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Clear coat help

Discussion in 'Tackle Making' started by buckeyebandit74, Nov 4, 2017.

  1. Was wondering if anyone has used a clear coat on their crankbaits other than epoxy. Was thinking about a clear coat for cars buts not sure. Epoxy either doesn't allow enough working time, or doesn't always set up. Had to toss quite a few lures after clearing due to the fact the final finish was tacky and wouldn't harden.
     
  2. Try Dick Nites S-81 clear coat. I use it on all of mine and it is holding up great.
     

  3. ezbite

    ezbite the Susan Lucci of OGF

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    polyurethane in a spray can works. if your epoxy is tacky, the 50/50 mixture isn't right. go buy a cheap digital postal scale, some small plastic shot glasses and go by weight, not volume. I like to nuke them for 3-4-5 seconds before mixing, makes the epoxy and hardener thinner and it mixes better and don't toss your screw up if still tacky, use rubbing alcohol to remove the tacky epoxy and just repaint the bait.
     
    HappySnag likes this.
  4. Thanks for all the info. Never even thought to warm up the epoxy. By the way, does epoxy have a shelf life? I've had my envirotex for about three years now and noticed one of the liquids were turning a brownish color. I've got a scale and try to keep the mix as close to 50/50 as I can. Just wondered if maybe the epoxy is going bad. As far as tossing my baits go. I usually carve my own so it's not that big of a loss. Lol. Just get so discouraged after spending all that time painting then for epoxy to not set I get a little perturbed. Lol
     
  5. I put a few drops of paint thinner or acetone in the epoxy when mixing. Makes it a lot easier to work with and gives you a few more minutes of use time. Also runs along the bait a little better when drying to get a smoother finish.
     
    HappySnag likes this.
  6. I thin mine with a few drops of alcohol the one that’s sold next to paint thinners and if the epoxy is setting up on the last lure just hit it with a hair dryer turns the epoxy back to a liquid in seconds
     
    HappySnag likes this.
  7. Mixing epoxy that is normally 50/50 by volume is very different than mixing 50/50 by weight. When mixing by weight you will need to know the weight of each component. That information can be found on the label of most quality epoxy products. If not check the web site. Last option, carefully measure out the same volume of each component into identical containers and weigh on a good scale to develop your own ratio. If the epoxy is not grossly past the advertised shelf life this should fix the sticky surface problem. Any of the previously coated sticky lures can be fixed with a correctly mixed new top coat. (usually)
     
    All Eyes likes this.
  8. Tacky epoxy can usually be narrowed down to improper ratios, improper mixing, or both.
    The only 2 types that I use on my baits are Devcon 2 ton and Envirotex Lite. Devcon for installing lips, eyes, and eye screws, and E-Tex for the top coats. Avoid using the 5 minute quickset epoxies regardless of brand. They will yellow and crack over time which will allow water to penetrate the surface. Devcon 2 ton comes in a double plunger type dispenser and can be tricky to get perfectly even amounts. Air bubbles being the biggest culprit. Storing it tip down can help. Also, start dispensing it on scrap paper until you have equal amounts coming out before making a batch.
    Regarding E-Tex, it's easy to get perfect batches every time. As Jim Paden said, equal weights of hardener and resin may be different amounts in volume. Try using medical syringes. Drug stores all have them and they are inexpensive. I mark one R and the other H, and reuse them after a good rinse with alcohol. They are inexpensive and almost impossible to screw up.
    Before you start, warm the 2 parts separately before mixing. You can soak the containers in warm water, or use a heat gun or hair dryer. I use the microwave, but it only takes a few seconds for small amounts because epoxy gets hot really fast. You just want it warm enough to thin the surface tension a bit to let air bubbles rise and pop. As with any 2 part epoxy, proper mixing is crucial. I then pour the mixture out on a flat disposable surface or container such as a plastic lid or paper plate. This allows more bubbles to pop. You can also blow on the epoxy for any additional bubbles, as the carbon dioxide in your breath will pop them.
     
    HappySnag likes this.