Any Basement Waterproofers out here?

Discussion in 'The Lounge' started by harle96, Jan 4, 2009.

  1. harle96

    harle96 Draggin Meat

    I've been fighting Efflorecense for 15 years about 40 inches and lower in the basement.

    Well decided to try once again to conquer it. Scrapped all of the loose paint and old drylok coating down to bare block in most places and felt confident that after the crete was etched and parged with waterstop that the minerals would not be able to penetrate to the airs surface.

    I was wrong. The morning after the efflorecense burned through.

    This is a Century home in West Side of Cleveland. They are notorious for moisture. No drain tile. I can't afford to fix it correctly on the exterior ($10,000).

    I know their are other options. This link below is one of them. You think this would work in my situation? I do not have standing water, but assume that I have 40 inches of water filled in my block walls. Sound logical?

    This system would cost around 1,200.00.
  2. you know that you can not connect this to the sewer ? you would have to pump it out of the house to the street or were ever!!

  3. harle96

    harle96 Draggin Meat

    Thanks for the info Joe. I'm capable to do whatever is necessary to properly divert the water. I've always worked with the City on any of my projects. Just thought this may be a better solution than trenching aroung the interior perimeter.

    Looks like I'll give B-dry a call and get an estimate. Anyone have any luck with their system?
  4. I had a similar problem (1890's home near Akron). I had lower wall seepage, and seepage up through cracks in the floor.

    After much thought and investigation here is what I did. I have about 16-18" of nice well drained top soil on top of several feet of clay. I installed a shallow french drain along the wet side of the house and across the front yard. Both are set just into the clay. My lot slopes from front to back. The drain across the front yard recieves water flowing along the good soil/clay margin and diverts it away from the house. The wet side of the basment is the gravel driveway. I used plastic sheeting under the french drain in the worst leakage area (front room with dirt floor) and ran both lines to the back of the back yard where it daylights after passing through/over a deeper infiltration/water storage trench. I intended to use a coupple drums as drywells, but when I did a test pit perc test the clay subsoil didn't absorb the water. While I was at it I redid the grading around the house (in the areas I dug). I don't think it was too bad before, but now I have more of a slope away from the house.

    My basment is now 99.5% dryer, dehumidifier has not kicked on in a coupple months. Cost was less than $1,000 with rental of a mini backhoe, 20tons of gravel, piping............. I did it with just a bit of help from a family member in a 4-day weekend and spent the equivelant of another long weekend planting mulching.......

    My problems were mostly after a good long rain, hard fast rain, big snow melt....but in hindsite, I always had a damp basment.

    My thought is that the shallow groundwater (rainfall drainage....) was running along the clay/topsoil margin and where this meets the house, it was running down along the walls to the base of the wall/floor where it would seep in. Also, I have the hollow ceramic tile blocks. I discovered that the ends of the block are not capped with concrete or anything. So I believe a small amount of water was entering my walls through these ends and cuasing the efflorenence.
  5. Sounds like Boss 302 knows his stuff. That was a good fix to help stop the surface water. I am an old basement digger and home builder. I always say that you have only one time to do a basement right. I always put tile inside and out. It don't cost that much at the time. Always make sure that you have weep holes in the bottom row of block and gravel just over the holes. When people tell me that they have wet block in the bottom 1/3 area, that means the block are holding water. I have seen times when the block layer did not leave me weep holes. I would take a star punch and knock some in before I would pour the basement. I have seen water shoot out of these weep holes that I knocked in for 15-30 seconds. The block were holding water. I think that is what Bdry basement does. They cut your floor from the inside next to the wall and knock in weep holes and tile it around to a new sump. Hope this helps. PS, don't backfill with gravel. You would think that it helps but it is just the opposite. It draws water to the wall. Clay will seal against the wall.