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bow problem

Discussion in 'Bowhunting' started by flypilot33, Aug 18, 2007.

  1. I am having some issues. I put a new drop away rest on my bow, got it paper tuned, and now I can't move my sights far enough to the right. It is a trophy ridge sight. Anyone else have this problem or know of a fix????
     
  2. I have the Trophy Ridge sights as well and they are very close. If I had to go any more I would be in trouble. Today I had the new Trophy Taker Extreme FC rest installed and I havn't shot yet. Going to go shoot tomorrow. I hope that hasn't forced me to move the sights to much. I don't know why they are so close, I was thnking it was just my bow. I have to say, I really love those sights though.
     

  3. Fishpro

    Fishpro Northcoast Madman

    Which sight is it, and what kind of bow? Can you flip the housing upside down and get more adjustment that way? I had a Sword that I could do that with. Any way you can post a pic of the sight on your bow?
     
  4. I am not very familiar with that sight...but is it something that you could use a few washers to shim the sight over to allow you to get the adjustment that you needed? I have a Cobra sight on my bow and I am almost out of adjustment to the right as well....
     

  5. I think that is what I may have to do. I am going to have the pro shop that paper tuned it make sure that the rest can't be moved left a little more which would solve a lot. I will let you all know after tomorrow.
     
  6. That used to be an old problem on some bows. The fix was pretty simple, we used to make a plexiglass shim to move the sight out away from the bow a little bit. Worked like a champ.
     
  7. Champion188 Elite

    Champion188 Elite Smallie slayer

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    flypilot33

    I read something interesting in your post............"The pro shop that paper tuned it"

    Please don't think I am a smart a$$
    BUT paper tune your bow your self!

    There are too many factors in having someone else paper tune for you.Here are a few examples.
    1.They may hold/grip the bow differently than you do.
    2.They may use a differant style release than you do whether it be fingers or mechanical.
    3.The other persons form/stance/posture is probably way differant than yours.
    4.They may be a strong shot or weak..........meaning that they may pull harder/easier into the wall at full draw than you do.
    All factors can/will dramatically change a paper tear.

    Most drop away rests paper tune very easily,that is why they are popular,the rest drops out of the way (if set up correctly) which eliminates any arrow or fletching contact with the rest as the arrow leaves the bow.

    Now I myself don't take alot of stock in paper tuning,I use it as a starting point only.Once I am satisfied I will begin group tuning.......meaning shooting groups of arrows,watching where/how they impact.One thing I have learned over many,many years of shooting a bow is................Just because it shoots a good hole in paper doesn't mean it will shoot good.

    Regardless of your paper tune you may still need to make adjustments to get your bow to shoot good groups.
     
  8. I was the one that shot it actually. Sorry. They were just helping me get it right. I got my sight right by adding a spacer. While I was there they told me some things I was doing wrong and now when I do them I have more problems than ever. I get too worried about what I am doing wrong and torque my bow all weird and my arrow looks like a porpoise flying. So I am gonna just go back to my "wrong way" of shooting which worked great for me. lol
     
  9. Maybe this question will sound stupid but wouldn't adding a spacer like a washer or something move the sight even further to the right? I see that it fixed your problem so I must be misunderstanding the problem. I'm just trying to figure it out in my head, that's all. I got to shoot my bow sunday after having my new drop away rest installed and luckily I had to move my sight to the left, any more to the right and it would have been against the bow.
     
  10. I could not adjust my sight far enough right, so I added the spacer, to move it over.
     
  11. what shops in columbus can you go to to get your bow tuned, or shoot through paper? where is a range you can shoot at? i know there is one up at delaware, i was just wondering if there were any more? thanks
     
  12. About every shop in town has worked on my bow at some point in time and I highly recommend Fisherman's Warehouse. I had it worked on at Gander Mountain one time and I most definitely wouldn't recommend that!!
     
  13. Okay I see, you were just out of adjustment to the right. I was thinking you couldn't adjust any more to the right because your sights was against your riser so adding a spacer would just cause more problem. I got it now, sometimes it'll take awhile but just keep talking slow, I'll eventually catch on!!
     
  14. Well I found the real problem. I took my bow to the Gander mountain in Huber Heights. A guy who works there now used to own a local pro shop and is good, so I tried em out. What I douns out was when olde english set up my rest they just set it to far right, thats why my bow shot so far right. He just set it more left and solved my problem, and it still shot bullet holes through paper. I ran into problems after that still. My arrows kept hitting the rest. It was not dropping. So I called Quality Archery Designs. They have great customer service by the way. I was told the rest is broken. The reason they gave was long and detailed, but said it was caused by improper set up. They are replacing the rest free of charge. But I won't be letting olde english work on my bow again.
     
  15. Lundy

    Lundy Staff Member

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    Sorry for the late response, I just found this.

    With todays sights and offset risers you shouldn't need to shim sights to allow for enough pin adjustment. If you have to make those kinds of adjustment something else is wrong.

    My thought was that you center shot was set wrong and as it turns out that is the problem Gander found for you.

    One way to easily check center shot is to just shoot the bow at increasing yardages. If at each increase in yardage the arrow impacts further in one direction,( to the right in your case if you are right handed), you just slightly move the rest position to the left. Continue this process until your arrows at 20, 30, and 40, or even 50 yards do not deviate left or right from the centerline. I do not encourage 50 yard, or even 40 yd shots for hunting but the longer yardage helps identify bow setup deficiencies.

    NOTE: If you cant(tilt) your bow as part of your normal shooting form your sight pins will increase either in or out (depending on direction of tilt)as yardage increases. To effectively check you center shot shoot all yardages with the same pin and look for horizontal deviation.

    The last part of this bow tune check would be to shoot a couple of arrows in a 20 yd target. Then shoot an identical arrow but with no fletching. If this bare shaft impacts the same spot as the fletched arrow you KNOW your bow is tuned very well.

    Paper tuning is nothing more than a good starting point in bow tuning. It quickly helps identify major, center shot, noc set, and spline problems. In no way does a good hole through paper mean that your bow is tuned as well as it should be or could be.