Any Blazer mechanics in here?

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by Chuck P., Aug 26, 2007.

  1. Chuck P.

    Chuck P. Here We Go Steelers

    This thing is driving me crazy. It's a '94 4WD, S-10 Tahoe with a 4.3L Vortec engine.

    At idle, she shakes and rattles and when you're driving at speed, it's surging. Even with my foot off the gas I can still feel the surge.

    I had the EGR valve replaced a few months ago, but the trouble code I get out of it is 32 again (EGR). Could that $200 piece of &!!@$ have gone bad again, or could there be something else I should be looking for?

    The catalytic convert has been taken off, but it's only been off about 3 weeks now. "I heard" that the converter could have gotten clogged and plugged the EGR valve.

    Around my neighborhood, neither Autozone nor Advance Auto has the code scanner plug for my vehicle. I guess that would be too easy right?

    Any helpful hints? I sure would appreciate it.
  2. Broken or plugged vacum line to the egr sol.,bad egr sol. plugged egr. passage.

  3. Take The Egr Valve Off And Clean The Piece Of Carbon Out From Under The Pintle Valve,replace The Gasket Under The Egr Valve With One With A Stainless Screen,available At Part Stores. No More Problems. Mike
  4. When I start lookin at someones car wether the check eng light is on or not, Ill throw a gauge on it to check. If its low, a Vortec wont run for crap. Start there and then go electrical. Fuel pressure will tell if injectors,pump,filter and check valve are working. Hoses are another cheap fix and worth looking over as mentioned. EGR should only open at full throttle but will leak if not seating. Let me know what ya find.
  5. Chuck P.

    Chuck P. Here We Go Steelers

    Thanks for the tips.
  6. Yes, your EGR can foul very quickly - particularly in an older engine which has more carbon build-up to shake loose & then stick in the valve.

    Now on my 4th @ 138,000 miles - the 1st replaced @ only 12,900! ('95 S-10 Vortec)

    Have you replaced the o2 sensor? Their efficiency fades w/age so some mechanics consider them a "wear item" & just replace them @ 60,000. Mine failed completely @ 70,000 (while pulling the boat, of course) : no idle, loss of low end power & surging @ speed. However, I got no check engine light. Installed new sensor & drove around for about 15 rough miles, while the ECU reprogrammed itself, & it suddenly smoothed out just like magic!
  7. Those 4.3L Vortec engines ane very well known for having problems with their injection systems. is VERY informative and have used it for about 9 years now and never has failed me!
  8. Chuck P.

    Chuck P. Here We Go Steelers

    Well, I contacted the dealership where I bought the new egr valve and it was covered under warranty thank goodness. I pick it up tomorrow.

    I spoke with a couple mechanics while I was there (good friends of my brother in law who works there) and they all seem to think the spider gear for the fuel injection has gone bad.

    Dealer price= $448 and change, Autozone or Advance run around $200.

    Someone wanna buy a Blazer? I'm unemployed and really don't have the extra to fool with this right now. Sounds like an easy fix if you can afford the part.

    I'm going to replace the valve and install a screen gasket and pray. Sticking a For Sale sign in it tomorrow as well.

    If interested, PM me. I'll make a thread in the B/S/T section once I have it running again.
  9. That spider injection unit is a common item to be replaced. Not too hard to do from what I understand but they are very pricey!!
  10. While on the topic of Blazer problems maybe someone can help answer this one:

    I just had the transmission rebuilt in my 97' Blazer and now all of the sudden the gas mileage went to crap. It gets 9MPG on the highway on cruise control at 60MPH downhill. It use to average 17.5MPG, now it has never even come close to that, so what the heck is going on?

    My guess is that it's some sensor. I just hope it isn't a mechanical issue.
  11. My uncle is a GM mechanic, and he said the newer, S-10's,Bravadas,Sonoma's jimmy and blazers are junk. lots of transmission, and electrical problems. i had a 1998 Sonoma the tranmission went out at 80,000 miles. my friend had a 1999 Blazer that was going through an alternator every month, he sold that and got an malibu, i sold my sonoma, and got a 1988 chevy beretta. i have been driving an 500.00 car for 4 years now with 186,000 miles on it. i drive it a different lake every my insurance on my beretta is 90.00$ every 6 months and i have no car payment.4 years i have owned it i maybe put 300.00 in repairs in it if that.
  12. Chuck P.

    Chuck P. Here We Go Steelers

    I heard that. The best running vehicles I've ever owned have been the cheapest. Both in fuel cost and repairs.

    I bought a 98 Geo Metro with less than 94K miles on it for $1,200 and besides eating a touch of oil every now and then, she drives nice.

    Hey, I'll trade someone even up for a pick up truck that runs. Auto or manual. Then you can fix this blazer for a nice profit! :D :D
  13. if i buy another S-10 it will be the box style body 1's.
  14. Chuck P.

    Chuck P. Here We Go Steelers

    That's what my brother-in-law is looking for, or at least, he was.

    I just listed mine in the Marketplace.
  15. Chuck P.

    Chuck P. Here We Go Steelers

    Well, after browsing through the internet for any other source of my problem, I found a website that took me through the steps to diagnosis this myself.

    I quickly found out that the fuel pressure regulator was leaking gas like there was no tomorrow. No lines were leaking and the main spyder assembly was clean and dry.

    Not a $300 repair ($298 from Advance Auto Parts), but a $60 repair with the new regulator and the new plenum gasket. And to think I almost gave this thing away.

    I officially love the internet..:)
  16. Do you still have the error code 32? your fuel pressure regulator should not set that code it should set a code 44 or 45 rich exhaust if you still have tha code and the cel. light is not on it was most likely never cleared from the computer after you egr valve was replaced, or you still have another issue.
  17. Chuck P.

    Chuck P. Here We Go Steelers

    After running the truck today, the problem came back:( Same code 32 (EGR) and the same idle problem.

    I'm taking the plenum off again this weekend to see if it's leaking fuel somewhere and changing the fuel filter. If the spyder and fuel regulator are dry, then it could be a throttle position switch, Idle control switch, map sensor...Hell, it could be anything along the fuel line for that matter.

    I guess the worse case scenario is that I end up putting a new injector (spyder) on it and smile. At least I'll know 100% when I tear it apart again.

    This is my first experience with fuel injection and it's not that bad. I actually like troubleshooting this thing. Once I figure it out completely, I'm starting a blazer repair service ;) I should be an expert by then.
  18. Before taking the plenum off again,make sure there is not another piece of carbon stuck in the egr valve,very common.
  19. Chuck P.

    Chuck P. Here We Go Steelers

    Oh yeah. I was told I could take the EGR valve off and start the truck to blow any loose carbon out then check the valve itself for clogging.

    My battle plan: Clean/inspect the EGR, then hook up a fuel pressure meter and go from there. If the EGR is good and the fuel pressure is good, then I think it would almost have to be a sensor of some sort.

    The weird part about this is, yesterday it ran fine until it got hot. This morning I went out to start it and the check engine light wasn't on, but it idled bad. Weird.
  20. Chuck, I work at a Chevy dealer. The code 32 is an EGR fault and will only be caused by a problem with the EGR valve itself. There is a sensor in the valve that detects how far open the valve is, if it sees a position that is wrong it will set a code. With the fact that it is running bad the most likely problem is a piece of carbon getting stuck in the valve-this is a very common problem on this engine. Take the valve off and inspect it, start the engine with the valve off to blow any carbon out of the passage. And like was stated earlier try to get an aftermarket gasket with a screen in it that will keep the carbon from getting in the valve.
    Hope this helps.