transitional area between deep water and a shallow flat.
  10. More good info and I am already with ya on that point AshtonMJ, I will have a point that is cleared off for fishing and about 90 percent of the border will have a buffer strip and I already have a bunch of trees to place around the back 90 percent of the pond for shade. As someone who designs and implements most of the structures on the Mad River, I am vey aware of how important the buffer zones and trees and habitat placement can be but thanks for pointing it out again, it can never be taken tolightly, also will have a shallow end with some controlled lilly pads and a few other water plants planted ( always being very careful not to introduce the wrong stuff), as far as maintained banks and the such, I meant having a constant water level for docks, bridge to island and rocks on shoreline surrounding the beach area to control bank erosion.
    Im closing sometime this week so the project will be in works over the next few weeks, Ill post as progress happens.
    Thanks again for the responses