anchor advice

Discussion in 'Canoes & Kayaks' started by streamstalker, Jul 12, 2007.

  1. streamstalker

    streamstalker deleted

    Just bought my first yak and have had it out on the Olentangy the last two days and landed a few smallies. Man, I love this thing! My question is how do you anchor a kayak? It seems like it could be dangerous even in slow current. I was thinking I could tie it to the back pull rope and then toss it over, but then I don't know how I would retrieve it. Throwing it over the side seems like a stupid and dangerous idea.
  2. Try a 'quetico anchor'. On trips to the boundary waters/quetico, I will use an anchor made from a basketball net, adding rocks to the net (collected lake/stream side) depending on the wind/current. Tie the bottom of the net together tightly. Loop a rope thru the top of the net, threadng thru the loops where it attaches to the rim. Tie a loop at the end of the rope around the anchor rope (so it slides to close), creating a basket where you can add/remove rocks as the current dictates.

    It normally doesn't take very much weight to stop or slow down a 'yak. A bit more for a canoe.

  3. creekwalker

    creekwalker Moving water...

    Maybe LittleMiamiJeff will chime in here shortly, because he had a pretty neat anchor system. His yak is long (maybe 13'+?) so you can't really reach the end of the boat, so he had some small pulleys mounted in it where he could raise and lower his anchor.

    As for the kind of anchor, I like the kind that will open into a claw, but you can also keep them closed if you just want to drift a little slower.

  4. If you read the different kayak fishing boards you can read both sides of the anchoring in current debate. Some people are flat out against it but I have no problems doing it. You just need the right equipment and a little common sense.

    There are many different ways to rig up an anchor trolley on a kayak. They will work on SOTs and SinKs. I've never had problems drilling holes in boats but if you are squeamish there are ways to rig up a trolley without drilling holes using your carry handles at the bow and stern. You can use pulleys but they are just an added expense. D-rings, welded rings, or cheap carabiners will work just as well.

    I don't have any pictures (yet) but my trolley is basically a continuous loop with a pad eye in the middle of the kayak to hold it tight to the hull. Since the pad eye divides the system I have a brass ring on either side of the eye. I tie the anchor on to either ring using a "Highwayman's Hitch". I can then position the anchor in any position along the length of the boat. The knot is a quick release knot so if needed I can give the line a quick jerk and be free of the anchor.

    I use a 3lb folding anchor with about 75' of line on a dumbbell shaped marker buoy. The buoy will allow me to go back and retrieve the anchor if necessary.

    I am also pretty faithful about wearing my PFD in the kayak. It makes it easier to find the body. LOL.
  5. streamstalker

    streamstalker deleted

    Thanks for the advice all. From what I have read here, I can see that I am not ready for this yet. It does not sound like novice stuff.
  6. StuckAtHome

    StuckAtHome Mad SOT YAKER!

    I have a simple system I made from stuff laying around. I took a short piece of rope( I use the rope I tie to the front of the yak to drag thru riffles) with carbines on both ends. I worked in the concrete business before I got sick so I took and old jointer made of brass. hook the line to it( line is less than 15 feet, my creeks average 3 foot or less) then on the yak I have rings to tie things down I put a small tie strap in a loop(its lightweight so if for some reason the anchor wants to drown me they break very easy) and hook the other end to it and it can be hooked on either side of the boat near the middle. Its light enough and doesn't drag in bigger current just enough to slow me down, in slow current I'll stop, very handy below a set of riffles to fish them completely without paddling. Now the water is low and I'll only use it where its safe, no cold water anchoring for me or raging current, most of the time the anchor is in 3-4 feet of water, and its only 15 feet long and no water I fish gets that deep, just be safe.
  7. In waves (Lake Erie) you definetly want the anchor to the bow or stern. A pully system is the easiest way. Some shock cord securing the pully system to the boat really takes some of the thump out of the line. Any way you do it you have to have a way to quick release or cut away from the anchor line. Bad feeling to be hammered by some huge boats wake or sudden 4-5 footers and struggle to get off anchor. A few of mine are at the bottem of good ol Lake Erie. Not my boat though.
  8. Lewzer

    Lewzer Powderfinger

    I just used two bricks tied end-to-end, the kind with three holes in it. It layed on the top of the kayak just behind my seat and I tied it off to one of the seat supports.
    It worked real well. I've also used a downrigger ball but I didn't like it rolling around inside the kayak.
  9. StuckAtHome

    StuckAtHome Mad SOT YAKER!

    I find that you don't need alot of weight to stop you on our rivers/streams around here. I think my setup is less than 2 pounds, maybe a pound. Quick clips are my safety factor, I can unhook if problems happen. I just use it after floating a riffle, throw it out( I shorten it to about 6 feet, rope that is) on the side of the boat I want facing upstream(quick connect on both sides) most of the time it drags a few feet then stops me, then I can fish the eddy pockets without worrying about position, and it slack water its a no brainier. If we had deeper water and swifter current with cold water I would think twice before using, but where I use it danger from the anchor is almost zero.
  10. sevenx

    sevenx "I sat by the river" N.Mc

    Go to your dealer or local yak shop, there are anchor systems designed for yaks. Also check web sites for or hyde drift boats. The anchor system on these drift boat can be modified for yaks. Check with experts before rigging your own. The boats reaction to the anchoring is the most important part. If not rigged properly the boat may swing from side to side and can become dangerous in heavier current. Being a novice boater I suggest you err on the side of caution. Also make sure you always have a way to ditch the anchor if necessary. a boat moving thru current with a loose anchor can be bad news. I use the folding claw type my self and it work well, I have mounted the zig zag type of cleat to my frame. (i use a pontoon boat) this type of anchor does not require a not and can be easily undone. They will never slip. I have several mounted in key location for anchoring situations. I also have a small bouy attached to the line just in case. The cleat can be found at any boating store and are inexpsive, easy to mount and easy to use. A pulling system to allow the anchour to drop directly from the stern is crucial you can also mount the system to the bow of the boat for solid positioning one windy days on flat water. I would not recomend tandem achoring on moving water, twice as much chance for an accident. Good luck and be safe. S