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Discussion Starter #1
does anyone use a casting setup for throwing walleye cranks from shore? I have always been a spinning rod kinda guy but my buddy talked me into getting a casting rod and reel to start using and try to get comfortable with. I can pretty much use it without too many birdnests but I cannot get much distance at all so I figured I would ask all of you incredible walleye anglers if you have any input or suggestions so I can hopefully take it to CLE and actually get my lure a decent distance when I cast. I will always have my go to spinning rods with me just trying to try something new and appease my buddy Todd.
Thanks. -Kyle
 

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your magnetic anti-backlash control may be cranked up too much... many reels have them... try slowly backing off that control as you cast... yes you will increase your chances of a birds nest, but you can learn to control that better with your thumb on the spool... something us old timers learned to do well before anti-backlash controls came around.
Pick up a plastic casting practice plug and spend some hours in your backyard. Good Luck
 

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Some cranks just plain cast better than others. Casting into the wind can be tough. Light cranks can be hard to cast also. Keep playing with your settings on your real. I just set up a new casting Abu Garcia rod this past year using a 7'-6" rod medium heavy with a softer tip. I'm impressed with the way it casts. Yes every once and awhile it bird nests.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Some cranks just plain cast better than others. Casting into the wind can be tough. Light cranks can be hard to cast also. Keep playing with your settings on your real. I just set up a new casting Abu Garcia rod this past year using a 7'-6" rod medium heavy with a softer tip. I'm impressed with the way it casts. Yes every once and awhile it bird nests.
I have a 7’ lightening rod with a gander mountain vortex on it that I am borrowing until I get used to casting it. I will either get a abu c4 winch or a kastking reel possibly the mega jaws. But whatever I get I want something with a very low gear ratio because I tend to reel pretty fast but I appreciate the advice buddy thank you
 

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One thing I did when learning to use a baitcaster is to cast out as far as you can and then pull another 5-10 yards of line out. Then put a piece of electrical tape on the line on the spool and reel all your line back in. This will prevent many bad birdnests when you are out on the lake trying to learn to use your new reel.

That being said, I only use baitcasters when fishing with some weight on the end like for carp or catfish. I haven't found one where I can cast a small crank or a 1/16oz jig and twister like a spinning reel.
 

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Not trying to talk you out of it. But I'd bring a spare spinning combo especially if you're going at night, it's hard enough to fix a backlash under ideal conditions, in the dark, wind on a slippery rock is not one of them.

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Ditto on this. Also bird nest prevention relies on being able to thumb the real timely just as the bait hits the water. It's really tough to time it up in the dark.
 

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I've been using baitcasters for over 30 years. When you get you brake adjusted properly, (anti-backlash) you will have little if any trouble with it.
Keeping in mind all the good advise you already got from these guys, rsdata hit the nail on the head, practice, practice and more practice will make one efficent with them.
One other thing to ponder, don't be affraid to spend a little more money on a good one, you'll be glad you did. All i use are Shimanos as i feel they second to none.
 

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stick with your spinning tackle for shoreline casting at night, bait casters are made for accuracy and so you can fish very heavy line on a small combo to winch fish out of weeds. they aren't made for distance.
 

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I've been using baitcasters for over 30 years. When you get you brake adjusted properly, (anti-backlash) you will have little if any trouble with it.
Keeping in mind all the good advise you already got from these guys, rsdata hit the nail on the head, practice, practice and more practice will make one efficent with them.
One other thing to ponder, don't be affraid to spend a little more money on a good one, you'll be glad you did. All i use are Shimanos as i feel they second to none.
I agree, you will notice a great deal of difference between a cheap reel and one that costs a little more money (no need to break the bank though). Getting your breaks adjusted is very important as stated before. I’d also like to suggest that your lure and line weight need to be within the specs of the rod you’re using, this will have a great effect on your casting. The rod specs and length will also play a big roll in casting. Having everything working together will make your casting experience more enjoyable. But that’s just my 2 cents, for what it’s worth...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks a whole lot guys I think I have to take the abundance of suggestions and not try to use the casting rod at night or when the conditions are unfavorable. But I do have intentions on getting a better reel but at the moment I just wanted one to start using and getting comfortable with. On all of my spinning rods I have braid with a fluoro leader and I imagine I will do the same on the casting setup but I don’t want to put pricey line on it until I get a bit smoother on casting and can cast repeatedly with out nesting it numerous times and I plan on buying a good reel I tend to reel a little too fast so I want a low gear ratio maybe an ambassador c4 winch but anything could happen I just can’t spend $300 on a nice ass shimano or something
Once I figure it out I will try to remember and post what I end up with. But I will probably put whatever I get on a 7’MH lightening rod I may even end up getting a complete new rod and reel at some point You can never have too many fishing rods!
 

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The tension knob is more important to set than the magnetic brakes. It’s located under the star drag. It lets you balance the spool with the weight of your lure. Let your lure hang 1’ from the tip of the rod and loosen the tension knob until the lure falls slowly to the ground and stops. This will balance your spool with your lure. If you change lures reset the tension accordingly. Heavier lure, tighten, lighter lure loosen. You can set the magnets all the way at first if you like. They kick in when spool starts slowing down towards the end of the cast to help stop the spool so you wont get the overrun.

Get a reel with a larger spool that will hold a lot of line. At least 150-200 yds of 10lb test. This allows the line to come off smoothly without any drag as it gets close to the end of the cast. There’s a lot of good cranking reels on the market.

Lastly get a cranking rod that has a fiberglass composite or a medium action graphite rod with a fast tip at least 7’ or longer. You’ll need to load the rod when casting. Let your crank hang 18”-24” from the tip. This will let the rod load when your casting and “shoot” the lure out. And always try to cast down wind if possible. You’ll be surprised how far you cast a crankbait if you have the right equipment.

Definitely takes some practice, but you should be able to adapt to it quickly.
 

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Amen to this. If you get comfortable with a baitcaster you can launch baits.
The tension knob is more important to set than the magnetic brakes. It’s located under the star drag. It lets you balance the spool with the weight of your lure. Let your lure hang 1’ from the tip of the rod and loosen the tension knob until the lure falls slowly to the ground and stops. This will balance your spool with your lure. If you change lures reset the tension accordingly. Heavier lure, tighten, lighter lure loosen. You can set the magnets all the way at first if you like. They kick in when spool starts slowing down towards the end of the cast to help stop the spool so you wont get the overrun.

Get a reel with a larger spool that will hold a lot of line. At least 150-200 yds of 10lb test. This allows the line to come off smoothly without any drag as it gets close to the end of the cast. There’s a lot of good cranking reels on the market.

Lastly get a cranking rod that has a fiberglass composite or a medium action graphite rod with a fast tip at least 7’ or longer. You’ll need to load the rod when casting. Let your crank hang 18”-24” from the tip. This will let the rod load when your casting and “shoot” the lure out. And always try to cast down wind if possible. You’ll be surprised how far you cast a crankbait if you have the right equipment.

Definitely takes some practice, but you should be able to adapt to it quickly.
 

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Kyle, you may want to check out Lew's for a low speed reel. I've personnally never owned one, but i've heard good things about them. I would call them medium priced.
 

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At night I would use a spinning reel...like said, you can't see anything...mainly the lure hitting the water...which can cause problems with a casting reel, especially with no experience...
 

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Personally I would get something other than a c4 for distance. Kast king is junk. For a low speed retrieve I'd get a Daiwa tatula 5.4 ratio. 2nd choice would be the Lew's. Revos can be expensive to repair. I don't think Shimano offers a 5 to 1 ratio. They offer the slx in a 6.2 for 99. Fabulous reel for hundred bucks
 

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kast king is fancy for the price but it doesn’t preform as well as it’s reviews state it to be. Jmho...
 

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Match the weight of the small baits to the rod. Bass Pro shop has a crankin stick that comes in different lengths and actions.
 
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