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Anything and everything about Knives & Sharp Stuff...derailing permitted.

30872 Views 490 Replies 42 Participants Last post by  Lazy 8
I had some stuff I wanted to post about knives on the Kitchen Knives post but if you know me...I'm not a Derailer! (yea, right)
So I decided to start a new post about knives or tomahawks or axes or any sharp piece of steel.
I'll start this off with a knife I found back in around 1973. It was laying in the middle of the road just past some RR tracks. Prolly bounced off a tailgate or bumper.
It was severely "bellied out" by someone using and sharpening that sweet spot. The stacked leather handle was extremely loose. The sheath was dry rotted.
It's a PAL brand knife and it has a RH stamped just about PAL. RH stands for Remington hunting. Very good high carbon steel. Diesel, would you guess maybe a spring steel?
I sent it to a maker back in the early 2000's who drilled out the pommel, cleaned up the tang and reglued every piece of leather. He then regrind the edge to what you see.
One thing I forgot to mention is this knife is from the WWII era.



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I would leave it...unless you don't like it. Maybe after you abuse it a few times...
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Just picked this up, and plan to use and abuse it. I will be using it a lot for camp food prep. Would you suggest stripping the coating (I've never done anything like that), or leaving as is?


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What the steel? 1095? I strip all the coating off of mine. I hate painted blades. But if it is 1095 carbon steel and you do strip it, you'll have to take precautions to keep it from rusting. Gun blue looks real sweet on a carbon steel blade. So does a forced patina using hot apple cider.
If you do strip it and want to put a light layer of oil on her, use mineral oil.
I've had one of those since the mid 2000's. Great knife.
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I just ordered three diamond plates to grate the stone on my Wen with. I have been using the grating stone from Tormek but after looking at some results of both the stone and diamond plates it looks like there is a dramatic difference in results using diamond plates. There fairly cheap at around $10.
I was wondering if anyone else uses the diamond plates and if you noticed a difference?
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I do, GGF. I think mine is a 400 grit i use to reface, the go back to the fine Tormek stone.
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I tried ‘em yesterday. Wow, the 80 grit really put a nice surface on the stone. Much easier than the stone resurfacer from Tormek. I also used the 400 to put a fine finish on the knives, again nice finish. I ordered a 1000 grit plate as well. On the site Australian Knife Grinders he states the 1000 plate will get the stone to a 1500 grit.
Have a question for you Diesel. I am having difficulties with knives that have a dramatic drop point… like a K-Barr. Normally I raise the knife as I approach the tip. That isn’t working as the grind angle is way too shallow as it approaches the tip.
Just wondering if you or anyone can help me out or point me to a video with a good technique?
Thanks.
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If i'm understanding what you mean, your talking the the taper to the point?
If that is what you mean, i pull the handle of the knife toward me as i approach the tip very gently against the platten. It takes a good bit of practice to get it down to the same angle on both sides.
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If i'm understanding what you mean, your talking the the taper to the point?
If that is what you mean, i pull the handle of the knife toward me as i approach the tip very gently against the platten. It takes a good bit of practice to get it down to the same angle on both sides.
I have the process down when using the 1x30 bench sander, the issue I had was on the Wen. When I do a knife like a Ka-Bar where the tip drops sharply I am getting a much narrower edge angle as I approach the tip. On most knives I lift the blade as it approaches the tip. That does fine. Not so on the Ka-Bar.
Anyone have any suggestions?
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In case you were wondering….
I had mentioned I have a BESS tester that measures the force it takes to cut a specific media. Today I was watching some videos on stropping and I see a mistake folks are making over and over. They strop too much.
When I first got the tester I measured stropping results a gizillion times. What I found out was that I was spending too much time on stropping. After 7 or 8 passes per side on a hard leather strop with some sort of honing paste on it the sharpness would start to drop. The same is true if your using a leather belt on a machine. Less is better.
With no paste it takes much longer to booger up the apex as long as you use very light strokes but results come slower as well.
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In case you were wondering….
I had mentioned I have a BESS tester that measures the force it takes to cut a specific media. Today I was watching some videos on stropping and I see a mistake folks are making over and over. They strop too much.
When I first got the tester I measured stropping results a gizillion times. What I found out was that I was spending too much time on stropping. After 7 or 8 passes per side on a hard leather strop with some sort of honing paste on it the sharpness would start to drop. The same is true if your using a leather belt on a machine. Less is better.
With no paste it takes much longer to booger up the apex as long as you use very light strokes but results come slower as well.
Very interesting observation, ggf. Learn something new every day.

On your earlier post, i do it the same as you do, lift. I don't re gauge my blade thickness after sharpening. Is it noticeable by eye?
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Very interesting observation, ggf. Learn something new every day.

On your earlier post, i do it the same as you do, lift. I don't re gauge my blade thickness after sharpening. Is it noticeable by eye?
Yes it is. I have bought junk knives in the past to practice on, I’m thinking I need to find a cheap knife with that configuration to practice on.
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Yes it is. I have bought junk knives in the past to practice on, I’m thinking I need to find a cheap knife with that configuration to practice on.
I wish I could help you out but I never got into belt sharpening.
There was a guy on a knife forum I belong to who swore on paper wheels for sharpening. Have either of you tried that?
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I wish I could help you out but I never got into belt sharpening.
There was a guy on a knife forum I belong to who swore on paper wheels for sharpening. Have either of you tried that?
The issue I’m having is on the Wen. 10” wet grinding stone.
I will probably add a variable speed grinder for a paper wheel to my shop this fall. I have read that paper or felt wheels coupled with an adjustable guide does an exceptional job of removing the burr root.
These pics show the buffer with a CBN wheel on it but the setup works perfectly with slotted paper wheels for controlled angle edge refinement.
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Here's an older thread from a dude that sharpened knives using a paper wheel that might help.
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Again, quite interesting,
I have never used paper, but i have (and at times still do) used an MDF 10" wheel. I does a remarkable job.
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Picked this knife today. Was told it was a patch knife. Don't know much about it. hop


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Picked this knife today. Was told it was a patch knife. Don't know much about it. hop
View attachment 511234 View attachment 511235

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Nice knife, Hop. From what I can find, it might of been sold as a kit knife. Remember, I said might of been.

Green River Patch Knife Kit
Kit includes:eek:ne pacific paring blade, set of curly maple scales, 3 sets of cutler rivets, illustrated instruction book
Green River Patch Knife Kit
Kit includes:eek:ne pacific paring blade, set of curly maple scales, 3 sets of cutler rivets, illustrated instruction book.

Either way, it sure is unique. Good score.
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Nice knife, Hop. From what I can find, it might of been sold as a kit knife. Remember, I said might of been.

Green River Patch Knife Kit
Kit includes:eek:ne pacific paring blade, set of curly maple scales, 3 sets of cutler rivets, illustrated instruction book
Green River Patch Knife Kit
Kit includes:eek:ne pacific paring blade, set of curly maple scales, 3 sets of cutler rivets, illustrated instruction book.

Either way, it sure is unique. Good score.
Thanks, Lazy 8. Picked it up with a nice nichols m3961 leather tool pouch for 4 bucks. Fits the pouch nicely. hop

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Nice knife, Hop. From what I can find, it might of been sold as a kit knife. Remember, I said might of been.

Green River Patch Knife Kit
Kit includes:eek:ne pacific paring blade, set of curly maple scales, 3 sets of cutler rivets, illustrated instruction book
Green River Patch Knife Kit
Kit includes:eek:ne pacific paring blade, set of curly maple scales, 3 sets of cutler rivets, illustrated instruction book.

Either way, it sure is unique. Good score.
Should be a nice morel knife for next year. hop


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As lazy said, nice score.
Curly maple is one of my favorite woods. Couple people on this site are getting curly maple scales on their knives from me, that is when my back heals up and i'm able to finish them.
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As lazy said, nice score.
Curly maple is one of my favorite woods. Couple people on this site are getting curly maple scales on their knives from me, that is when my back heals up and i'm able to finish them.
Thanks, $diesel$. I recognized the name and made in U.S.A. means a lot to me. I have a skinning knife made by Russell knives also. hop

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